LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume IX, Issue 19, 7 May 1892, Page 481

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

iSKE FASHION PLATE PAGE 479.1 Despite the outcry against the use of birds in millinery decoration, there are still a great many employed for this purpose. In the large London warehouses it is” a touching sight to walk Iretween heaped-up rows of little dead birds which have been slain for the decoration of sensitive and gentle ladies’ chapeaux. Some of the prettiest humming birds are caught just when they are building their nests and singing love songs to their mates. The plumage is brighter then than at other times, the little fellows having put on their best clothes to go a courting. Alas ! they are skinned alive to preserve the brilliancy of the hue. Think of this, fair dames, and wonder how you can have the heartlessness to buy more innocent birdies. If there were no demand for them there would be none killed.

The first sketch is an English style of hat in black felt trimmed with black and navy blue birds, a black and gold twisted cord forms a pretty edging (most of the hats are bound with something this season). A dainty little bow of black velvet at the back, ami velvet strings tying under the chin complete this chapeau, which really partakes as much of the nature of a bonnet as of a hat.

The other vignette is a real bonnet, and a very pretty one too. It is composed of tomato-red shaded ribbon with jet beads on it, and edged with black velvet, which again forms the strings. The bonnet is cut slightly up the centre at the back, permitting the new style of waves of rolled hair to be well seen.

The central figure is a most useful tea gown, one in which no lady can possibly experience any sense of dishabille. It is made of navy poplin, gathered at the neck with a band, and secured at the waist by a sash of the same colour, which falls in long ends to the feet in front, where it is finished off with fringe. The latter trimming is quietly creeping into fashion again. A touch of bright brocade on the bodice and round the cuffs affords the relief in colouring, deemed so necessary by artistic dresses. The gown is a la princesse behind, a style which threatens to sweep away the Newmarket make of bodice. A slight train adds grace to what is essentially a house dress. Chiffon lace at the wrists gives a soft and pretty look to the hand over which it falls.

The other costume and the large hat are entirely French. The wide brim standing ofl' from the face is not yet introduced with the English fashion plates, but appears in many Parisian ones. Tastefully arranged ruby tips stand up at the back, and also arid the height which has lately been so conspicuous by its absence in the fashionable hat. The dress itself is very handsome. Ruby velvet of a new shade, which is hardly Bordeaux, and is certainly not tomato red ; is the principal ingredient in its composition. But rich brocade on the waist and tight cuffs play an important part in this combination of lovely things, and black feather trimmings arranged as indicated in the illustration affords another break in the monotony of colour. The skirt fits very closely in front and over the hips, falling into large folds at the back. There is a suspicion of an underskirt of a lighter colour in silk just visible at the foot, which hints that were this warm walking costume removed a pretty, tight-fitting robe of silk for house wear would be The third dress is sheath like as regards the front and side breadths, not a crease nor a fold detracting from its trying accuracy of fit. There is here again a glimpse, though rather a longer one, of an underskirt of a contrasting colour, trimmed with the beautifully embroidered material which can now be obtained with so many dress goods. The bodice is intersected with velvet, which is cut away on the hips and forms the objectionable coat-tails behind. The sleeves are very new, and most difficult to arrange except a thoroughly competent dressmaker takes them in hand. But the melon eflect is very good. The cuffs are also a distinct improvement on the usual plain band. This, like the other, is a French idea.