Gardening Notes

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 71, Issue 219, 15 September 1928, Page 18 (Supplement)

Gardening Notes

(BY

ALKANET).

KITCHEN GARDEN The recent weather has made the ground very wet which may delay planting ami sowing operations, but it will, of course, only be longer as we are getting towards spring unless we have a repetition of last year, when wo had a period of very wet and cold weather, but this is hoped we will miss, as it was very destructive on heavy land last year and seeds rotted and early crops in most instances very small.

The weather has made it possible to go ahead with breaking of new land, as breaking up of new land in dry conditions is rather unsatisfactory. It will also have the effect to extend the time for planting such as, asparagras, rhubarb, sage and thyme and other such perennial plants. Planting of potatoes may still be carried out, except on heavy land, when it is better to posapone it until weather conditions are more favourable, but it may be that by the time this is printed. Peas should be sown at regular intervals. Peas are easy to grow, but there may be points about growing peas that are not apparent to everyone. Generally peas are grown too thickly. The peas sown during winter should be sown thickly to make up for losses in seed or from slugs. If they are sown, say 9 peas to every inch or inch and half is plenty. In the average garden when they are usually crowded between rows, it will seem unsatisfactory, but if notice is taken of the peas when they are fit to be picked, it will be found that such peas on plants given room as stated, will be bigger and better pods, 6 to 8 or more peas in a pod, and more pods on the plant, that is more satisfactory than if there were the double number of plants and the double number of pods, but with only half the number of peas in them. That may be satisfactory to sell, but. for own use, the former are the best, it means less labour in picking and shelling them and better peas for use. Try and notice the difference, it is surprising. It is, of course, necessary to dig deeply the manure freely. Earth them up the usual way as soon as they need it and stake them if they are tab varieties. The deep cultivation is essential for very early peas, it gives good drainage and is also very essential for summer peas, as it helps in summer time to retain moisture. This may sound contradictory, but in practise it is not so. Another thing with early peas, is not to tread on the beds and yet run the hoc through them as often as possible. The weather has also temporarily put back the blooming of fruit trees, and thereby extended the time in which fruit trees may be pruned and sprayed, but this may soon be too late. It is therefore necessary to execute the most necessary work. Fruit trees may still be planted, as well as fruitbushes, raspberry canes, loganberries etc. Asparagras beds may be planted and hedge and shelter trees planted as the opportunity offers In regard to shelter trees, it is not always understood that they should have their tops reduced in size. Pines, when they are in exposed places are all the better for having this done to them. The real value of trees for better purpose, are not the size of the top, but. the size and condition of the root. They may not perhaps appeal to one, but in the long run the roots are the deriding factor of growth. Pines if reduced in size when planted, may break with two heads, but that can easily be remedied the next year if clean stems are wanted for particular purposes, by cutting the surplus stems and it will not be repeated. Lettuce should he planted now and more seeds sown for later transplanting. Cabbage and cauliflower should be planted wherever soil is in fit condition. Both early and late varieties may now be planted and seeds should be sown for further planting. Carrots may be sown, but only in very warm land. Onions should now be planted or sown, wherever the soil is fit. Shallots should now be in, except in very wet localities, but should be planted at the first opportunity. Beetroot may be sown, but only in exceptionally warm sandy land, as the ordinary land is still too cold and wet. Spinach may be sown now, winter varieties for preference unless in sandy land. Radishes may be sown on light land, but they will not do well unless the soil is suitable. Broad beans may be sown anywhere now, as they are hardy enough for any rough weather, but French beans should not as yet be sown, unless the soil is exceptionally situated and protected from possible frosts, only in places very close to the sea is this possible and in such a place butter beans may also be sown. The break we have had in the weather will be very welcome in most gardens, where work has got behind, as it enables beds to be turned over wiuthout any loss of moisture. This may be the last heavy rain we may get and all new lawns to be spring sown should be sown at the earliest, as this is the ideal time for doing so. Old lawns should be given as much rolling as possible. It cannot be overdone and a well-rolled lawn is easier to cut right through the summer. ORNAMENTAL GARDEN As soon as the soil is again in suitable condition, flower seeds may be sown, and eeds of hardy annuals. Tender annuals should still be sown in

boxes, with protection against too much sun, or too much moisture, either is fatal to tender seeds as they come up. Now is the best time to spray azaleas and rhododendrons from Tripps blight before the blossom comes out. A nicotine mixture is the best. Blacklcaf 40 is a very good preparation. Tripps is often very bad for some sorts of azalea and rhododendron and unless checked, will at times kill the bush. Too much shelter at times tends to encourage this blight. The unusual conditions has extended the planting season and most shrubs may still be planted successfully. Bulbs are coming through well and the mild weather favours good blooms. Anemones may be topdressed when they start to bloom. Sweet peas should be looked over regularly for slugs, as well as other plants that slugs are fond of. As soon as carnations show signs of bud. they should be tied up. Now is about the last week that foliage shrubs may be pruned. All roses should now have started to grow a little and should be kept clea» from green aphis, as that blight often cripples the first crop of bloom and mild spring weather is their favourite time. Gladioli that have been lifted during winter may be planted now if the soil is not too wet, but 'rhey may be kept out of the ground until end of December and then bloom satisfactorily. If the sand in the garden is sandy or otherwise light, plant annuals out early, but if of a heavy nature, plant late as it is safest.

If roses are breaking out into growth too freely, some may be rubbed off and this will make the remaining branches give bigger and better blooms. Do not cut the tops of narcissi as soon as they have finished blooming, as that will affect the blooms next season. They should be left to rot off before they are removed. As soon as the violets have finished blooming, is the best time for transplanting them. They should be transplanted every season and if possible given a fresh location. The Hilebrus may now be transplanted as this is just before they start their new growth and their flowering has just finished. On heavy and rich land they may be left 3 or 4 or more years without dividing them, but if poor land three years is long enough. Always plant in the shade, as they object to the sun. Old blocks of gallardias should always be divided either in early autumn or early spring. Coreopsis should also be divided now. If left more than one season, they usually die. Brugmansia, a large shrub that does very well in warm localities. It will do well in sand. The best known of this shrub is the white form brugroansia condida, and is the easiest grown, but like all the varieties, does not like a wet situation. There is a double form of this variety, brugmansia whrightii, it is very hardy and will grow where the single variety will. The most conspicuous of the brugmansia is the sandunica because of its bright rosy pink colour. The white variety has the largest bloom, 8 to 10 inches long at times, but the coloured variety is certainly the most decorative. The sandunica variety is slightly more tender thr- the white variety. All varieties v il bloom Tight into the winter, if protected from the frost, but once the frost reaches them they are discoloured and the foliagn shrivels up like pumpkins, but they break again very freely in spring. All the bugmansias take kindly to pruning; hard pruning produces larger numbers and better sized blooms. They are well worth growing if a suitable spot is available.