LONDON FASHION NOTES

Waikato Times, Volume 124, Issue 20841, 27 June 1939, Page 5

LONDON FASHION NOTES

LONDON. May 18 All the big fashion houses arc showing their mid-season collections this week. In some ways these are more interesting than the early openings; at any rate, they are safer to follow, for they usually concentrate on the new trends that have been accepted, discarding experiments that have failed to attract. Generally speaking, the extreme short skirt is not popular with the best dressmakers, fifteen inches from

the ground being considered sufficiently short to satisfy even their youthful clients. Then there is less of the bunchy fullness at the waistline than was shown earlier in the season; women liked it on the mannequins but seldom chose it for themselves. Skirts remain full on many models, but it is the fullness of pleats or flares rather than gathers, and this keeps t.he smooth hip-line, with a graceful movement about the hem. The clasped waistline is emphasised usUctlly by a deep, closely swathed belt, a shaped insert, or a high corselet skirt. Above this the bodice may be full, with gathers, pleats, or ruffles, making the waist look smaller by comparison. Valenciennes Frills We have seen many revivals this year, both of materials and styles, but the vogue for Valenciennes lace is perhaps the most surprising. This delicate trimming has not. been used for many years; in fart, it is a complete novelty to the younger generation, and as such is bound to have a success. There are some charming little, bolero jackets made entirely of ruffles of Valenciennes lace worn over evening frocks lh.it often have the tops of the bodices ruffled to match. The ruffles go round and lengthwise; some, are black and others white Another style is developed from the now famous gipsy theme. having a blouse with long, full sleeves, covered in Valenciennes ruffles, and worn with a long, full skirt in vividly striped taffeta.

VERY SHORT SKIRTS UNPOPULAR

For tailored styles the frills of Valenciennes are used to fashion demure turn-down collar and turn-back cuffs, or bib-like plastrons with flat, round collars. These are particularly effective on simple dark dresses. The odd jacket ensemble is still a great favourite; it gives scope for gay colour schemes, and lends variety to a limited wardrobe. Many of the latest jackets show a preference for longer lines. Again, the spirit of contrast is in this vogue for some of these are cut loose and square, while others cling closely to the figure, with a Jane Austen demureness that is most attractive. Velvet Flattery Some of the newest hats show a return to the velvet under-brim. Turned up sharply at the back or sides, this is one of the most flattering styles imaginable, and one we have not seen for some years. ** The contrast of a light hat and dark velvet under-brim is very successful —a touch of the velvet round th» crown being sufficient trimming. Velvet, is one of the favourite materials for winter fashions, and it is not confined to evening clothes. We even have sports jackets of corduroy velvet and velvet blouses that are worn with tweed suits. Modern manufacture has so widened

the scope of this flattering fabric that many types can even be washed! While for evening the elegance of the newest uncrushable velvets in rich jewel shades stands out in a gathering of fluffy frocks. The feminine note is stressed in all types of clothes this season. Petticoats, fichus, ruffles, and bustles, sashes and crinolines, flowers and feathers all give this effect. While, a narrow ribbon tied round the head with a how over one temple is a charming notion Ilia! is replacing the flowers in the hair for parly wear. L. RUTH SIBLEY.