GARDEN NOTES

Wairarapa Daily Times, 16 March 1933, Page 3

GARDEN NOTES

FLOWERS FOR SPRING. HOW TO SUCCEED WITH BULBS. Although tho growing of bulbs of all Winds is one of the easiest of gardening duties, both with regard to their planting and after-treatment, there are a few points that deserve attention on the part of every garden owner if the very best is to be obtained from the bulbs. Questions of soil, depth to plant, and spacing between the bulbs, and other cultural necessities, are all little problems that beset the beginner, and it is well t-o have these points settled clearly before planting duties are begun. A medium soil, one that is neither too heavy nor too light, is most suitable for bulbs, and with heavy and sticky clay soil it is advisable to lighten them by the addition of some sand which is well dug in. As an additional precaution to keep the bulbs dry, a dressing of sand should be given round each bulb at planting time. This helps to keep the coat of the bulb dry and to prevent rotting, duo to wet, before growth commences. In the case of light soils, on the other hand, the addition of some good fibrous loam will provide some substance and nourishment .in the soil. Some bulbs prefer a staffer soil than others. For example, the poetieus varieties of narcissus like a stiff soil, whereas some trumpet sorts, like King Alfred, thrive best in medium ground. If the soil is at all poor in quality, a little bone meal will be found beneficial. Drainage is essential. Dig the soil deeply—lS inches if possible. Use no stable manure unless dug in last spring. Bone meal is the only safe fertiliser.

If planting with a„“ dibble” or rounded stick, take care that the bulb rests on the soil and is not “hung”— that is, left with a hole beneath it, caused by the point of the “dibble.” Plant bulbs, as a rule, one and ahalf times the depth of the bulbs. With daffodils, about four inches is the average depth. Tulips do best if planted about six to seven inches deep, but as most amateurs have a horror of deep planting, it will be all right if the bulbs are given at least four or five inches of soil over them. Hyacinths succeed at a depth of four to five inches. Crocuses, dxias, grape hyacinths (Musc-.ari), lachenalias, and most of tiie other small bulbs can be planted about two inches' deep. VALUE OF POULTRY MANURE. To get the full value from poultry manure it is necessary to see' that it is properly stored and dried. The leaving of manure in a heap in the open leads to detei’ioration of the essential qualities—the setting free of ammonia by fermentations, and also loss of other nitrogenous volatile substances. Rain will also wash away much of tho soluble materials. Fowl manure is claimed by some to be six or seven times as strong as ordinary stable manure. It stimulates vigorous growth of leaves, stems, and roots of plants almost, as much as a. dressing of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia. It lias an appreciable amount of phosphates and potash in a rapidly available form,, and is a good complete manure. As an all-round fertiliser for all kinds of crops it can be strengthened by the admixture of mineral superphosphates at the rate of one part of the latter to six parts of fresh manure. Dried manure, finely ground, makes a wonderful top-dressing for lawns. Where one attempts to do the grinding it is advisable to inspect carefully the manure for particles of grit or stones, as these are likely to damage the grinders. A small grist mill works well, but is only suitable for handling small quantities. In- Britain the ground manure is mixed with fine loam at the rate of two of manure and one of loam by weight, and is then put up in small packages and sold through gairden supply houses. Those who have a demand for it from greenhouse men, flower or market gardeners should spread it thinly on wire racks or trays in a shed, so that it will dry and retain its elements. The racks should bo built in stacks. Dried manure is also used occasionally for tanning. On fruit or cultivated land about six to eight hundredweight may be used to the acre. In fertilising value geese manure is the lowest, turkeys and fowl next, whilst, duck manure is especially rich in phosphoric acid. The latter ia the richest and shows excellent results on grasses. FARMYARD MANURE. Farmyard manure is tho oldest, and most popular of all the fertilisers. Everyone feels he can use this substance either in large* or small quantities and obtain satisfactory results. The reason for this is that good manure contains a fair proportion of all the ingredients that crops require as food, and being so diluted With water and carbonaceous matter, these ingredients are safe to use. Diluted down in the same way, the moist concentrated fertilisers could be used with safety. Natural manures have a further advantage over the chemical fertilisers in that they supply humus and improve the condition of soils. A ton of an ordinary sample of manure would ibe made up of some lfiJcwt water and 31e.wt of dry matter. The 3Acwt of dry matter contains approximately 121b' of nitrogen, 121 b of potasfi, 61b of phosphoric acid, 201 b of lime, a little magnesia sulphur and iron. It can therefore be easily understood, seeing that a ton of such material only contains some 301 bof active plant feeding food, why it is advisable to supplement tho food by a judicious use of a suitable concentrated fertiliser, and this is most important when plants are growing in restricted areas, as plants in pots, fruit trees, or roses in borders.