GARDEN NOTES.

Waikato Times, Volume 114, Issue 18986, 1 July 1933, Page 18 (Supplement)

GARDEN NOTES.

iYiY - V j yi .SEASONABLE WORK.^*^

SPECIALLY COMPILED TO SUIT CONDITIONS IN WAIKATO.

(By “Nikau.”)

T' i FRUIT BUD#. / Before doing much pruning, the gardener should be able to recognise the difference between fruit buds and leaf buds, 'otherwise he may be cutting away wood which should be left. In general, a fruit bud is round and plump at this time of the year, while those buds which would give rise to leaves or shoots are decidedly long and pointed. This difference may be observed in most trees and shrubs, .ornamental or useful. An apple tree that has teen planted two or three years will illustrate the difference very well. If the short, £■> 'sturdy twigs (“spurs”) coming from the sides' of the main branches are ,r .' examined, they will be found to carry some large, whitish, plump buds. .These are the fruit buds, and in the case of apple trees are borne almost wholly on the spurs just described. On the other hand, if we examine one 'of the long new shoots, we shall find that almost every bud on it is thin and pointed, and lies close in against the . shoot. This Is a typical leaf bud. With pear trees the same habit of fruiting is found; the fruit buds do not swell so soon, but they come on later with a wonderful rush. Peaches and nectarines show a similar contrast between leaf and fruit buds, but both kinds of buds are smaller. The arrangement of the two kinds Is different, however, from that found in the case of apple and pear trees, for the fruit buds on peach and nectarine trees occur on new wood, and not on spurs. The pruning is therefore different. Pruning Peaches and Nectarines. As the fruit of these trees Is borne • on young wood made a few months previously, the aim must be to Eecure a fair amount of new wood every year. If a twig of a peach tree is examined, it will probably be found to have a good many fruit buds near the tip and plenty of leaf buds near the junction with 'the branch. If we go snip-snipping the twigs, we shall cut nearly all the fruit off. On the other hand, if wc do not prune at all, we may have 100 much fruit tills year and very little wood to bear a 'crop next year. The recognised compromise Is to cut out some of the shoots here and there, -leaving only the one or two buds found at the base of every twig. Next year’s new wood will start from these basal buds. The twigs not cut back in this,way should be shortened a little if they are too long and pliant to carry several peaches. Besides 'culling out about half of the twigs, wo must shorten the main tho'ols or "leaders.” These should be cut across above an outward-point-ing bud, so Hint the growth will be forced outwards, leaving the centre £pen. Shoots crowding the centre ghould also he cut out; this procedure will enable light and air to reach all parts, and will also make spraying jnore effective. In conclusion, it is proper to add that some people believe that less pruning should be done, as the cuts (and resulting checks) may give diseases a footing. Such people let their trees grow quite big, and then cut them out completely after they have done well for a few years. The pruning of apple trees will be described In later notes. FEIJOA AGAIN. A fortnight ago a complete acoount of a new fruit. Feijoa sellowlnna, was given In tills column, concluding with the hope that some local gardeners would experiment with It. Two correspondents have written since, recording their experiences with Feijoa.

Vegetables and Fruit. —Plant eschalots, potato onions, garlic, cabbage, cauliflower, rhubarb, and various herbs. Sow broad beans and peas. Stir the soil between young crops of turnip, carrot, lettuce, and silver beet. Use artichokes while they are at their best. Mould up leeks. Sprout potatoes in boxes. Prune fruit trees, then spray them with Bordeaux (lib to 5 or 6 gals, of water), as this is the best fungicide. Another good one is lime sulphur, used in winter at the rate of 1 part to 20 or 30. (The summer strength for use on soft-foliaged plants is Ito 80 or even Ito 125). Plant fruit trees. Examine fruit *nd vegetables in store.

Flowers.—Plant hardy ornamental trees and shrubs. Loosen the soil about bedding plants. Take up dahlias, label them carefully, and put them away in a dry place. Plant lilies, gladioli', irises, and hardy bedding plants. Layer shrubs and trees that do not grow readily from cutting*. Bow seeds under glass. Dig and manure the borders. Trim hedge*. This is the best time for cutting coniferous kinds such as C. lawsonfana and CL macrocarpa. Trim straggly roses and start pruning about the 10th,

The first Is Mr R, Mears, of Hamilton East. He has a tree about six feet high growing in an open situation and on heavy soil. It is strong and healthy, and the frosts have not harmed it. Planted about five years ago, it had blossoms two years ago (but n'o fruits), a few fruits last year, and a good crop this year, ripening in late autumn. The fruit was enjoyed by all who tried it. As the tree is an ornamental evergreen, It Is a pleasant change from the ordinary fruit trees. The second 'correspondent Is a gentleman from Te Kowhai. He and two neighbours have five trees of Feijoa amongst them. The trees were planted three years ago and are now five feet high; they flowered for the first time this year, but did not set any fruit. The flowers are very attractive, and the trees arc apparently n'ot affected by frosts. For example, tho heavy frosts of last year and of ‘this year did not trouble them. In view of the above experiences by people in our own district, it seems quite safe for us to go ahead with the planting of Feijoas. Our thanks are due to the correspondents who have placed their results at our disposal, . PRUNUS MUME. At present this Japanese flowering apricot is In full bloom, giving the illusion of springtime, In spite of 18 frosts on successive days In June. Readers who are not familiar with Prunus mume should pay a visit to Memorial Park and see the fine specimens of this apricot growing beside the new bridge leading t'o Parana Parle. There are many forms of this ornamental tree; for example, double rose, double pale pink, double white-and-blush; semi-double white, pink, .and “fairy pink" (whatever that is!). There is also a difference in the flowering time. Readers who keep a calendar of flowering time 6 should therefore be careful to observe a particular tree. In 1931 the Prunus mume trees in Memorial Parle did not begin do flower until June 20, whereas this year 'one-third at least of thc bloom had appeared by June 16. This date is a little earlier than the average for several years. Prunus mume can be grown from cuttings, as can the red-leaved trees Prunus moseril (double pink flowers) and P. pissardii (single white, with red plums). Strong shoots of last season’s growth should be cut Into 10-lnch lengths (about May) and planted about 6in. deep. By next winter they will be far enough on to plant out. Other good forms of Prunus are P. bleriana ilore pleno (purple foliage, rich double pink flowers), P. nigra (darkest foliage of all, and single pink flowers), and P. triloba (splendid double pink, with long sprays of bloom if the tree is cut. fairly hard every year). As these all flower in winter or early spring, they are invaluable for brightening up the garden. In many cases the foliage also is very noticeable with its bronze and purple tints.