Will Pilgrims to Jeddah.

Waikato Times, Volume 106, Issue 17804, 31 August 1929, Page 13 (Supplement)

Will Pilgrims to Jeddah.

Sadfaced and Grubby.

THE landing-stage at Port Tewflk presented a strange spectacle as my wife and I made our way towards the gangway of the ship which was to carry us on our voyage of exploration to Jeddah. Moored alongside the open, tinroofed shed lay the steamship Keneh, waiting to receive licr mixed cargo of 500 pilgrims, who now sat in patient groups under the burning roof. Among the crowd moved the local vendors of refreshment; the water-carrier, with shiny leather sheepski!* bag containing a tepid liquid hardly worth the flve milliemes demanded for a mugful; the lemonade seller, his cloudy liquid showing grey-green through a large glass jug, smeared outside with brown patches where the flying sand adhered to the sticky overflow; the cucumber seller, behind a'shallow brass tray in which the quartered fruit —a boon to parched lips——was spread temptingly.

All these were solemn gentry, sadfaced and grubby, whose harsh voices would suddenly rise above the murmur of the crowd and the clanking rattle of winches. “'.Moya a!” (water), “Lemon!” (lemonade), they would chant in turn, in the mournful sing-song adopted by their fraternity throughout the world. The pilgrims sat huddled together in groups, according to their nationality, their rugs, boxes, bundles, and utensils betraying their country of origin even more readily than did their faces. Large mounds of black cloth were scattered, like ant-heaps, among them; in many instances a small infant lay huddled on a protruding ledge, from which we could deduce that these dark mounds were women, completely covered in hot black shrouds. Occasionally a

portion covering a part of the face would he drawn aside and a staring eye would be revealed gazing unblinkingly at one of the ship's officers; if by any chance his glance was arrested by this inquisitive orb, the black cloth would be swiftly swept back across the eye like the shutter of a camera. At last the word was passed that the pilgrims could come on board. There was little noise, but a magnificent scramble. They “ barged ” and shoved with great good-humour. Every cabin was taken and the overflow from the first and second class passengers spread over the upper decks.

The Call to Prayer. The ship started at -5 p.m,, and xve were well into the Gulf of Suez when the sun set in an orange splendour. Suddenly a figure rose in the bows of the ship, silhouetted against the golden afterglow, and, placing his hands on either side of his mouth, emitted a sweet mournful cry, which vibrating rose and fell in musical semi-tones—“ There is no god but God and Mohamad is Ills prophet.” The cry was taken up in other parts of the ship, and in a short lime all the. pilgrims were engaged in prayer. Passing a group drinking, I was invited to join them. My host was one Ghuj;,m Hussein. He hailed from Ispahan, and </;au embarked with the other pilgrims at Beirut. 1 asked him how long it had taken him to get fjnih Ispahan to Beirut. “ Nine days,” he rspOed, “we came by car and had

Motor-Cars and Camels.

no difficulty.” Nine days, instead of as many weeks in the old days! From Port Sudan- the Keneh had just transported a group of wild people from the interior of Africa. They presented themselves half naked and armed with spears, bows, and poisoned arrows, and had taken two years to reach the sea. How many had fallen by Ihc wayside? How many more would fail before they returned to their homes? I wonderdd whether the recording angel made any distinction between the naked savage, Inking four long years to complete his crusade, and the silk-robed Persian, taking but six weeks.

Debarkation by Dhows.

The health of the ship's company was excellent throughout the voyage and the sick-bays were empty, to which happy condition the calmness of the sea contributed. We reached Jeddah the morning of the fourth day. While the ship was still under way, the port doctor came alongside in the Government launch flying the green flag of the Hejaz Kingdom and simultaneously there put out from the shore a fleet of dhows, a fine sight, with their big triangular sails,’ all heeling over to the strong north wind.

In perfect order and in silence the pilgrims were transferred to the dhows. As each received its complement, the sail went up and away it went for the landing-stage. Here the passport and Customs examinations were a model of efficiency, so lhat shortly after noon the white-robed pilgrims were scattered about the town, making their arrangements to proceed to Mecca by car or camel. In the evening we motored out on the Mecca Road to see the manner of their going. Just outside the walls the caravans were being assembled — long strings of camels, each tied by its leading rope to the saddle of the one in front. Some bore a single rider, some had two riders, while to others was suspended on either side a wicker seat in which the women-folk reclined. As each group was completed, the camels were set in motion, There was no noise, no fuss, no confusion. An Up-to-dato Pilgrimage. Most of the pilgrims, however, travelled by car, for this was an up-to-date pilgrimage. Every now and then, with loud honliings, a car would swing through the North Gate, and turning sharply to the right, set off at speed along the road to the Holy City. This road provides the most remarkable testimony to Ibn Saud’s administration.

No less interesting was the Medina Road along which wc motored the following evening. Here, too, single cars loaded with passengers or freight passed in either direction, to and from Medina, 36 hours’ journey in perfect safely. On May 8, the King motored in from Medina and Jeddah was beflagged to welcome him. He had but recently settled with his recalcitrant sheikh Fcisal cd-Dawish, who, it will be recalled, was responsible for the raids on the Iraq frontier. It is the King’s policy to go to the limits of leniency with his people and he shows the forbearance of a father; but when at last he is driven to take extreme measures he strikes hard and surely.

>—London Times, Jeddah Correspondent,