The Waitakere Ranges

Forest and Bird, Issue 104, 1 May 1952, Page 6

The Waitakere Ranges

AUCKLAND’S MOUNTAIN PLAYGROUND

By

GEO. M. FOWLDS

HTHE advent of the last war prevented. the carrying out of many schemes to mark New Zealand’s first century in 1940, but Auckland is in a fair way of completing its original plan. This was to create a mountain park in the Waitakere Ranges, by expending £15,000 to secure as much forest land as could be had, and to date over 9,000 acres have been reserved. Under a special Act of Parliament, a Board was constituted consisting principally of representatives of the city and most of the suburban local bodies. Revenue is obtained from a levy on the supporting local bodies, and it is hoped to purchase a further 9,000 acres of land.

Behind the blue ridge of hills on the western horizon, lying twelve to sixteen miles from the city, Auckland has a remarkable region. “Magnificent”, was the remark of Sir A. W. Hill, Director of Kew Gardens, London, when he stood on the top of Pukematekeo, at the northern end of the Ranges, overlooking the Cascade Kauri Forest. Altogether, here is an upland area roughly twenty miles long by six to ten miles wide, bounded by the Manukau Harbour and the West Coast, which is rapidly becoming a popular recreation reserve. Now that the main highways are metalled, thousands of motorists and others are venturing through the hills and coming to appreciate the varied wonders of this playground.

Rushing Waters

In this miniature mountain country, with ridges and peaks rising up to 1,500 feet high,

are undulating plateaux and deep gorges, forest and fern-clad, with plunging waterfalls and placid streams. The name Waitakere means “rushing waters” and all over the ranges are places bearing the expressive descriptions attached by the old-time Maoris. Scattered through the hills are dozens of waterfalls, precipitous ravines, placid pools, small lakes and lagoons, as well as five man-made dams. One of the most beautiful gems is Lake Rotokawau (the lake of the shag), at Te Henga (or Bethells), on the West Coast. Set in a craterlike basin, its bush-clad slopes delight the eye. From the ridge-tops on the eastern slopes or the rock-strewn cliffs on the west coast, are to be had marvellous views, which change in interest from hour to hour. Within an hour’s drive of the metropolis one reaches the hillcrests, presenting comprehensive view's of the surrounding suburbs and the outlying distant land and islands of the Gulf, sixty to seventy miles away. In less than two hours from the heart of Auckland, one can motor right down to the surf-lashed black iron sand beaches of the Tasman Sea.

Majestic Trees

While man has worked for nearly eighty years to cut out the bush, these hills are still the home of large timber trees and there are considerable areas of reserves, . containing splendid specimens of the noble kauri. The late Dr. L. Cockayne, the eminent New Zealand botanist, said: “In the forest reserve in the Waitakeres you have the finest reserve of its kind in the country. It must be preserved

from fire and vandalism at all costs, so that it may be kept as a heritage for your children and your children’s children”. The fact that the City authorities went to these hills in search of a water supply, has meant the reservation of 10,000 acres. In addition the Auckland City Council itself (in conjunction with the Government) has acquired a further 10,000 to 12,000 acres of splendid bush. Over the years a number of public-spirited citizens have given over 4,000 acres containing large trees and varied forest. One property, the Cascade Kauri Park, containing 5,000,000 feet of kauri timber, now that the access is improved, will become a popular picnic spot for the people of the isthmus. A nine-hole golf course has just been laid out there in a forest-lined valley.

Wonderful Bird Life

Added to the beauty of the bush is the bird life, which appears to be increasing because of the extensive reserves and the prohibition of shooting and fires. Native pigeons, kakas, tuis, and now bellbirds are to be seen in increasing numbers. There may still be kiwis and wekas in the dense part of the bush, but their numbers have been sadly reduced by fires, and the entry of stoats, cats and rats, and other undesirable migrants in the way of goats, wild pigs, and opossums.

Magnificent Seascapes

To see the coast in a different mood one needs to visit it when a strong westerly gale is raging. Then the surf lashes the steep cliffs and throws columns of spray and spume hundreds of feet up. Near Piha is a unique blowhole, a salt water geyser which can be seen in action at such a time. Further north at Muriwai, where the cliffs terminate, the famous motor-racing beach commences and runs for thirty miles to the South Kaipara Head. The beach is perhaps the only place near the city where the toheroa is found.

At a cost of over £BO,OOO a splendid tarsealed driveway has been constructed along the eastern ridge from Titirangi to Swanson, enabling a splendid round trip to be made.

The day will come when the people of Auckland will still more appreciate the asset they possess in the Waitakere hills and enjoy it in ever-increasing numbers.