Gardening Notes.

Wairarapa Daily Times, 20 January 1933, Page 3

Gardening Notes.

Crop Must Succeed Crop. Some people with gardens fail altogether to realise the many opportunities that gardening presents. They are summer gardeners. In the 'winter they seldom think about crops, and the untrodden paths in the garden speak for themselves. They usually wake up when they hear other folk talking’ gardening; they commence to dig when many seeds should be already sown, and the garden consequently yields but one crop in the year. The potatoes are lifted and the haulms are left on the ground, where they are allowed to decay and produce any kind of disease for the infection of the plants in the following year. Whereas, if they are planted at the proper time, the earliest potatoes may be followed by another- crop of potatoes in the same season. 1 • Most early potatoes are lifted while they are still immature, and if the ground was in good heart at the time of planting, it will still contain sufficient plant food for another crop. There is no need for the second crop to mature, for the tubers can be selected for immediate consumption at digging time and they will then eat as “new” potatoes. When broad beans and early peas are past, the ground they occupy should be recropped directly the old plants can he removed. Lore cole and broccoli may be planted for main crops, and cabbages and cauliflowers raised from seed sown in September should also be in good condition for planting in permanent situations during the present month. Turnips of such varieties as White Stone or Yellow Malta may be sown on ground released from potatoes; more lettuce may be sown, and prickly spinach, this last to stand through the winter. Fresh batches of celery should be planted and peas provided with sticks as they become necessary, drawing a little soil to the rows at the same time.

Tying Plants. Tying plants to supports is done for several reasons. First of all, tlieTe is the giving of light- and air; the crop is also better ripened; it is clean, too, and so tying makes for economy in several ways. Baifia is the best material for tying purposes, as it is cheaper than string and does not cut the plants; when clean-up comes, raffia is easily broken apart. It can be purchased at any seed store. “A sftitch in time saves nine,-'’ is very true of supporting plants. A timely .tie at this season will save many an arduous hour later on.

When the pole beans start to run they should be loosely tied to the support, two tyings about ten yards apart will bring them into contact with the pole, and they will thereafter take care of themselves. Tomatoes requii'C supporting the whole growing season if it be' done at all, and if you are not- going to be persistent, it will be better to let the vines sprawl about on the ground—that is better than only half supported, but it is a wasteful and untidy method. Only one shoot should be allowed to grow, all laterals being removed. Keep early celery tied up during its season -of growth, the chief objection to hilling during the hot weather is the liability to cause just, so just gather in the tops with one hand and tie loosely with a piece of raffia, but never do this when the plans are wet, either from rain or dew. .This also applies to endive and cos lettuce, which arc sometimes tied to blanch them.

a a s ■. ,a j ■ r]^! Antirrhinum. The antirrhinum prefers a poor and ..somewhat stony soil with plenty of lime in it. The craze for large flowers has caused it to be grown in rich, heavily-manured soils, with the result that the over feeding has produced a, gross plant and'robbed the antirrhinum of much of its ■character. Not only that, but it has made it more liable to disease. The plants front the time they are seedlings should be grown hardy and without undue forcing by heavy doses of manure. Itime is necessary and should Be added to all soil mixtures for antirrhinums. * * • • Staking Plants. It is the unusual season that we provide for at all times. Hence in both flower and vegetable gardens we provide supports to meet possible strains of wind and storm.- An untimely storm ofittimes makes us regret that we did not take the precaution to properly support our garden friends, but regrets do not repair the damage. It pays to stake plants, it inculcates thrift and other good garden habits, and no really good gardener “fakes a chance”; he stakes the plants with exactly the same purpose in view that you pay. insurance on your household effects. You do not expect fire, and you do not want one, but if it does happen you are protected against loss. Peppers and egg plants, although quite sturdy, will sometimes get damaged from only moderate winds, and a single stick with a couple of dyings will prevent them blowing over. This method can be applied to sweet corn that sometimes gets weak and lanky, or to straighten up any somewhat damaged. Tomatoes can be supported by a few sticks or a trellis made of stakes and held in position, with twine; in fact, it makes little difference what you use. It is simply the necessity of having something substantial enough to protect the plants against storm and sufficiently strong tc keep the fruit off the ground. The result is earlier and better-conditioned fruit, because of the admission of air and light. Beans are sometimes supported by placing a few stakes either side of therow and running some string along. Ordinarily this is not necessary, but it is a good practice in wet soils to prevent rust, especially with wax-podded types. On wet soils it is desirable to keep the vines of cucumbers, squash and 1 pumpkins lifted from the ground, and this is done by laying some ordinary pea brush around the hills and allowing .the vines to scramble over it.

■Gathering the Early Crops. It pays to give strict attention to maturing crops, seeing that they are

Frill, Flowers and Vegetables.

There has been a decided tendency during recent years to grow in smaller pots. At one time it was usual to grow all varieties in 8-inch potts, but lately there have been enormous quantities grown in 7-inch pots.

harvested in prune condition. Make a practice cf gathering all .'the vegetables that are in perfect condition, canning those that are not .required for immediate use. Many gardens fail to pay a dividend because of the neglect to gather their vegetables at the proper time. One of the greatest assets of a. garden is the satisfaction of leaving the best that can be had. Ko amount of wealth can put the flavour into vegetables. The quality of the vegetables that grace the tables of Itlie richest man in the land is no better than yours, only he employs someone who knows enough to gather the vegetables when they are young and succulent. The same thing is obviously possible to the smallest garden owner. Pick your vegetables when small, and those you cannot use either store for next winter or give away. Stop cutting asparagus just as soon as the peas are in bearing. The plants must have an opportunity for building up the crowns for next season’s growth.

The proper way to gather beets, carrots, turnips, onions and other root crops is to feel around the crown with the forefinger and pull those that have attained size. Some are bound to develop before others, and by using those that mature first you are assured of the longest supply of tender vegetables. * * * *

Chrysanthemum Potting. Where the chrysanthemum is grown in pots the work of potting on is now in full swing. Where a. large number of plants have to be got through, preparation should be made well ahead. The loam and manure are generally stacked during the summer months in a. huge square mound. The loam is placed grass side downwards for a layer or two, then comes a layer of horse manure, and this goes on till the ■requisite amount is stored. Before use it is chopped down with spades and the fertilisers added. It is then turned over two or three times and allowed to remain till wanted.