At the Catlins

Kai Tiaki : the journal of the nurses of New Zealand, Volume X, Issue 3, 1 July 1917, Page 157

At the Catlins

I had often heard of Kaka Point and the Nuggets, but after a fortnight's delightful rest there this year I wanted to let other nurses know what a charming place it is. I first visited the Catlins the Easter before, spending a short time at Jack's Bay, some miles from Pourawea, from which charming spot the journey itself was quite an adventure. That beach was ideal, and the far-famed blow hole I shall never forget, with the angry sea (we chose a stormy day) rushing in and raging and dashing round that seething cauldron, and hurling themselves far up the precipitous bush-grown sides of that extraordinary place. Kaka Point, however, has the advantage of being much more accessible. The drive from Romahapa isn't very long, and is a splendid cure for liver trouble. I knew there were several boarding houses, and that my sister had arranged for us to go to Campbell's that was all. The first we passed, right on the road, just before one came down to the beach — Henderson's I think — didn't inspire me with any desire for its hospitality, especially when we heard that their trap had landed its occupants suddenly at the side of the road— or down a bank — and there wasn't even a fire alight or a drop of hot water for the poor sufferers all night ! McGuffick's is right on the beach, and serves as post office store, and their many patrons seemed comfortable enough. We however, wanted to obtain a quieter resting spot, so we drove some two miles further on right on the sand, a rush through the waves at times, till we reached the Campbell's home, half a mile from another boarding house, famous for all time for the wedding of Amy Bock. From there we visited the lighthouse, and I did enjoy climbing far out on the rocks below pt 7 especially as the sea was rough and the

wind strong. Then, too, we could run down in two minutes before breakfast or any time and bathe. The Catlins' beaches are lonely for bathing ; one can go so far out. There is a very long sandy stretch at the Point, but, of course, Toketa beach (where we were) was much less frequented, though there were frequently motors and fish carts going up and down. There was certainly no lack of interest. Half an hour's walk towards the lighthouse and one could watch the boats coming in with their loads of fish, and I'll never forget one — I'd better not name the variety, iu case anyone never wants to eat it again — fish that was found on examination to be digesting a large sole (whole) and a big cod's head. The boats contain quite an assortment, from sharks to blue-cod — any amount of that ugly thing. And one old man did nothing but cut up the gropers' throats as the men threw away the heads. They are a delicacy, and the only part of the groper the fishermen will eat. Then the birds, I never tired of watching them. They reminded me of the way the penguins played in the Antarctic pictures I've seen, and how human they were. They sieze a piece of fish almost as big as themselves, and fly off swallowing it as they go, with others less fortunate in full pursuit. You can see their throats distending to let it down, and they don't seem to have any digestive troubles either. My chief delight was rambling in the bush. I don't know the New Zealand bush as a native ought to, but I ju^-t love it. The Catlin's ratas are far-famed and most interesting, and wherever you penetrate the bush is so absolutely alive with interest. Our bush lives a life all its own, and one longs to understand its language and learn its secrets. There was one very horrid tree in that bush, the carmihi (?) ; really I hated it, its the blood-sucker of the bush. You'll

almost surely find its hollow old trunk concealing the decaying remains of a pine or some other better citizen than itself. It simply spreads itself around till the unfortunate victim is encircled, and the result is the most curious formations of the lower parts of the tree. Sometimes they seem to start up in mid-air and grow downwards. We loved to take the billy and have afternoon tea in the bush. You see they don't provide afternoon tea at these places now — though we were very kindly given anything we required to take, so its well to have a private supply of cake, etc. There was a most beautiful garden about halfway bei ween us and the point, the pride of its fine old owner, whose hobby it was, and admired by hundreds and hundreds of visitors in the summer. It was just ablaze with many coloured flowers — the sweet peas

were magnificent. I have the sweetest picture of them, showing the sea in the distance. My sister was fond of sketching and got quite a number of very pretty little pictures there and on the beach. Its quite a good place for anyone who is fond of painting, though it's well to be provided with a good sandfly lotion or eucalyptus if sitting our of doors. So altogether you see one can have quite a good time at Tokera (or Kakei Point). We had plenty of good food (though sometimes we did long for more fresh vegetables, which could have grown in pro fusion) ; and the bread did get stale ; moreover, there was no excuse for having a bad appetite, and every inducement to sleep. I know I enjoyed my holiday there, and I write hoping other nurses may do the asme.