KITCHEN GARDEN

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 72, Issue 291, 7 December 1929, Page 23 (Supplement)

KITCHEN GARDEN

We have had quite a reversal of weather conditions; a much needed rain came at a very satisfactory moment and we are at the time of writing having some rather heavy wind, the effects of the rain, however, have already shown in the growth of all vegetables. Early potatoes are just at the stage when they will benefit very considerably. The moist weather has enabled the last planting of potatoes to be put in Savoy cabbage and broccoli should also be planted. It has apparently delayed the arrival of the fly a week or so. The soil should be satisfactory for planting for some days yet, so that those w’ho did not plant during the moist weather may do so. now with satisfactory results. Another break in the weather will bring a crop of weeds, but these may be quite easily dealt with if they are given attention while they are small. Strawberry plants will have benefited considerably and runners may be expected to make their appearance any time now. The tomatoes will begin to sprout freely, and the laterals may take charge of the plants unless they are rubbed off as soon as they appear. In very favourable localities blossoms will begin to show. When this is so it is especially important that the plants should not be burdened with laterals so as to allow all sap to go to the fruit or the regular growth. Pumpkins and marrows, especially the latter may still be sown, but ns it is late the soil must be well prepared to ensure quick growth. Cucumbers should be sown now. They may have been sown considerably earlier than this, but sown now will make very rapid growth. They like warm soil, but will grow’in almost any soil provided it is in good condition. Cucumbers grown on hungry soils are inclined to be stunted and bitter and do not keep up cropping, any length of time. Fresh manure may be used, but well rotted animal manure is to be preferred. Do not crowd cucumbers; give each plant at least two or three inches each way. Sow old seed if possible, plants grown from old seeds grow better and crops more freely than those grown from very fresh seeds, this may seem strange but it is true. The same applies to rock melons, grown from old seed they will not make such strong growth, but they will crop much better and earlier than plants grown from new seeds. This is a good time to make sure of a planting of winter green. Where the soil is dry kale and silver beet are to be recommended; otherwise savoy or drumhead cabbage and broccoli are more satisfactory. Lettuce should now be planted at regular intervals. The present conditions are suitable for the sowing as well as the planting of this vegetable. Carrots, parsnips, beetroot etc. that have not been thinned out should be attended to as soon as possible. Celery should be planted now for late crops. The earlier planted rows should be growing rapidly now. Leeks may still be sown. If plants are available they should be planted to ensure a winter supply. Turnips may be sown at any time to meet whatever demands are made on them. to Early-sown peas should now fill it rapidly. New rows should be sown at regular intervals. It must be born in mind that the really dry weather is not really favourable for them, hence the necessity for thorough preparation when sowing. Radishes may bo sown at any time. The present conditions arc most favourable for them. Dwarf beans should be sown at inervals to ensure a constant supply, climbing beans should be sown now for midsummer use, and only deeply dug soil and thorough cultivation will bring satisfactory results. The rain will have benefited the onions, but the hoe should be kept busy to induce maximum growth, they will soon begin to grow rapidly. Rhubarb has been well pulled until now, after this it should not be pulled so heavily, and after the New Year not at all. If asparagus beds have been cut for the first time this season it would pay to stop cutting them now to gather strength for next season. Next season they may be cut until the end of December, after which all beds should be allowed to grow. Kumeras may still be planted, but as the season advances beds must be more and more carefully prepared to make up for the late planting. Cape gooseberries may be planted now, they may not crop much the first season, but will make most satisfactory plants for the next Never plant cape gooseberries near violets or under peach or nectarine trees, as they invariably get covered with red spider and this pest is very objectionable if it gets on the violet plants or peach or nectarine trees.