CHRYSANTHEMUM CLUB

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 74, Issue 229, 28 September 1931, Page 11

CHRYSANTHEMUM CLUB

STUDY OF GLADIOLI ADDRESS BY MR COX Another of the interesting lectures which are held monthly by the Chrysanthemum Club was given recently by Mr P. Cox on gladioli culture. Mr Cox has studied the habits of gladioli extensively and gave a most intimate talk as the result of his studies. Introducing his subject, the speaker traced the habit of man of collecting flowers and vegetables throughout the centuries. In the early days he used to collect plants for food but as time went on his tastes altered in accordance with his mode of living. From coloured stones and shells for personal adornment he had now changed and was collecting coins, stamps, paintings and antiques, etc., for his homo and for the museums. ‘To-day,” said the speaker, “we have more time for recreation and the trend is towards outdoor pursuits. Creating a garden interests us and satisfior our instinct for collecting. Being social creatures we want to talk over our achievements with kindre i souls and glean from them some gems of wisdom.

“Our club formed here is an organisation that fits into this scheme of things and wen want to see our membership greatly increase. Our field of endeavour is continually broadening and we are trying as a body to solvo questions that are beyond the scope of the individual.

“The interest in the ‘glads’ and the number of amateur growers is increasing,” he continued, “and once started one is restrained only by the space available or the budget allowance.

“The gladiolus has been well described as the most decorative and most easily grown of all summer growing bulbs. Few flowers have more lasting qualities and decorative uses. When cut for the house ‘glads,’ like most other flowers, repay for extra care and attention and the object of these talks aro to help in reaching perfection. By beautifying the home and surroundings we can make our city a delight to the inhabitants and visitors. Gladiolus preeminently is a flower for the amateur. Its ease'of culture, its grace and beauty of habit, renders it suitable for planting either in beds or borders, by itself, or in association with other subjects. Its wide range of alternative colourings and excellence as a cut flower for interior decoration and lasting qualities are well known. “Almost any kind of soil is suitable provided there is efficient drainage, but to get the best results the grower must give a little attention to the beds. In selecting the location it is well to remember that gladioli prefer full sun and, if possible, to be placed where they will have protection from high winds and, as they require an abundance of plant food and moisture, planting near trees or hedges should bo avoided. . . “Plenty of humus embodied into the soil is recommended and if available, a liberal supply of -well rotted stable manure, the manure being buried deep so that tho roots will have to go down to it. "Having prepared the beds the next consideration's selection of corms. A gladiolus corm should not be judged by its size alone. A small high-coloured corm is to be preferred to one that is largo in diameter. Some varieties tend to make flat corms. "Corms should be planted four to six inches deep. A good plan is to cover each with a handful of sand, and about six inches apart in the rows which should be 18 to 24 inches apart. The most suitable time for planting is tho first half of October; but corms should on no account be left out of tho ground long after they have started to shoot. If anv corms have started to shoot. >o early they should bo planted a little deeper. "Watering the beds after planting should be avoided and if the soil _ is very drv it should receive a soaking three or four days before, and again when tho foliage shows through the ground. "When feeding for exhibtion spikes tho first top-dressing should he given when the plants are from 12 to 18 inches high. There is nothing bettor than two parts of fine bone flour to each part of blood manure. A good method of application is to open a furrow about six inches on each side of tho row and sow tho fertiliser in this. Mix it with tho soil and again fill in the furrow. When the flower spike begins to push

through the leaves it should be liquid fed with cow manure that has been soaked for several days, the stock solution being diluted until it is the colour of weak tea. Nitrate of soda or dried blood, a heaped tablespoon to the gallon of water, may be used instead of or alternate with the cow manure. Feeding should stop when the first flower shows colour. From then on plenty of water should be given. “Stakes should be provided and the flower spike tied securely in several places. A final dressing of sulphate of potash will improve the flowers and counteract any softening of the corm that the other fertilisers may have caused. If grown for garden display there are many and varied methods of lay-out which can be worked out to suit the bod or border. About six weeks after flowering the corms may be lifted and the curing or drying out continued for several weeks after harvesting when they should be ready for cleaning and storing. Care should be taken that the young cormlots adhering to the roots are not mixed. The eorms should be st6red in a cool dry place whore there is thorough ventilation. Nothing is more detrimental than damp stagnant air. “When cleaning look out for diseased corms and destroy any that are effected, thus saving spreading. As moisture directly favours the development of the fungus rots in storage, it is extremely important that the corms be dried off thoroughly before storing away. The ‘glad’ is very generous to the grower and increases in several ways. First it often splits into two and sometimes three, which will each grow a flower spike. Secondly, by cormlets which will flower tho second year, and by seed from natural pollination by wind and insects. “A very fascinating field is open tc the amateur in raising now varieties bj hand-pollinating, for, who knows, on< may bo fortunate in producing a champion. “Types and varieties are so numerous that it is impossible here to give a complete list. Tho grower is advised to procure a descriptive list from a reputable grower or pay a visi to a gladioli show and then make his selection.