PARIS TEA-COWNS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume VI, Issue 26, 28 June 1890, Page 14

PARIS TEA-COWNS.

Description of Pi.ate No. I. (See fashion Plate.) OUR artist has sketched three of the loveliest Paris tea gowns which it is possible to imagine or describe. They are. one ami all. most novel ami original in arrangement, beautiful in colour ami exceedingly artistic in design. No. 1 is made in a most delicate shade of pale eau dr nil cashmere, elalsnately and lieautifully embroidered with flowers in silk and chenille, the colours employed being

chiefly gold and |>ale green. Here and there some glittering lieads, in shades of gold and bronze, are introduced to brighten the general effect. This embroidery ornaments the front of the cachemire draperies as well as the long wing-shaped sleeves. The vest and the underskirt are of run dr nil satin, marie with horizontal tucks ami an insertion of silk open-work. At the waist there is a knotted girdle. The under-sleeves are made of eau de nil satin, very fully puffed, ami finished with tucksand open-work to correspond with the front of the skirt. The back of this gown is of ran dr nd cashmere, trimmed with floral embroidery, and arranged to o|>en down the centre of the back, leaving visible full folds and pleats of pale eau de nil silk, gracefully arranged to form a kind of train. No. 2 is a very beautiful gown of palest yellow erepe de chine, most delicately and lieautifully embroidered with groups of cornflowers and foliage in chenille, brightened by threads of narrow metal cord. Some of the flowers are of the real cornflower blue, while some are yellow, and others, again, pale pink. In every case thecoloursare most delicate and dainty. This embroidery outlines the crepe de chine Figaro jacket, and borders the drapery, which is opened slightly on one side over a pleated petticoat of pale yellowsilk. The bodice has a vest of yellow silk to corres|M»nd, the under sleeves being of the same fabric, while the long outer sleeves are of cashmere, liordered with embroidery. No. 3 is an exceedingly handsome tea-gown of old-rose brocade, with a beautiful design, composed of clusters of white lilac, set in pale green foliage. These draperies of brocade are bordered throughout with a soft trimming of marabout, in a mixture of pale pink and pale green. The high Medici collar of brocade is bordered with marabout to correspond, and lined with folds of ci earn lace. The whole of the front of this lieautiful tea-gown is of pale pink silk, veiled wita fine cream lace, the latter being held in place at the waist by a wide sash of soft pink silk, with fringed-out ends. The maralront trimming borders the fiont draperies of brocarle on either side, the whole effect of colour Ireing simply perfect.

Description oe Plate: No. 11. (See Fashion Plate. ) These are all of special interest this week from the faet that all of them were recently shown at the Paris Exhibition. The riding-habit (1) is made of the new elastic habit cloths in a very dark shade of bine. The Isxlice is cut in unite a novel fashion, with a continued vest of cream flannel checked with grey. The bodice can either button across this in the centre, or remain open all the way down, at the wish of the wearer. The skirt is cut on a patent safety principle, and fastener! up very ingeniously on one side, so that it can be worn when walking with as much comfort as when on horseback. The deer stalking costume (2) is made in a strong striped tweed, in a mixture of brown and white. The plain full skirt is very slightly draped on the hips, and arranged on either side with large square pockets. Near the hem it is ornamented with several rows of tine stitching. The Itodice is made in the Norfolk jacket shape, with thiee pleats track and front, and a waist-belt of brown leather. The hat is of the same doth as that of which the gown is made. The smart little driving or coaching coat (3>, was greatly admired at the Exhibition for its perfection of cut, and the neatness with which every small detail was finished. The coat is made in pale tan-coloured box doth, and is cut in a double-breasted shape with strapped seams. The large mother-of-pearl buttons are works of art in themselves, each being very finely engraved with a hoise-shoe, a whip, and other sporting designs. 33 ith this coat a low-crowned felt hat should be worn. The last sketch (4> represents a veiy smart gown in one of the tartan designs now so fashionable. The skirt is cut in a severely simple fashion, the draperies being held together on the hips by two large buttons. The bodice is cut in a jacket-shape and made to fasten over on one side. It is made with a turndown collar and left sightly open to show a tight-fitting vest beneath. The pretty felt hat is trimmed with shaded moire ribbons, repeating' the colours of the gown. The recent sharp touch of frost must have led some of us to feel that our ordinary headgear of ribbon and straw forms but a very insufficient protection against the cold. In Ironnets which should be comfortably warm and yet not dowdy-looking, I found to my great delight exactly the sort Iw as seeking. The crown is of drawn velvet, lined and quilter! with silk, soft to tire head and very light in weight. The front is formed of frills of ribbon with a pinked out ruche-like edge, which w ill be found very becoming to the face, and which is furthermore softened by bows of ribbon to match. In my opinion everyone should have one of these soft, warm bonnets for wearing during the very cold weather. Another pretty w inter bonnet had a fully pleated front of crimson velvet, and above that a box-pleated crown of brown velvet. At the sides were flat wings, shading from red to brow n. I was also very much pleased with a dainty little bonnet, having a crown of beaver velvet, drajted at the sides with an embroidery in cream and gold, and trimmed at the back with an upright bow of cream velvet lying along the crown, and strings of cream velvet to correspond.

Three pretty hats are well worth description, line was a black felt Spanish bolero turban, with a deep close-iitting brim, covered with velvet, and a low crown draped with folds of velvet, and trimmed on one side with large black silk pompoms, and loops of black silk cord. Another was a wide-brimmed hat of blown cloth, very light in weight, and tastefully trimmed on one side of the low crown with bows of riblsin and dusters of brown ostrich feathers, the whole effect of which was very picturesque. The third hat was a

pretty tooue with a sharply pointed brim in front, covered with black passementerie. The crown was of scarlet velvet, very tastefully arranged, and ornamented with a large bin! of black plumage.