Holiday Rambles of a New Zealand Nurse

Kai Tiaki : the journal of the nurses of New Zealand, Volume II, Issue 1, 1 January 1909, Page 25

Holiday Rambles of a New Zealand Nurse

(Continued from October)

We arrived at Aden, a bare, dismal, rock}' place ; several houses and a militan- station. Arabs came on board selling oranges, ostrich eggs and feathers — such a babel of tonpues. Several Arabs asked for a drink of water, they would give an ostrich feather for a glass of cold water. Aden is a terrible place, the heat is intense. It only rains about once m two years. The water supply is collected m huge concrete tanks m the steep locky hills, very heavy dews fall at night and it trickles down into the tanks, water is also condensed from sea-water and is brought by camels from a great distance. There are no flowers or trees except what are grown and watered m pots. No one can live more than eighteen months or two years at Aden without going insane on account of the heat. One young soldier described it as " only a sheet of brown paper between Aden and Hades." A British man-of-war is leaving for home to-day, after having been stationed here for twenty years. We only waited at Aden long enough to coal. All the land we have seen of the African and Arabian coast is bare and rocky, not a tree like lovely Colombo. We are travelling through the Red Sea as quickly as possible — they say the worst heat will be over to-day, and m sixteen days we shall be m England. We passed three steamers this morning, and last night one large liner, like Kipling describes it " Some liner's lights at sea, like a grand hotel ," and so it was a grand and beautiful sight, and cheering to see — to know we were not alone on the water. At Suez there are houses down to the water's edge. As we enter the canal it is pretty m places, with little clumps of trees and grass, cable stations, and dry desert on the Arabian side. Here and there a camel trotting along with a load, or a rider, one man on horseback and some Egyptian boys running along. Buoys, painted red and white, are each side of the canal, which is very narrow m parts, only room for one vessel to pass. There are several lakes, salt and bitter, and m places we can pass other small craft. Port Said was reached at 12 p.m. We coaled at once (this was done by women),

and took several passengers on from Egypt. As it was night we could not go ashore. The Mediteranean looks muddy and rough. We reached Marseilles m the morning and went ashore. Marseilles is very cßrty around the docks, but improved after half a mile. We met several French women and girls, who walk about without their hats, that is the grisettes, or lower class. There are some very fine large buildings with long windows — French windows as we call them — and large bazaars. Beautiful large trees along the pavement, and numbers of nursemaids walking out with their little charges, beautifully dressed babies. The maids were all neatly dressed, and wore little caps with very wide ribbons at the back, almost touching the ground. We were delighted to see the flowers m the stalls — English flowers — roses and forget-me-nots, cherries ripe and red. One of our party bought some roses, and the girl selling said " I cannot take Englesse money," so a lady with us, who lived at one time m France, changed some of ours for theirs. We saw a flock of sheep with horns and long tails, short wool like merinos, brown patches of wool around the horns. The carthorses looked well, the harness is not like ours ; collar high, with a horn at the top, and shoes wider and turned up m front, m hot weather they wear straw hats. Some of the party visited the Notre Dame, a very fine, imposing building on top of a hill, with very elaborate ornamental work about it. We left port that evening for Gibraltar, passed near the Iyipari Islands. At eleven o'clock we were called up to see Stromboli m eruption. First showed a red glow, which then blazed up and the lava poured down the side of the mountain. At Gibraltar, owing to quarantine regulations, we were not allowed to go ashore, as we have several Bombay passengers on board. We lay out a short distance from the wharf, and business was done, and passengers embarked by means of boats. Several vessels are lying m harbour — a very nice bay. " Gib." as the residents call it, is built on a high rock and surrounding cliffs— a great British naval and military centre.

Eight thousand soldiers and 2,000 sailors are living m the barracks, and at 6 p.m. every night a huge gun is fired and the gates are closed, no one is allowed inside or out after then. Zig-zag roads lead up to the top of the rock, old buildings, castles and churches are visible, and trains and roads lead into the surrounding country, which is green, with pretty low hills — good fox-hunting country the residents (mostly English) say. The climate is mild and healthy, several of the passengers who came on were English, who had gone to Gibralter to avoid the winter m England. The Moors and other traders came to sell goods, lace, shawls, buckles, fruit, oranges, loquats, strawberries, flowers and tobacco, cigars. The money was put m a basket and lowered down the side of the boat, then the dealers sent up whatever was bought the same way. Two of our passengers are Moors from Tangiers, m native costume, and wear stockings and basket shoes ; they are married men, as the unmarried ones are not allowed to wear shoes and stockings. Going through the Straits of Gibralter we met vessels of every description. As we steamed close along the Portuguese coast we passed a fleet of little fishing boats, and saw several towns and ploughed fields not unlike our N.Z. coast. The country appears fertile, green hills wooded at the back. A castle showed up prominently on top of the highest hill. We are nearing the English Channel. A large man-of-war is coming across towards us, one of the largest m the British navy, with four funnels — evidently going to Plymouth. Passing the Eddystone lighthouse we can get glimpses of the land — pretty green hills and woods, here and there a castle or a lighthouse, and a little village m Cornwall. Plymouth at last ! A few passengers were landed. From the deck we had an excellent view of Plymouth Hoe, where Sir Francis Drake finished his game of bowls before going out to fight the Spanish Armada. Plymouth is a large town, strong fortifications, large stone walls, castles, and stone houses. Several warships are lying m the bay. At last we had arrived m England! The Old Country whose history has been familiar from our earliest schooldays. It is the first summer month m England, ar.d QM vivid greenness of the grass is most striking after so many weeks on the water with its varying shades. I was staying at Brockley, about eight miles from the City ; but, as the Yankee said,

' London is a pretty considerable large village," and as my friends told me, ten years ago that part of the town (quite close to Brockley railway station) was a farm, and all green fields ; also that they were building houses at the rate of 100 a month — 1,200 a year — doing away with many of the slums m the East End, and planting trees and good parks on all the available space. I do not think there are many poor children m I v ondon who cannot play m a park, or who have not seen a tree, as they say of Birmingham. The police are very superior men, and regulate the traffic wonderfully m the crowded streets of the City, also are constantly on guard at night for watching neglected children, and usually find them some shelter. Begging is not allowed by the police ; a person takes a license, and can sell matches, buttons, or any small article m the street, instead of begging. I stayed three weeks at Brockley, and roamed about every day ; visiting some old historical place. We saw St. Pauls', and Westminster Abbey, The Tower of Ivondon, Alexandra Palace, The Guildhall, British Museum, Crystal Palace, and travelled by the Twopenny Tube to see Kew Gardens which are very beautiful. We were informed no one was admitted if they did not appear respectable, but we evidently passed the test ; half a day is not long enough to see the beauties of the gardens. The orchids are beautiful — strange and peculiar flowers. The lake was filled with water-birds of various kinds, and numbers of seagulls. I called to see an Australian muse who was a sister at St. Thomas' Hospital, who showed me through the beautiful wards, everything seemed so pure white and clean. Operations all aseptic, only boiled water used. One wee baby was lying on a table m the women's ward, its mother was ill, and they did not separate them, it was crowing and laughing ; two nurses were sewing for the ward at the table, and the baby's mother looked quite contented. Several of the patients were on the balcony, wheeled out m their beds ; they had a good view of the river and passing boats. We also went by train to other parts of London : Balham, Wood Green, Bayswater, and to Ivewisham, Bexley, Sevenoaks, Gravesend and several other parts of Kent. The whole country was beautifully cultivated. We saw some green woods, white chalk hills, and shady lanes which we drove through — -very narrow, and trees meeting overhead. There was an

exhibition of Spanish pictures at the Guildhall, and a concert of a thousand children's voices at the Crystal Palace the day we were there. I received a note from an old friend, Nurse Barclay (Sister Agnes), a former sister of the Wellington Hospital, who was with a convalescent patient m Edgware Rd. We met at the Marble Arch, and she accompanied me through Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. We saw the troops at drill opposite St. George's Hospital ; had lunch at Edgware Rd., and visited Garroulds. Afterward I stayed at the Nurses' Hostel, Francis Street, Miss C. J. Wood was matron, and Miss Paul secretary. Miss Wood seems very observant, for there were quite 60 nurses at the Hostel, several of whom weie up for their L.O.S. exams., and Miss Wood seemed to notice at once if any were missing. It wa,s very lively staying with so many, and the twilight was so long — quite light till ten p.m., and even at eleven it was light, as the street lights were so brilliant that several nights when I was out it was almost eleven before I returned ; Miss Paul punctually turned the lights out then. I was shown through St. Bartholomew's Hospital, by a doctor whom I met m Devonshire some months after. St. Bartholomew's is one of the oldest hospitals m England and, as the nurses say " old fashioned, but comfortable." Some beautiful old pictures by Rubens adorned the staircase and ceiling of the hall. My guide showed me the museum, and said if I wished to see through it, it would take about three years. I cannot spare space to describe details, but on leaving '- Barts' " I saw some familiar names on buildings, such as " Blue-coat Boys' School," and " Arnold's Surgical Instruments." I also went to see two cousins, both nurses, at Tooting Park, and an old friend from New Zealand who is now living at Balham, and whose little children were at school there. One day these little girls were talking Maori, and an English child said, ' Why do you talk that gibberish ?" " Well, that's the language spoken m our country," said the other. " How did you learn English then ?" "Oh ! we learnt it on the ship on our way over," said the Maorilander. The grounds surrounding the Crystal Palace are extensive and beautifully laid out with trees and shrubs ; large rhododendrons m bloom, and magnificent copper beeches. We visited Co vent Garden, a huge market for vegetables, fruit and flowers to supply

London, many of which are grown m Kent. While staying at Weybridge, a pretty place on the Wey m Surrey, we visited Oatlands Park, a former home of the Dukes of York. A large grotto was built for the Duchess of York, of white crystal stone, brought from all parts of the world. This grotto was m the centre of the park on a natural terrace, and was built by two men, who took twenty years to build it, at a cost of £40,000 — it was the size of an ordinary house ; contained an armour room, card room, reception room, bath room with an enormous square bath. In the card room the Duke of York (probably James II.) gambled a fortune and his whole estate away m one night. An old chair with tapestry hanging over it worked by the Duchess, stood m the bath room. From one of the windows was seen along a path a number (100 or more) of little white tombstones, the graves of pets : dogs, cats, and monk--ys belonging to the Duchess. Among the beautiful trees m the park were two cedars of Lebanon, planted by Prince Henry of Orleans (Charles ll. 's youngest son) when a lad. They are most lovely trees. The mansion is used as a private hotel, and the park as a show place. There were numbers of horses' skulls m the grotto, one belonging to the first horse that won the Derby— so our guide told vs — and one path was paved with horses' teeth. One day we drove ten miles among the lovely Surrey hills, and picniced there. We saw plenty of primrose and violet plants, but too late for the flowers. After three weeks m London I went to the North of England for a few weeks. Left London at 10 a.m. by express from Kings Cross, distance 300 miles, fare 25s return, time, four hours. We stopped at Peterborough, York, and Durham. A friend met us at Newcastle, and we left m a short time for South Shields. On the way from London we noticed several old castles, built on the hills, and passed some wild moorland m Yorkshire. South Shields is on the Tyne, about 100,000 inhabitants, it has a lovely Park at Tynmouth, well laid out, tennis lawns, bowling greens, aviary full of birds, band rotunda, lakes with little islands covered with grass and shrubs, a beautiful memorial statue — with a clock, to be seen everywhere m the park, four faces ; it was built m memory of the two men who invented and built the first lifeboat. The old lifeboat is there also, fenced around, and a covered top. It was instrumental m saving

1,028 lives during the storms and wrecks before the pier was built. The South Shields pier is near the park. The sand? m summer time are covered with children 'paddling and bathing the'fsurf, they come from the inland towns and spend the day. The pier is a mile long and a grand parade m the lovely long evenings. A lighthouse at the end, we went m one evening and watched the workings of it ; the lights shine through coloured glass, revolving all the time. Most of my time I spent upon the river as both my cousins are connected with the shipping. We used two of the launches ; one the Lynx, belonging to the Tyne Commissioners, and the other the Duck, my cousin used every day from Shields to Newcastle. One day we took the former little steamer and went for a river picnic as far as it was safe to take the boat, and on returning we went some distance m the North Sea along the coast of Northumberland. We saw the shipbuilding m all stages, and one large vessel launched, ready for trading between Norway and Tynemouth. We also saw the steamer used by Queen Alexandra as a hospital ship at the South African war, she is now called the Midnight Sun, and sails between Norwegian ports and England. Every year there are about 64 ships built on the Tyne. It is a beautiful river, and very busy, at the mouth at low tide it is always twelve feet deep, and the Commissioners employ numbers of dredges to deepen it. One day the men at work blasted a rock m the river, killing a large salmon — they divided it between their three families. Another day we spent m Jesmond Dene, Newcastle, a lovely park, presented by Sir William Armstrong, the gun manufacturer, to the people of Newcastle. There are some of the largest trees m England there — about 200 acres of park, some of which is m a rough state of nature, and some cultivated ; several playgrounds for children. It is kept m order by the Municipal authorities ; they use it for banquets and any entertainments they wish to give, m a large hall for the purpose. One night we went to a concert over the river at Tynemouth, a.t the Aquarium Palace, and other evenings we strolled along the cliffs over the fields for miles, and never thought of going m till 10.30 or 11, as it was daylight till then. Another morning, very early, we went to see the fish market. The trawlers had just come m and the fish were m. barrows being sold by auction very cheap-

ly. Some were sent off to the London market at once. Three old fisherwomen were sitting on the wharf with several very large fish before them. " What are those " I asked, " A shilling each, my dear ! will you have one " said the old lady. They were codfish. After three weeks at Shields I returned to London, stayed one night at a private hotel m Great Portland Street, where several nurses stay when the hostel is overflowing, and next day left Waterloo Station for Exeter m Devonshire. The Cathedral is the prettiest I saw m England but had been very much knocked about by Oliver Cromwell, whose men knocked off the heads and arms of some of the figures outside, and used the inside for a stable. I stayed several weeks m Exmouth with two dear old ladies and their niece, who took me about Devonshire. We drove, rowed m the bay, and picniced on the beach. Twice we went to Torquay, and once the fleet was m Torbay. It was an imposing sight. The Devonshire scenery is very beautiful and very varied. One day we went by train to Lydford Gorge, some 30 miles from Okehampton, and walked through the lovely little gorge about two miles m length, and through the village, and visited the district nurse m her lodgings, she rides a horse as some of the country is rather rough. There were very good fresh-water swimming baths at Okehampton. A very sad incident happened on the moor during our visit. A man walking over the moor found an unexploded lyddite shell and told one of the troopers. Next day, a sergeant of police accompanied by another young police officer and the man who found it, went to bring it home, and that is the last seen of them alive ; m some manner it exploded and they were all blown to atoms. After a very happy time at Dartmoor we returned to Exmouth. There are some very old and pretty churches near Exmouth : Littleham Church, where (Trafalgar) Nelson's wife is buried ; and another old church m a wood " St. Johns* m the Wilderness/ * it is never used now except to read the burial service occasionally. The date of founding the fount is 911 — nearly 160 years before the Conqueror — it is overgrown with ivy, and the old oak beams m the belfry are worn out. All inscriptions on the grave-stones are m Latin. We went by train to Torquay and walked to Marldon, a distance of three miles, through some of the

sweetest 'Devonshire lanes, and around curves and over hills and valleys until we reached Love Lane Farm, where my friend and I stayed for ten days. I had wished to see a real old English farm, and this was an old-fashioned manor house : a trim awn m front with a la*rge mulberry tree m the middle, and roses and other shurbs around. An old apple orchard, and tiny fields, with hedges full of nuts. We hunted for eggs m the barn, gathered nuts, went out with a little boy rabbiting with a ferret, fed the cows with linseed cake m the barnstalls. We went to see Compton Castle, an old home of Sir Walter Raleigh's, and the ancient village. Another beautiful old castle " Berry Pomeroy," we walked across the fields to see, through a lovely wood and park, not far from Totnes. After about nine weeks m Devon I went to Birmingham for a few days. Birmingham is a very large manufacturing city, and well worth seeing ; on the way we could smell the cocoa works of Messrs Cadbury, but unfortunately I did not stay long enough to see their model village or works, etc. After four days I resumed my journey to Carlisle ; passed through the Black Country, the coal mining district of Birmingham. The grass, trees, sheep, and men were black ; huge canals with coal barges were being towed along to be either sent off by train, or be otherwise distributed through the country. The West of England country appears more rugged and rough than the other coast. I stayed m Carlisle for a fortnight ; a very clean old town with a beautiful cathedral, castle, and other picturesque buildings. I went by train to Blaithwaite, an old family home near Leegate ; had it been a day sooner I should have seen a real fox hunt, the hounds chased the fox through the court-yard at the back of the house. Miss Parkin is Master of the Aspatria hounds, and was out hunting at the time I arrived. The horses (hunters) are fine strong beasts ; an improvement on our weak little horses m this country (the riding ha,cks). — I saw the Scotch hills m the distance ; the Solway, on which is my people's ancestral home, and gathered bunches of blue-bells, real Scotch ones and heather. England is beautiful m summer with its sweet wild flowers — woods, lanes, and pretty green .hills, 'and* fields and^prettyjeountry houses covered Jwith creepers, but^the fogs are far from pleasant, we had several foggy

days at the beginning of November — thick yellow ones, and had to remain inside the house for several days, so I missed many places such as Dr. Barnardo's Homes and other hospitals, wlrch I regretted afterwards. By-the-way ! We saw a number of Boerwar curios at the Crystal Palace. A military baloon, one of Mr. Kruger's hats, and his pipe, and signature on a paper. While m London I called on Mr. Ruos Martin, an ex-Wellingtonian, he was very busy, and said, " What with the fogs and vaccination, and 60 years of age, there was not much peace." Small -pox was very prevalent m some quarters of London. Leaving England (14th November). We had terrible gales m England, and several small craft were wrecked on the coast on the 12th and 13th, but the day we left it was calm but bitterly cold. We had a good trip all through, s.s. Rome (P. and O.), and some nice passengers ; on the whole I enjoyed the voyage home much better than the one going to England. We were able to see the coast of Italy quite plainly returning — Mount Etna and Stromboli by daylight. Port Said we also saw on the return and walked through the streets, into the markets and Mosque — a party of us, as it was not safe to go alone. A woman was making scones and blowing into them to make them swell ; they seemed very dirty. All the refuse was thrown into the streets. The buildings near the water were cleanly kept. All nations of the earth are found there. After arriving at Sydney I stayed there for over two months. I went through Sydney Hospital, which was making building alterations ; it seemed a very bare building. I was sorry I did not see the Prince Alfred, I spent a day at the Art Gallery, which contains some lovely pictures ; and the Botanical Gardens. We went to the Blue Mountains and stayed at Wentworth and Lawson, and saw several falls ; the bush and cliffs are very cool and attractive m the hot summer weather. It was dry weather, but only one or two really oppressive days. Sydney is a good place for a holiday ; there is so much to see, and it does not cost much more than going to the north or south of our own Island. Holidays are over, and work must commence again, but the little trip is something pleasant to remember for the rest of one's life. — Erin (Nurse E. Bennett.)