BANGKOK

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 75, Issue 178, 30 July 1932, Page 13 (Supplement)

BANGKOK

THE MENACE OF THE EAST (By Cranlcigh Barton.) Daybreak on the first of November found the small coastal steamer, in which I was travelling, at tho mouth of the Menam Biver awaiting a favourable tide. The “Hero” was chartered by Chinese for trade between Bangkok and {Singapore, was officered by Norwegians and manned by Coolies. I was the sole Englishman on board. The sea was an opaque yellow white, the sky was banked with heavy but beautiful clouds, which later accounted for a blinding torrent of tropical rain as the “Hero” entered the river about 9 a.m. Fortunately it soon cleared foi there was much of interest to see, even before reaching Bangkok, which is some 20 odd miles up the river, the latter following a devious course. It is a wide waterway with flat swampy banks of mangroves and palms, the country on either side being absolutely level, with hero and there enormous rice fields. Dotted among the vegetation on the shore were clusters of native thatched huts, many of which were built on piles over the water. One entire fishing village built in this way was most picturesque. Sitting on the bridge with the captain, 1 was able to enjoy the scenery from a good ci. <ition. Any amount of small craft came by; native sampans, brightly decorated junks with coloured sails, and canoes moved up and down, mostly hugging the banks to avoid masses of drifting vegetation in the river. Approaching the city we passed several mosques with tiny tapering towers, many rice mills and other points of interest. Finally we anchored in the centre of the stream with Bangkok round us. Our ship was promptly surrounded by a fleet of lighters and sampans. in one of the latter 1 reached the shore, and 1 soon procured comfortable quarters at the Oriental Hotel. This hotel is built on the river bank and has an attractive setting of lawns and green trees to the water's edge, its hostess is a capable and kindly French woman. The heat that day anti on subsequent days was terrific, but later in the week when 1 read in one of the European language papers that it had been trying even to. the most hardened resident, i realised that 1 had been treated to something abnormal. Streets of the City.

On my first stroll 1 was rather dis appointed with the squalor ol the street scenes after the colour of {Singapore. in half an hour 1 seemed tu nave seen more beggars and cripples than 1 had seen in tne course of a six weeks tour through Java. However, when 1 had explored rather further afield and had discovered many picturesque canals and a labyrinth of narrow lanes teeming with native life and interest, 1 capitulated to its charms and accepted the dirt as part of the picture. Before 1 go funnel 1 must mention the übiquitious mosquito which compelled the hotel guests not only to sleep under nets, which of course is the universal practice in the East, but also to dine and sit in the lounges with their legs encased in decorative red and white bags, which were provided on every chair. For means of locomotion there are, of course, motor-cars, also little rub ber-tyred rickshaws, smaller than the •Singapore variety, and two-class electric trams, but 1 rarely saw Europeans using the latter, in the crowds which throng the streets, the Buddhist priests with their conspicuous canary yellow robes, worn like a Roman toga, are a very prominent feature. They have shaven heads and eyebrows, wear no hats but carry an umbrella. 1 am told that the church absorbs about a third of the male population, also that it is customary for every youth of standing to pass a number of years in the church, whether or not he subsequently returns to civil life. The priests beg their daily bread and early in the morning are to be seen carrying round an iron bowl in which to collect contributions. They arc usually attended by a youthful satellite, a pupil, similarly clad.