THIS WEEK’S GUIDE

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 80, Issue 252, 23 October 1937, Page 13

THIS WEEK’S GUIDE

THE FLOWER GARDEN The surface of beds and borders should be stirred with the hoe. This keeps down weeds and at the same time allows air to enter. Bulbs have done flowering; but the leaves must not be cut off if the Js”!bs are expected to flower next year. Roses must be sprayed or dusted should aphis appear. A nicotine solution will give best results. Reduce the growths on clumps of Michaelmas Daisies to allow those left room to develop; three or four to a large clump is quite sufficient. Perennial Phlox and the majority of herbaceous perennials should have all weak growths cut out. Each growth should be at least nine inches from next one. Dahlias that have been left in the ground and are sending up two or more stems should have these reduced to one. Sweet Peas will need attention as to tieing, disbudding and the frequent removing of spent blooms. To allow a fey' seed pods to form means that a check to flower production Many of the half-hardy annuals can be planted out in districts where frosts are not usual. In high situations, where late frosts are likely, planting of any tender plants should be delayed till next month. Phlox Drummondii, Calendulas, French Marigolds can be sown outside in the open ground. Slugs and birds are the chief enemies and careful watch must be kept. THE GREENHOUSE. Many of the plants which have been housed can now be placed outside or in frames; this will relieve the overcrowding which is usual at this season. Bulbs in fibre or in pots that have finished flowering should be planted outside in a spare corner. They can be planted thickly. They only need a little soil put round the ball of soil to prevent too quick drying. Seedlings of Egg Plants, Peppers, Salvias, Coleus, Balsams, Celosias will need handling, and in some cases, potting will be necessary. Further sowings if necessary can be made. Be sure that nothing suffers from lack of water. Bright sun for a few hours often results in some unnoticed plant suffering, and a week later or so later inquiries are made as to why a particular plant is losing colour and condition. Underwatering in summer is as fatal as overwatering in winter; one of the most important parts of greenhouse work is to be able to anticipate a plant’s liquid requirements. Shading will be necessary, according to what plants are growing. Ferns and foliage plants generally need the most shading. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. The ground will now be filling up with the sowing and planting of the various crops, and space will be an important factor. WWn sowing or planting consider the value of the crop and the time of maturing. A crop such as Lettuce or Spinach that matures quickly should be planted in small plots. A pinch of Lettuce and Radish can be sown with some other seed, such as Parsnip or Peas. A few Lettuce can be planted between Cabbage! they will be away before the Cabbage needs the room. Celery and Leek trenches should be prepared early. They can be used for Spinach, and even a few Dwarf Beans can be sown in them. Dwarf and Runner Beans can be sown to suit requirements. Do not sow too many Runner Beans at one time; make two sowings, one now, another just before the end of the year. Too often are many crops slow in getting away, because the soil is dug the same day as the crop is planted. Green weeds are dug in and the ground is full of air spaces and hard sods, which, if a dry spell occurs, can be turned over weeks later in their original shape. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Gooseberry and Currant bushes should be dusted with derris dust and sulphur, using ten parts sulphur to one of derris. As the petals fall, spray Peach and Nectarine trees for curly leaf and brown rot. Use' Bordeaux 5-4-40. If aphis appears spray with a nicotine solution. Colloidal liquid sulphur can be used in place of power sulphur in almost every case. Outdoor vines should be dusted with sulphur and any unwanted buds can be rubbed off. Remove robber shoots on grafted trees. Apples and Pears should be sprayed when the buds show a green tip. Use Bordeaux 5-4-40.

VALUE OF THE TOMATO

RICH IN VITAMINS As an article of food the tomato is held in high esteem. It contains valuable mineral salts and is particularly important as a source of vitamins. The chief acid present in ripe fruit is malic acid, usually about 0.5 per cent., and there is approximately 0.1 per cent, of citric acid. Authorities differ on the question of oxalic acid, but if it is present in the tomato at all it is in very small amounts. The popularity of the tomato does not depend, however, upon theories based on chemical analysis for its high nutritional value, but it is as a source of vitamins that it has gained highest praise. The term vitamin is given to certain substances that occur in very small quantities in natui. 1 food material, and which have proved to be essential to satisfactory

animal nutrition. Their deficiency or absence causes very serious diseases that have come to be known as deficiency diseases. Fat-soluble vitamin A is essential for growth, general health and reproduction. It gives resistance to bacterial diseases and its absence leads to serious afflictions of the body tissues, especially the epithelial tissues such as those of the eye.

The tomato ranks with lettuce and spinach as a source of vitamin A, in which it is richer than most vegetables and fruits, including the carrot, lemon, orange, onion and turnip. Its red colour is partly due to the pigment carotene, which is now regarded as one form of vitamin A. More of this vitamin is present in the ripe than the unripe fruit. Vitamin B used to be termed water-soluble vitamin B, but the latter is now regarded as containing several different vitamins, which comprise what is known as the vitamin B complex. Of these vitamins Bl and B2 are the best known. Vitamin Bl is subject to change by heat. Its absence causes loss of appetite, loss of weight and a condition of nervousness. Vitamin B2 is not affected by heat. It affects growth, condition the skin and to some extent, mental outlook. The tomato contains both vitamin Bl and| 82, and is richer in vitamin B com-1 plex than most fruits. Vitamin C is

the antiscorbutic vitamin which prevents scurvy and controls the deposition of calcium and phosphorus in the tissues. The tomato is extremely rich in this vitamin, being but barely inferior to the richest known sources of vitamin C, viz., oranges, lemons and other citrus fruits. There is evidence to show that vitamin C is present in greater amounts when the fruit is ripened on the plants than when picked green and ripened artificially, but the amount is not appreciably decreased if the fruit is packed when turning colour, as is usual in this country.

A most important point in connection with vitamin content is that, although the vitamins in most vegetables and fruits are adversely affected by cooking, those contained in the tomato remain practically unchanged.

OUTDOOR TOMATOES HARDY PLANTS NECESSARY Tomatoes were never more popular than they are at present and, al- , though in an ordinary season fruit may usually be purchased at a reasonable price, all will agree that none of these purchased fruits equal those gathered from one’s own plants. Assuming that plants have to be purchased, pay a fair price for them. It is too much to expect well-hardened plants at a cheap price. Cheap plants may give fair returns if nursed along in the warm temperature of a greenhouse, but for ordinary garden purposes they are useless. Having got your plants, steer clear of the all too common practice of giving them a heavily-manured and too porous root run. Such a rooting medium certainly favours very rapid growth, and leaves of unusual length and width, but we have to remember we are dealing with a fruiting plant and not something with which we hope to cover a space in the shortest possible time. Always remember that although rich soil means much growth and little | fruit, a soil to which no manure has i been added invariably means very slow growth, leaves of medium size,

but trusses of flowers every few inches up the stem. Before planting well tread the soil. The firmer it is, the more fruitful the growth will be. Keep the plent to a single stem, removing every side shoot as it appears. Do not be over generous with the watering pot; many growers never water these plants at all. Pinch out the leader of each plant as soon as the third or fourth truss of flowers is seen, allowing about two leaves beyond the third bunch to develop. It is seldom that much fruit is produced higher than this and if a longer season is required, a later sowing and planting should be made. This is much more satisfactory than trying to make worn-out plants continue cropping.

QUICK MATURER VALUE OF SPINACH More attention should be paid to this crop than it is usually given. Many people are not aware that it is one of the quickest maturing vegetables we have. True spinach has no connection with the so-called spinach beet, perpetual spinach or New Zealand spinach. These are substitutes and, though valuable in their way, are not the equal of the genuine article. Sown on good, well-manured ground, it should be ready for picking in about six weeks or even less. The method is to sow the seed, not too thickly, between rows of peas, celery trenches or some other slow-grow-ing crop. As soon as the plants have made leaves a few inches long the row is thinned out for the plants to stand six or eight inches apart, but these thinnings are used as a vegetable. Spinach, being a quick maturing crop, will not last long before running to flower; therefore it needs to be sown as often as lettuce, radish and suchlike crops. Although a crop that generally does best in an open position, partial shade suits it well during the hot days of [summer. A shading of scrim or light covering of macrocarpa branches will give some beautiful succulent leaves in the hottest weather. As a stimulant there is nothing to equal a little nitrate of soda, applied either dry or as a liquid manure, when the plants are making their first rough leaf.