Poultry Notes

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 80, Issue 249, 20 October 1937, Page 11

Poultry Notes

HOUSING The type of housing provided for the birds has a big influence upon the profit or loss of keeping poultry. At the outset it should be realised that although domestic fowls can stand extremes of heat and cold, they cannot stand draughts. I have known birds kept in the high country to prove exceptionally good layers when they have been provided with good draught-proof quarters. When constructing a fowlhouse there are several points to bear in mind. First, make the shed draught-proof; second, see that it is built on well-drained land, and lastly, build it facing the

sun. When birds are kept on the intensive system it is generally considered advisable to allow live square feet of floor space to each bird. This means that a house 16 feet by 16 feet would comfortably house 50 birds without the risk of overcrowding. Frequently 1 have seen up to 60 birds confined on a house of this size, and they have done well, but it would be looking for trouble to attempt to house more than 60. The usual type of house is built on the ordinary lean-to principle. The front should be approximately seven feet three inches high, sloping down to six feet at the back. The front should be boarded up three feet from the ground, and another board about 12 inches wide should be jiailed along the top of the front. This will leave an opening of about three feet, which should be covered with tightlystretched, bird-proof wire netting. The door can be built into the front or the end, but make the door wide enough to allow for the passage of a wheelbarrow. Galvanised iron is expensive at present, but it is, in my opinion, the best material to use in building a fowlhouse. A galvanisediron fowlhouse can be made absolutely draught-proof, and in addition it is cleaner, and does not harbour vermin I to the same extent as wood. Another reason in favour of the use of iron is that it always has a good re-sale if the house is no longer required. It is not necessary to use wooden sarking under the iron roof, but it is wise to use builders’ tarred paper. This is cheap and it stops the dripping which always occurs in frosty weather.

The perches should be suspended from the rafters by strong galvanised wire. Cut two strong cross-bearers and cut slots for the perches to rest in. Suspend the cross-bearers from the roof and then just rest the perches in the slots. The wire prevents red mite from infesting the perches* Make certain that the ends of the perches are at least a foot from the walls of the house. Perches fitted in this manner can easily be lifted out of the slots for cleaning or creosoting. Do not make the perches too high — about two feet from the ground is ample. Make provision for ample nests which should not be on the floor, but built to stand on a bracket about two feet from the floor. Scratching material is very necessary, and if the birds are housed as nearly as possible to the way I have described, good results should follow. Busy Chicks are the Best Those little chickens which begin scratching in the litter as soon as they enter the brooder are valuable. They show strength and vitality, and if watched it will be found that they are

the first to feather and to throw off their baby fluff. They are also the first to perch, and they are the precocious ones which develop and grow in advance. They begin to lay early, and with good management prove to be the best. The chicks must receive proper attention. Comfort for baby chicks is estential. Dry hovers, bedding, and pens, with good substantial food, frequent supplies of fresh dry litter, and clean drinking water, must be the first consideration. Chicks will not scratch and run about if not comfortable. They will not keep busy, and if they are too hot or too cold, their energy is kept low. The chicks themselves decide the correct temperature, and for beginners this is, perhaps, one of the most difficult things to decide Drinking Water for Chicks One of the greatest dangers occurs in the brooder house where the drinking water system is not properly constructed. No water should be spilt near the fountains, because this is where the danger lies, and whatever kind of system is in use, the chicks should have a wire frame to stand on. In this way the water droppings fall through the wire and do not damp the litter, the object being to provide for the health and comfort of the chicks by giving them perfectly dry litter. On cold days, healthy chicks will exercise in the brooder-house pens, only entering the hover occasionally to warm up their bodies. The chicks which work, scratch, and run about, grow quickly, and the object should be to keep up that vitality. This can be done only by giving them good food, clean hovers and pens, and dry. good-quality litter. Dirty litter is not liked by any stock, no matter how old or how young it is. The sweet, dry smell of litter attracts the chick*. My experience has shown me that it is better not to have mash before the chicks all the day, but to give frequent supplies of mash, moistened (with skimmed milk, at regular intervals of short duration. The chicks obtain a cropful of food, and if they are in good health, they will spend the intermediate time scratching about. Give particular attention to the way the chicks consume their grain, and if

there is much left over be careful not to feed mash too near, grain time. It is indeed surprising the amount of food consumed by young chicks, and if clean water is constantly before them with good nourishing food, the chicks will grow and thrive.