SUMMER DRESS HINTS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume VIII, Issue 42, 17 October 1891, Page 495

SUMMER DRESS HINTS.

THE lace costume has taken the place that used to belong to the coarse, square-meshed grenadine that a great many years ago was known as the ‘iron frame,’and which could not be comprehended for its beauty, but only for its air of quiet refinement. The grenadine gradually grew finer and finer, until one day the ‘ piece lace ’appeared, and since then a black lace gown is counted one of the desirables in the wardrobe of the general woman. The lace best liked is the Chantilly, with a small figure thickly scattered over it, or else in a full, deep flounce. Spanish lace, notwithstanding its great beauty, is rather heavy looking, a fault which is also found with guipure ; but the Chantilly and the light French laces are not only lighter to wear, but have a cooler look. Then, too, they retain their blackness better, a something much to be desired. A lace-trimmed gown. ALIGHT wood shade in surah silk makes a lovely foundation for a deep lace flounce. The skirt is made almost plain in front, and is just full enough to be graceful at the back. A deep lace flounce is all round the lower edge, its sewing to position being concealed by a narrow, black silk braid. The bodice is smoothly fitted across the back, and laid in soft folds just in front, concealing the closing. The sleeves are sufficiently full to be easy and are the real Valois ones, coming in a decided point over the hand. The girdle, which conceals the skirt band, is of the silk folded over and having a stiff little bow that conceals the fastening at the side. The chic air given the bodice comes from the black lace cape which is worn with it, and which is gathered round the neck, the stitching concealed by a ribbon which ties in front. A little quilling of lace finishes the neck. the jetted girdle. SOMEBODY who has followed the fashions and made a plain full skirt of deep lace flouncing, intends that her bodice shall be decorated with jet, and made the special part of the costume. So she has to decide whether it shall be a long bodice with a Cleopatra girdle, or a round one with a deep pointed girdle, and she chooses the last because she does not believe she will tire of it so soon. The typical lace bodice is decorated with jet. Over the usual close-fitting lining the lace is drawn in soft, fine folds, both back and front, the closing which is in front being hidden under the full lace. The girdle is of black velvet, deeply pointed both in back and front, and closing with hooks and eyes at one side. It is thickly covered with finely cut jets that sparkle like so many black diamonds. A somewhat high collar that rounds down in front, permitting the throat to show between, is also of velvet, overlaid with the jet, as are the deep cuffs that form the finish to the full gathered sleeves. A BODICE like this could be worn with merely a ribbon girdle, the collar might be a pleated one of ribbon, and the cuffs of ribbon to correspond ; but of course the same elaborate air would not be gained that results from the use of the jetted garnitures. The girl who has the time and the inclination to be economical, can buy the jets and make gorgeous her own belt and belongings, making it cost her in this way just about one-third of what the price would be if she bought it ready made. For people who have time there are so many ways of economising, that it does seem a shame that every woman under one hundred years old does not look well dressed. I WANT to say one little word here about your laces and furbelows. Keep them in the best possible condition, don’t let a tiny little hole grow into a long tear, anti don’t believe that the dust can’t be brushed out of lace, if care is taken, as well as out of any other material. A lace gown, of course, needs to be treated a little more delicately than does a heavy cloth one, but, like the cloth, it shows whether it is getting the right sort of treatment or not. When you mend your lace, get a piece of thin net like its background and do not carefully darn but etch with your needle firmly and strongly, so that the patch is sure in its position and yet the stitches are not conspicuous. With

care, a lace gown may last many seasons, and after that it may be used for frills bonnets, parasol trimmings, and no end of small furbelows. It may, indeed, be the material to work out the economies over which you and I take so much delight, and which are, after all, our greatest pride. To make something pretty out of materials called * nothings' is great joy.