A TRIP TO THE WAITOMO CAVES.

Waikato Times, Volume 2611, Issue 2611, 6 April 1889, Page 1 (Supplement)

A TRIP TO THE WAITOMO CAVES.

— [uy our special reporter.] Hearing of tho wonderful beauty of these eaves, your reporter and a party of friends pftid them a visit on Monday, the 18th inst. The distance from Otorohanga to Waitomo is about 12 miles, and the journey is easily performed in two hours. Tho road, which is a bridle track over the ridges, passes through country of historicallnterest, historical as far as regards the natives, for at various parts were situated at one time large settlements, of which there is now, save for the European trees, such as poplars, peaches, willows, &c., not a trace. On the opposite side of the Waipa from Otorohanga is a flat named Orahiri, which was cultivated in bygone days, but now is rapidly being overrun with sweetbriar. Here also was a large flour-mill, the water for which was brought by a long race—the remains of which are still to be seen—from a lagoon which was made by damming the water of a swamp. Two or three miles farther on are the broken down walls of an old fortification, and a couple of miles farther is the site of one of the largest native settlements named Haurua that existed in the country. Here Potatau was proclaimed king, and here he held his court. Of all the large cultivations which must necessarily have existed in the vicinity of & populous settlement, and of the great numbers of whares which stood there 25 years ago, not a vestige remains. Gone are all the old sages that held council there, gone are. most of the young men aud women who made the place merry with their songs and laughter. No oue who sees this settlement now,_ so sparsely populated, can help noticing the decadence of the race. The only things that show this place was once inhabited are a few withered _ and dying peach trees, fit emblems of the decadence of the old order of Sic transit gloria. muildi. (I don't know what this means, but as mo«t writers like to put in classical quotations in their articles, I don't see why I should allow thein a monopoly. Anyhow, if this quotation doesn't fit, the Editor can cut it out or refer to the P.D. for Advice). Besides the places referred to there are other sites of large settlements, which plainly show how populous the country was, and how capable the land was of supporting large numbers of people. To those who take an interest in native history fi ride through this country, with Mr John Ormsby as guide and historian, would be very interesting. The country is fairly good as a whale, but broken after leaving Haurua a little distance. Some spots after entering the limestone country are very good, but as a rule that part is more suitable for grazing than agriculture, and, owing to the presence of lime, would.. I think, take surface sowing very well, for where the fern had been burnt off and grass or weeds got a I hold it did not come again. The country improved in quality as we neared Waitomo, for one or two patches of cultivation looked very well. After a pleasant ride of two hours, we arrived at our destination, where we were kindly received by some natives, who had camped there in expectation of our arrival. We turned our horses out for a roll and started for the caves, tho entrance to which was only a few chains distant from the camp. Here the Waitomo River enters hill, the tunnel being about seven or eight yards wide. The roof of the cavern was covered with stalactites, which were discoloured from exposure to the light. The height of the roof varied ; in some places the pendants were only _ a few fuet from the water, aud in others tho roof sprang up into a tlome thirty feet or more from tho level of tho _ river. The canoe was down the river in the cavern when we arrived, and a couple of boys waded down the creek and brought it up to the landing place. As it came up through the darkness with a candle burning in the bow showing its dim and indistinct outline with the native guiding it one could, by a little stretoh of iroa"•ination, fancy it was old Charon with his ferry boat to take departed spirits j over the Styx. We got in the canoe three or four at a time, and Charon and his imps ferried us to the Hadean shore which was only about twenty-five yards from the entrance. Here there was perfect darkness, and the illusion that we wero at last in Hades was rendered complete by the windings of tne river, for after crossing the bank where we first landed we came to the stream ao-ain which form its dark waters and sluggish current might well represent Acheron. Here in the dim light of the candles, which but feebly illuminated the lofty cavern, the dusky forms of our native guides fairly represented the shades said to hover round the fabled river. Our guides stepping into the water of Acheron carried us over on their backs not without giving some of us, myself among the number, a partial wetting, to the intense amusement of the others who were more fortunate. In the meantime some natives had been sent on to an upper storey —if I may be permitted to use the term, I know of no other more appropriate where they beat with a stick on the floor of one chamber, the sound reverberating through the spacious caves exactly like the beat of a big drum. Here the roof was about fifty feet from the floor and one of the galleries opened abruptly on the wall of this cave about forty feet from the floor, and at the opening a lighted candle was placed to prevent anyone falling down in the darkness when in this irallory. Hero wc climbed a ladder, and going on about twenty yards, again descended some rocks where the river once more came in sight. At tho request of one of our guides the lights were extinguished, aud we saw a beautiful si"ht, thousands of glow-worms ou the roof and walls over tho river gave out their phosphorescent light, looking in the surrounding darkness like myriads of bright stars. Whichever way one looked one saw the tiny lamps, above around, and reflected in tho water, the whole looking like a distant view of fairy land. We admired this for a time, and having re-lit the candles, examined the tiny creatures which made the scene so beautiful they were little worms about an inch long and not at all unlike slugs in appearance, but somewhat more slender. Each had a pair of antenna longer than the " horns " of a slug, aud set closer together. What they subsist upon is a mystery to me, for there is nothing that I could see for them to feed upon. The temperature of the air in these caves was much higher I expected, being 72 Par., and that of the water the normal temperature ol well water 5S Far. From here we went back a short distance and turned into other caves at a somewhat higher level, and having examined and admired the white walls and stalactites pendant from the roof went up another ladder about 18ft. or 20ft. to another series of caves, in which new beauties presented themselves. In this cave wc cuuie to what is called " Mace's pulpit," in honour of Mr Mace, tho discoverer of the Waitomo caves, for he is the first human being who sat foot there. The "pulpit" is about Sft. 01-10 ft 10ft high, and is like a hollow cylinder split town the middle, perhaps Sft. or 6ft from aide to side measuring round the front, lne front has smalffluted columns, and looks as though liquid alabaster had been poured over it when finished, and overflowed at the foot aud then solidified. The pulpit

is hollow at tho back, and behind it are a number of columns of snowy whittles*, about four inches in diameter. Between these columns and the "pulpit" a man enn easily stand in the hollow. This beautiful formation stands midway between the walls of the cave, and reaches from floor to roof. A few yards from the back of the " pulpit" the cavern ends, and here are some very lovely miniature white terraces sloping back from the floor, rising tier upon tier till they end near the roof. On each side is a lovely

little grotto, and pendant from the roof are great nutnbors of stalactites, some white as snow and others clear as glas-j, and about as thick as a pen handle. Wo had a coil of magnesium wire, and when this was lit the scene under the strong light was one of indescribable i loveliness, just liko what ouo could imagine tho palace of the Queen of the Fairies to bo. Standing back about thirty feet from the " pulpit" and looking up the cave, tho scene was ono that pen cannot adequately do justice to. The light when close at hand is fvery powerful and of a blueish tinge, but when some wires were taken back about the distance mentioned above, the light was raellowod by the distance, and to one atanding close to tho terraces it was toned down to the colour of moonlight which it resembled exactly. Hero was the perfection of architecture,_ here ono saw designs that tho most cunning of architects could not hopo to approach even most distantly. One could not help feeling how utterly puny and insignificant is the perfection of art when placed in comparison with the works of Nature. Hero for ages the mighty Architect has been building up a monument of His power and skill, a monument to elicit the wonder, rovercncu, and admiration of His creatures. This lovely column has, not inappropriately, been called a " pulpit," tor from its perfection, a sermon, though a silent one, is continually being preached, far more oloquent that the most finished orator could, deliver, a sermon in stone and one that will live and appeal through ages to man's sense of the beautiful and call upon him to revere the Hand that made it. It is, if I remember

correctly, in one of the galleries on this level that there is a deep well iu the solid rock, one, that judging by dropping aorne bits of Btono in it, is about forty feet in depth. The opening ib about tlio size of that of an ordinary well, say four or five feet in diameter. At the bottdfe ia running water, for the sound could be heard distinctly. In going through -hese caves a little caution is required to avoid an accident. There is no danger if the most

ordinary caution is observed. Some o the stalactites hero were of a forma. tion entirely new to me, they were not the ordinary cone shaped stalactites so commonly seen in limestone ea v- es, but they were more like small curtains of porcelain, transparent, for when a candle was placed behind them the light shone through more clearly than through a porcelain globe. Some of these had streaks of brown across them, and the effect was very pretty when the light was put behind them. When lightly struck they gave forth a musical sound, very like the sound of a violin string when touched by the finger. From some parts of the roof hung stalactites in clusters and groups, some cone-shapcd and white, some like the curtains described, and some very long, of a uniform size, about as thick as a pen handle, clear and glassy. If the lowest cave through which the river runs could be likeued to Tartarus the upper ones could be truly likenea to the Elysian fields. After examining this series we descended the ladder, and turning to the right wont a littl-j distance and ascended another ladder to another lot of galleries and caves. The natives told us the stalactites and stalagmites were more beautiful in this than in any of the others. They wore certaiuly very lovely, but not as much as "Mace's pulpit." i'erhaps I am not quito correct in saying so, as the designs were different being more delicate and fragile, consequently the beauty was of a different style. In one of the caves on this level was the fiat rock upon which the native was beating with a stick. I suggested that he should give us a chant, which he did, giving us one as he said from Te Whiti's liturgy, some of the others joined, in and acompanied themselves by striking some of the flat stalactites which produced the musical sound already described. The effect was certainly striking, if not particularly musical. A choir of good voices accompanied by an organ would have a very fine effect in the long aisles of this natural cathedral. We saw here some stalagmites in process of formation, and encrusted with crystals which sparkled and glittered under the strong light of the magnesium wire. At this spot were more terraces covered with the crystals which heightened the brilliant effect. Just in front of tha terraces was a slender column reaching from floor to roof, which was the finest of all the small columns throughout the whole of the caves. It was as though it had been built of foam, the curves and folds of which had hardened and then had, like the " pulpit," liquid alabaster poured over it. While admiring this one of tho natives said, " do not tread on tho egg lest you break it," we looked down, and at 'the foot of the column was a for .nation of the size, appearance and colour of a large white egg'. In some of tho caves we went through, tho formations were o; ! rather a grotesque shape. One of the party saw a strong resemblance to the head and face of a monkey in a small stalagmite, while another drew our attention to one which was attached to tho wall, aud somewhat rosembled a female figure veiled from, head to foot. After going through this one the natives showed U3 a small tunnel through which we crawled—it is the only word that will describe our mode of progress—to the open air near the top of the hill, after being an hour v.id threequarters underground. The time at our disposul was too Bliort and the number of places to bo seen so great,, that wo had necessarily but a short time to look at oach. We wore hurried through so quickly that I had no time to take notes of each spot and so have had to write entirely from memory, which has certainly not supplied all the details of tho various caverns. All therefore that I have attempted to describe is only a small portion of the whole. No adequate idea can be conveyed by writing, it must be seen to be thoroughly appreciated. 1 am sorry to say that some persons who were theie previous to our visit, with that vulgar desire for scribbling their names that some people possess, and an insane love for cheap notoriety (and I may add execration) scrawled their names upon somo of the curtain-like stalactites and terraces with the date of their arrival. There is only one way of putting a stop to such vulgar desecration, and that is by publishing their names, so | that they may get the execration hey | deserve, which I now do. One of the individuals rejoices in the name of Joy (no copyright claimed for this), another in the name of Downes, and another possesses the aristocratic and uncommon name of Robinson. While on this subject I may stato that some of tho people who wrote their plebian names on tho Hitugatiki caves, not liking my comments thereon, wroto mine in different placthere, for which I publicly oxpress .suitable acknowledgements, and if it ever li"in my power I shall endeavour to !i'»kd n proper return L wish them t" that I am not on» to tercet At present I should iiol advise i. i to visit the WaitotUQ caves, fot tUe

ladders are of rather a primitive description and slippery from the constant drip. The natives should, if thi-y desire to encouragu visitor*, especially lady visitors, buiid better steps for going ,: p and down upon. With a little trouble this could be doue, and the couple of muddy spots in the galleries could liave planks laid upon them. By enlarging the opening on the hill side the nece.»siiy for going in the canoe would be entirely obviated, They make a small charge of two shillings for showing visitors through, and the money would be well spent. This country is not properly explored yet, for there is little doubt that numbers of caves, perhaps equally as beautiful as this, exist throughout the limestone country. There is a very large one near To Kuini, said to be over a mile in length, and to which James Joseph can guide visitors. Some of the caverns in this one are said to vary in height, from 40 to 100 feet. This country will turn, out yet to be a veritable wonderland One of the party, who is well acquainted with the Peak caves of Derbyshire, and which are lit with electricity, and have asphalted walks, said they are far inferior in beauty to those at Waitomo. In the hands of a European they could be made very attractive. Water power, for driving a dynamo, could be got by building a dam across the river, and so have them

lit by electricity. Persons going up to sec them should go up to Otorohanga stop the night at Black's hotel, and go on next morning, when they could have time to see the caves and get back hoino again the same night, A better way even than that would be to leave Te Awamutu very early in the morning, go on to the caves and return to Otorohanga that night and, by making au early start, get home by 9or 10 o'clock next morning. Mr J. Onnsby and Mr Black very kindly guided us to the Waitomo, and back to Otorohang.i. There is an excellent accommodation to be had at the hotel, and by giving a couple of days' notice, guides, and horses if necessary, will be furnished. I must say in conclusion that the natives received us most hospitably, for on coming out of the caves they had dinner ready for us. They had only pork and potatoes to offer us, but we were hungry enough to do full justice to this simple fare. I would advise anyone going there to get a supply of magnesium wire ; it is cheap and gives a brilliant light, for something more than caudle is required to enable one to see everything to perfection. The number of galleries, caves, &c,, are so bewildering do one going in for the lirst time that I could form no idea of the length and extent of them, in fact at any time a pedometer would be necessary to determine the length. Besides the Waitomo caves there are many others in this district notoably " Te Ana Atua" (Uud's cave) at Mangawhitikau. This is only four miles from the Railway station at To Kuini and is easily accessible. Mr James Joseph, a half caste, who resides at the latter place will provide guides and horses for visitors and tourists. Some of the caves (for Te Ana Atua is a series of caves) range in

height from forty to a hundred feet, so that it must be a magnificent sight. I hear the formations are different to those at Waitomo, although both are of course of lituestome, so that in seeing one the visitor does not see all. Mr Joseph ia a very intelligent ruun and speaks English perfectly, the services of an interpreter aro therefore unnecessary. This cavo, from which some Moa bones were taken about 25 years ago, was not visited by anyoue from that time till my friend and party entered them about six weeks ago. In his letter to me he said it would take him nil'night to describe its beauties, even imperfectly. There are also several cavea at Waiteti which would well repay a visit to them, and as all these places are accessible within a short distance by rail there would be no trouble in going there. I would again impre.-s upon my readers the necessity of taking some magnesium wire or some equally showy light. The wire is very cheap and is procurable in Auckland.