LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume IX, Issue 20, 14 May 1892, Page 505

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

WINTER COSTUMES FOR LITTLE PEOPLE. ,BEK FASHION PLATE PAGE 503.) It is quite comforting to think that however foolish some of our modern fashions are, in ideas for children’s garments we have wonderfully improved. I shudder when I view my grandmother’s portrait in short sleeves and low dress — —not an evening costume, you know, but just an everyday form of cold catching raiment. Ugh ! Now a days, though we do coop children up in school-rooms so as to be able to boast of the liberal education we are bestowing on their minds, we can allow them to run out and play in the clear cold open air without fear of its injuring them. The little brains that have become heated in a warm school room have an opportunity to freshen up in the cool air, and the little bodies, because of the healthy play, grow better and stronger, and all because they are sensibly, as well as prettily, clothed. The picturesque element strongly obtains in cloaks and hats, and though the frocks are picture ones also, still it cannot be claimed that there is any special change in their styles ; wise mothers, having discovered a comfortable and pretty design, are clinging to it. In the illustration some very pretty styles are shown. The first is a charming little suit of white washing corduroy suitable for boys from three to six years old. Long loose coat, and full shirt of pale blue surah, with large collar and little ft ills of cream silk. The silk shirt would look equally well in flannel, and would certainly be far more serviceable for ordinary wear ; but for a special occasion the blue would be perfect, and would match any child’s complexion. Generally at this age colour need hardly be taken into account, unless, indeed, the hair is of a pronounced auburn tint, when it would be advisable to avoid any shade A thoroughly useful style of garment is that called No. 2. It is a boy’s Lancer suit in fawn homespun. Breeches confined at the knee with three buttons. Double breasted jacket, with broad belt. , . ' A child’s coat, cosy and comfortable for cold weather, is No. 3. The model is in fawn velvet, double breasted, beaver collar and cuffs. Three-cornered hat in felt to match the coat, and edged with beaver, and trimmed on one side with pompons and brush. The little exposed legs are well protected by drab gaiters, which are very fashionable indeed just now, and are exceedingly sensible, for stockings worn indoors in a warm room are not sufficient covering when the rest of the little body is enveloped in a warm coat and hat. , . j , The girl who is holding the child s hand (No. 4) is dressed in a coat of heavy cloth, made with the stylish double cape. The large buttons are of oxydised metal, and the collar and cuffs of Persian lamb. The very becoming hat is of beaver, to match, trimmed with a ruche of narrow velvet ribbon, bows of wide satin ribbon, and osprey. I must put in a word against the shoes in the sketch. They are a mistake, and should have been neat lace-up Balmorals, or pretty leather button boots. Very quaint and fashionable is the fifth figure. The dress is in Souris velveteen, made with full bodice and plain skirt. Chemisette and sleeves in pale pink Surah, with drawings and fancy ribbon.

THE FABRICS FANCIED. THE fabrics fancied are invariably wool, cashmere, camel’s hair, the rough fleecy stuffs or the soft wools peculiar to plaids being selected. For school dresses, dark blues, browns, deep crimsons, and bright scarlets in cashmere are pretty, and are colours that usually wear well. The plaids are most popular in the blue and green combinations, the bright red ones so fancied bv little English girls not having the same vogue here, possibly because our skies aie brighter and the brilliant colouring is not so badly needed to improve the weather. For little wrappers, intended to be worn when some nursery disorder has made of a merry maiden a little invalid, gaily striped flannels, buttoning all the way down the front, quite loose, and with a belt of the same material to hold them in shows how all the different times of life, the good and the bad, are alike catered to. EVERYDAY DRESS VGOWN that is to be worn every day and is suitable for either school or home, for sister who is eleven years old, and who can write real letters, is made with the skirt perfectly plain, gathered in around the waist and sewed on to the bodice which is also a plain one, the hooks that close it being invisible ; the collar is a deep turned over one of blue silk that matches the cashmere used for the little dress. A broad belt of blue silk folded over to look as if it were tucked, is laced in the centre in front, and reaches to the top of the gathers far up on the bodice, giving the desired short waisted look ; the sleeves are high and full, gathered in at the wrists and finished with cuffs of blue silk. If one did not care to have a silk belt, collar and cuffs, then they could be made of the same material as the gown, or if one wished them to be a little more elaborate the coarse Russian lace could overlay the collar and cuffs and a buckle fasten the belt. In making the belt, put that stiffening between the lining and the silk that is used .by tailors in making standing collars stand up, or straight cuffs straight. FOR A WEE MAIDEN. THE same dark cashmeres or stuffs are used for the gowns of the wee maidens as well as for the girls who are counted as large in nursery parlance. Golden-brown cashmere is particularly pretty for the small blonde people. Little gowns continue to be gathered or pleated in at the neck, and then they are permitted to fall loose at the back, and are only partially confined by a belt of ribbon or velvet in front. No frock could be more comfortable or more picturesque, and no frock could be more easily made at home. The little girdle forms the only decoration, except, indeed, broad collars and cuffs either of white embroidery or linen. I must describe a very pretty one. The real golden-brown cashmere is used for this, and the full skirt is gathered and fastened in at the neck to a yoke that is invisible. Far up

under the arms comes a narrow-pointed girdle of dark brown velvet drawn down in front and caught just in the centre under a velvet rosette. The sleeves are full and gathered at the top and at the wrist, and a deep square collar of coarse embroidery hides the yoke and is fastened in front under a velvet ribbon bow, the loops and ends of which are so stiffly placed that one feels like calling the wearer little Miss Prim. Deep cuffs matching the collar aie also worn, and form a pretty finish to the full sleeves. In blue, scarlet, any of the plaids, grey or mode, a little gown like this might be made. A small woman who is to keep the cold out this winter by means of a grey krimmer coat has a grey cashmere gown made after this fashion which she wears under it, but, of course, a light shade like this will need to have special attention, and little Miss Prim will have to be on her best behavioui when she wears it. THE WISE APRON. THE apron has always had for little people a prestige of its own. To put on a clean apron usually means that one is in good standing in the nursery, and that the freshening up of an afternoon is deemed desirable. The materials used for aprons nowadays are nainsook, lawn, cross-barred muslin and an unbleached linen that is supposed to be made in regulation pinafores to be worn when toys or books are being painted by young and very zealous artists. In their designs, the aprons are almost exactly like the frocks over which they are worn. A square or pointed yoke, with the skirt straight and full gathered into it, is often seen, and this may have either long, full sleeves, or simply a ruffle round the armhole, as is fancied. The broad sash to hold the fulness in is made of the same material as the apron, and has its edge finely hemmed by hand and so flattened out that it doesn’t curl up after it has visited the laundry. Aprons are very sensibly made quite plain ; the dressiest have a yoke of coarse embroidery or Russian lace, but the putting of innumerable frills or the decorating them with gay ribbons is not considered good taste. When a yoke apron is not selected, then the square-cut one, tying on the shoulders—a pattern that I am sure our grandmothers wore —is chosen. For the little woman who goes to school, and who is past wearing a yoke or a body apron, one that has a square skirt and a good sized bib is selected. It has a quaint housewifely air, and, as it is usually carried folded and assumed in the school-room with much precision, it not only tends to keep the gown clean, but teaches the value of caring for one’s belongings. THE LITTLE HANDKERCHIEFS. OF course they shed them as the roses do their leaves, and for that reason the little handkerchiefs want to be as simple as possible. Those shown in the shops are of plain white linen with a narrow hemstitched edge. Occasionally the Christian name is embroidered on them in red, pink or pale blue cotton ; this is done to avoid any discussion as to whose the handkerchief is, for if only the family name is upon it, it will be quite possible for the boys to claim it as their own, and so make very wretched the tidy little maiden who takes care of her things and who grieves over their disappearance * by those bad boys.’ To teach a child that her clothes are her own, that her handkerchiefs and her collars are hers individually, is to make a child careful. When she knows it is her very own she is apt to put the handkerchief back in her pocket and not risk throwing it on the floor, or laying it on a chair without a thought as to its future. The wise mother will, as soon as her little daughter is of sufficient age to understand, give up all of, or part of a drawer in the nursery to her, and will teach her that hair ribbons, handkerchiefs, the small fan that is hers, and her numerous belongings are to be put away there by herself until they are required. This is the way to not only teach a child to care for her clothes, but to be systematic in the disposal of them. Once the habit of tidiness is formed, it will only be natural for the child to adhere thereto. A child is never too young to be tidy, and if it only begins by hanging up its stockings at night be sure that in a very short time it will learn where the skirt belongs and where the other garments should be put. But don’t make tidiness and tyranny synonymous. Never, if you can help it, make a tear come in your little girl’s eyes about her clothes. Teach her their value, and teach her qnietly and gently how to take care of them. She will learn, and as for you, well, no matter what happens, when she goes from you you will not have to remember that for some little fault about her frocks you made her unhappy. Just think always how things will seem to you in the future, and I do believe that you and your neighbour and I will all act differently in the present. There is nobody quite so unhappy as the child who does not have a real childhood ; who isn’t saved from as many of the woes of this life as possible, and who isn’t given golden days while it is young. Make them as happy as you can, for you and I will never forgive ourselves if we don’t.