HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 75, Issue 178, 30 July 1932, Page 15 (Supplement)

HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER

Few women can cut out and make 1110 strictly tailored type of suits and elaborate dresses. Even if one uses a reliable pattern, there arc so many different little parts and such intricate stitchery to be done that the average women wisely leaves her suits and afternoon frocks to more experienced hands, for to be successful a garment must always look “right-’ and tit perfectly, for this is how smartness is achieved. Designers of the popular street and sports frocks are doing their utmost to help women who are useful with their needle and like to make practical, every-day clothes. Simplicity is the keynote in coats and frocks, and with the vogue for handknitted junipers and waistcoats one only needs a well-fitting skirt to be smartly garbed indoors and a cosy topcoat for outdoors and shopping. Here are a few hints for the home dressmaker. Cutting out is most important and cannot bo done in a hurry. If the material is not cut out correctly the finished article cannot be expected to be satisfactory. Have sharp scissors and the best of pins, as cheap quality pins sometimes leave marks and pull the fine threads of silk fabrics. Sec also that the table is clear. Pin all patterns on the material first. If it is a plain material one can

save a great deal by placing the shoulder seams together, but in case of some printed materials and velvet al> patterns must run the same way. , One needs to be very careful when cutting out the different parts if velvet is the fabric chosen.

Finishing off also counts a great deal. It is a wise plan to press the seams as the frock is being made; never be sparing with the use of the iron. This point is very often overlooked. Then perhaps the dress is tried on before the finishing touches are added, and it is not satisfactory. The sleeves do not sit rightly, the collar sticks out, and perhaps, if it is a coat, it hangs out at the bottom.

The sleeves, are, I believe, the biggest problem of all. Many women sew a sleeve in the wrong armhole. The upper part of tho sleeve being cut high, one should know that? tho rounded high shape follows the line of the top of the arm. Do not have the armhole too large nor too small. In tho case of a small armhole do not try cutting out too much under the arm, but let out the seam. To be on the safe side tack the sleeve in and try on. Sometimes the sleeve seam needs to come more towards the front. A few tiny gathers in the sleeve help a great deal, especially when the wearer’s arms are not as slim as she would like them to be. The sleeves pull across here and so split very easily with arm moicnient, whereas a fullness allows lor arm movements. Very few gathers arc needed, and not close to the underarm seams. Always commence the fullness an inch and a-quartcr from the seam when sewing into the armhole, very

slightly stretching the sleeve from the seam to the gathers; this will make all the difference to the set of sleeves in either coat or frock. If the collar stands out from the neck at the back if cut too low, it may be remedied by taking more on the shoulder. The back of the neckline should be fairly high. Stretch the collar slightly on the neck at thback. A roll collar will never sit satisfactorily if it is not stretched slightly at the hack, but bo careful not to stretch either collar or fronts when stitching to the front neckline. A badly fitting collar will spoil the effect of a coat, and is most uncomfortable. In the case of a costume coat or even a blazer the back of the coat perhaps may hang out. Take a little more on the shoulder scams near the sleeve, not at the neck. In the case of the front of the coat hanging apart at the bottom (this applies to a full length coat as 11 as a short one) take off at the alder seams again, only at the neck this time. These points are very important, as a coat to look “ right ’ 1 must have a good line. If it does not hang right the general effect will be spoilt and the coat look home made.