Gardening Notes

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 71, Issue 291, 8 December 1928, Page 18 (Supplement)

Gardening Notes

(BY

' ALKANET).

KITCHEN GARDEN

We had a most welcome spell of hot weather a week ago which did a great deal of good. The effects of it will be felt for some time yet. The immediate effect has been a splendid growth of all plants. It has given an opportunity to get all hard soil broken up. It is much easier worked when it is moist. The last lot of potatoes should be in by now. They may he planted later than this but the crop would most likely be small. The moist weather was a good opportunity to plant winter greens. If broccoli are not already planted they should go in as soon as possible, so they may have the benefit of the moist soil. We may still get more rain but one cannot be sure.

Cabbage planted now should be .either drumhead or savoy, as they arc better able to resist the cabbage fly. Rod cabbage also may be planted, also green kale. The latter makes a very satisfactory winter vegetable where other greens will not grow. If cauliflowers are wanted, early varieties may be planted now to come in late in the summer. It is rather late for main crop or late cauliflowers. Broccoli may be planted right up to the end of December, providing the soil is in a suitable condition. The present weather has brought on the growth of tomatoes. The laterals will be showing freely. These should be picked off as soon as they are large enough, but the regular foliage should not be touched. From now on tomatoes should be sprayed every ten to fifteen days. If the growth is not rapid the intervals may be longer but the foliage must be kept covered with spray to keep the plants as free from blight. Dwarf beans may be planted at intervals to keep up the supply but as the soil becomes dryer the beds must be more and more carefully prepared. Climbing beans should be sown now. They may, of course, be sown right until mid-summer, but this is the time to sow for the main summer supply. Sweet potatoes may still be planted. They like warmth. Sweet corn may still be sown, but the soil must be warm and well prepared. It is a very heavy feeder. Beetroot, carrots, and parsnips, may still be sown but as it is late they must be given every chance to grow. Lettuce should be planted out at regular intervals and seed sown to meet the demand for n.cw plants as the season progresses. Leeks should be sown now and if plants are available they should be planted out. Seeds should be sown of silver beet. The seed may be sown where it is to be grown or the young plants may be transplanted. If tlray are transplanted do not let the plants get too large before they are moved or they may not recover. Marrow artd pumpkins should be planted or sown. Cucumbers may be sown. They may be sown right up till the send of December with satisfactory results. Onion beds should be growing well now. A continuation of the cultivation between the rows will help them along considerably. Celery should be planted now. This is the time to plant the main crop. Well prepared and well manured beds arc essential to produce satisfactory results. Rhubarb plants must not be pulled too hard. Some leaves should always be left on the plants or they may not give a good crop next season. Asparagus beds that are being cut for the first time this season will benefit considerably if the cutting is stopped now until next season. Straberry beds should be given sufficient attention to keep the weeds down or the crop will suffer.

THE ORCHARD

In the orchard the usual routine work should be continued. The ground should be kept free from weeds and kept as workable as possible, do not leave any rubbish laying about. The second spraying of apple trees against the codlin moth is due now. To neglect to spray against this pest is to throw away all chances of a good clean crop. The apples will certainly be effected unless they are .protected by the spray. Gooseberries are being harvested now. Do not allow the bushes to become neglected. Keep them elean so they can begin gathering strength for next year.

ORNAMENTAL GARDEN

In the ornamental garden the growth is very satisfactory. The shrubs arc doing quite well. They may be a little latje but otherwise they are quite satisfactory.

The' lawns have had a renewal of strong growth while the moist weather lasts, but are back to normal again now. It was a good opoprtunity to give newly sown lawns another rolling. Lawns should now be weeded, especially newly sown ones, or the grass may get crowded out. A look-out should be kept for leaches on such trees as: Amolanchea, scarlet oaks, maples (Japanese), spindle trees and other trees noted for their autumn foliage. Once the loach gets into a tree it soon spoils all next season’s autumn tints. A spraying of arsenate of lead diluted in water until it looks like milk will stop them immediately and the lead will not harm the foliage. Roses are getting over their first crop and getting ready for the second. All spent blooms should be removed to prevent seed heads forming or else the new. blooms will not form. Carnations may be given a mulching

or liquid manure as soon as they show colour. The manure must not be too strong. A little lime sprinkled over the beds will also prove beneficial. Chrysanthemums may still be planted.

Those already planted should be pinched back to make them branchy, and keep them at a reasonable height. Chrysanthemums for garden decorations should be allowed to get more than four feet high at tho very most. This may be managed by pruning them' back repeatedly until the beginning of January, after which they should be allowed to go ahead. Dahlias may be planted now. One sprout to each plant is quite sufficient if a continued supply of,blooms is required. Several sprouts to the plant will produce too many flowers for the plant to develop properly and the result will b.e a poor display and a short one.

Annuals may still be planted. Those that like the heat arc often better planted late than early. Cosmos, saJ'vias and marigolds should be pinched [back to make’ the plants spread and produce more display. i Phlox Drummondi and yerbena should be pegged down. This will help them to spread. Pansies, nemesias, primula inalacoidcs should be pulled out and replaced with other annuals or bulbs that are to bloom through the summer or during next winter.

Phlox Drumm on di is one of the best summer flowering annuals and should be planted or sown now. Asters may still be planted with a fair chance of success. Anemones may be raised from seed for next season’s blooms. If sown now a raised bed of light sandy soil is most suitable but almost any light soil will do if it is well prepared. Sow the seed thinly and cover only very lightly. The bed must be shaded from the mid-day sun to prevent the surface getting too dry. A covering of scrim about two feet from the soil is most suitable. The scrim must not touch the plants and the bed must be kept moist right through the summer. It must not, however, become wet or sodden or the plants will damp off very quickly. They may be planted out early in the autumn as soon as the soil is reasonably moist and cool. This will entail some trouble but if the plants are a success some very early flowers will be the result. Ranunculus may be raised in the same way but they are best sown about March or April.

One of the showiest shrubs we have is the scarlet bottlebrush. It is in flower at present and its scarlet flowers are very noticeable. It should be largely planted. It will grow almost anywhere except in very wet It has a tendency to become straggly if left to itself, but if pruned regularly every summer after it ha s finished flowering it will grow into a nice compact shrub. As the blooms are carried on the ends of the young growth the effect of tho pruning is to produce more flowers. It is quite as good a shrub as the scarlet gum or the pohutukawa; in fact, in some ways, it is bettor. It doos not take nearly as much space as cither of these trees. The New Zealand Flax.

This is rather comomn in New Zealand and is therefore not planted as extensively as it deserves. In the older countries it is often grown in tubs for decorative purposes. It is very handy and will stand a lot of neglect. There are several varigated forms and they are all ornamental. They will grow in very dry land, but do not like too much shade. The yellow and white variegated one is probably the best known but there are several brown variegated ones that are very ornamental; indeed, especially the darker ones, some of which may almost bo called red. These are of a dwarf nature, but are very striking on account of their colour.

Styrax Japonica is a very dainty flowering shrub or small tree for a cold district. It docs remarkably well almost anywhere but prefers soil with a clay bottom where it blooms very freely. It is considered one of the daintiest spring flowers wo have. Its flowers arc white and hang right down the branches. The foliage is very small and gives the shrub a light-looking appearance. It really needs to be seen to be appreciated. It is not planted as extensively as it is white, and white flowers are not favourites, but it is really a real gem and well worth a place in any garden.