OUR GARDEN GUIDE

Wairarapa Daily Times, Volume LXII, Issue 9735, 23 July 1910, Page 6

OUR GARDEN GUIDE

CROPPING THE KITCHEN

GARDEN

THE PLOT SYSTEM

(By Hortus.)

If the reader will take the trouble to think over last veek's paper, lie wiH find that by working out such a rotation, he not only secures the usual two crops in oup year but lie will see that by such an arrangement the crops are uniform ami follow each other well, for we find the plot in full work all the summer, and in the autumn we leave it stocked with winter subjects, and not in patches in various parts ot the garden, which would sadJy interfere with the uecessary operations ot trenching, etc. If we look a little ahead we shall Hud this same quarter, or at least that portion of it where the celery grew, cropped with onions, beet, carrots, etc.. for which the extra moving of the soil, necessarily attending the cultivation of celery, was peculiarly fitting. On the other part a good gardener would only grow what may be called a short crop after tie sunng broccoli is over, because he would be anxious that during the following winter it should be vacant, and that he might by trenching, etc., expose it to the action of air, frost, and other natural elements. A crop of potatoes or dwarf kidney beans would iill the space up well and leave the ground about the same time as the other half for a winter preparation. Taking into consideration another position of the garden which I will suppose is cropped with early potatoes, and which by January will be used up, we will still iiud it work in well as the potatoes are dug up for cauliflowers or broccoli, kale or savoys.

Here, again, we find another quarter at the close of the summer devoted entirely to wiuter crops, and all the arrangements as complete as circumstances will allow them, and this nan be secured by au ordinary degree of forethought. PERMANENT CROPS. Amongst what are generally coueidered preinanent crops may be included asparagus, strawberry beds, rhubarb, seakale, globe artichokes and others. These the cultivator should endeavour to get near together, for. some of them are untidy subjects, and if dotted here and there about the garden they render it both misiglitlv and unmanageable. Let them occupy a plot with bush fruits, such as raspberries, gooseberries, and currants ; they ought to occupy positions all over the garden, as they are less productive when continually bruised and knocked about by wheelbarrows ami spades, and frequently interfere with important operations. SUMMER CROPS. In every garden, and to supply the wants of most families, there will be required a greater variety of vegetables than have as yet been enumerated. Although The most important crops have been treated, there are others wanted for the complete supply of the Kitchen. These are chiefly summer crop? and ought to have a quarter devoted to their use upon which the stronger growing broccolis, etc., grew the Inst year, as this will be an agreeable change of subjects for the soil. Early turnips in September and dwarf kidney beans in October as well as marrows, cucumbers, salsify, broad beans, scarlet runners, lettuces or any other saladiugp. Herbs also deserve mention. Parsley, which is useful for flavouring and garnishing, requires a good but not too rich soil. Seed may bo sown at intervals from July to January. Sage, thyme, savory and marjoram should have a warm spot, while mint, fennel, tarragon ami mariguld can do with less favoured conditions.

In ttiis and the preceding paper I have endeavoured to give au outline of rotation cropping, and although much niore might be said ou the subject I hope fufficient lias been given to make these notes of some interest to the amateur grower, upon whom I would impress that for thn production of really high-class vegetables, and keeping the ground iv good heart, rotation cropping is essentially necessary. THE GREENHOUSE.

Whenever the weather is mild and dry, give plenty of air. but not in a way calculated to create draughts or currents; water cautiously, but at the same time thoroughly. Decayed leaves and flowers should be promptly removed. Zonal geraniums in flower should get plenty of light, and should be helped to occasional doses of soot water or other mild stimulant. Cinerarias and primulas corning into flower should be brought forward to where they will have plenty of air and light, and have occasionally a little weak manure water given them. Camellias in flower will require to be well supplied with water, provided the drainage is good aud the soil not sour or saturated. Clear soot water agrees particularly well with camellias, and forms a wholesome stimulant provided the pots are full of roots. Pelargoniums for early blooming must have plenty of air aud a temperature not lower than 45cleg. They will also require tying out aud staking. Young plants iv boxes in frames will require plenty of air and all the sun they can get to prevent .them from damping off. All decayed leaves should be removed at once. Plants in cold pits and frames will require constant attention, both as to giving air and preventing damp. When, during bad weather, the sashes cannot be taken off, air bhould be given by tilting trie front of one sasfi and the back of the other, alternately. See that no decayed leaves are allowed to remain on calceolarias, pelargoniums, verbenas, or other soft wooded plants wintered in frames or pits. Verbenas are very subject to mildew, and a sharp look-out for ics appearance should be kept. Immedi- | ately on the first trace being observed dust with flour of sulphur.