Gardening Notes

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 20110, 31 March 1928, Page 16 (Supplement)

Gardening Notes

(BY

ALKANET)

KITCHEN GARDEN

The garden is now beginning to assume a real autumn appearance. Most crops are ripening off and to all appearances will be very fair. Potatoes are cither dug or else ready to be dug. Leaving them in the ground once they have stopped growing serves no purpose, they arc inclined to become overgrown with weeds and this makes them more difficult to dig besides making it very late before the soil can be turned over and green manure put in. The sowing of green manure has become a necessity since animal manure is so hard to get and w'hcre it is available it is to expensive for the average gardener. A little manure such as blood and bone, Guana, or super spread on the ground when the green manure is sown will give splendid results, but only a light dressing should be applied. It is of course best to dig the soil before sowing, especially if it is inclined to be heavy. On light land the seed may he sown without digging but it is decidedly better to turn the ground over first.

Onions should all be under cover by now. They should be looked over at regular intervals.

The potato onions for planting should be looked over to see they are not rotting. They may be planted any time after the middle of April.

The beds for autumn sown onions should be prepared as the seed niay be sown any time after the middle of April. Get the bed turned up roughly let a crop of weeds sprout and destroy them by raking the bed ever. Destroy as many crops of weeds as possible. Autumn sown onions are slow to make a start unless the soil is exceptionally free from weeds and usually need weeding two or three times before they are transplanted. Hence the more wcecis that arc destroyed before they arc sown the less there w'ill be to take out later.

Summer rhubarb has now stopped growing but not the winter rhubarb which is just starting into new growth. It would appreciate manure of almost any kind. Lettuce should be sown and plants available should be planted out now. Well worked and well manured beds are a necessity to get good results at this time of the year. On heavy land the plants arc best planted on ridges to ensure perfect drainage. Late sown peas must have as much attention as possible to help them along.

The same attention must be given to late sown beans. A light top dressing of super will help them but not too much at a time. In districts where early frosts are to be expected some sacking should be kept handy to cover marrows, pumpkins, and melons in the event of a frosty night. In cold districts asparagus beds, if they have finished growing may be dug ana prepared for winter. Radishes may be sown In warm localities but the beds must be raised above the surrounding land to keep the soil as warm as possible. Choose as sunny a position an possible. Parsley roots growing now will run into seed early in spring and no foliage will be available for use unless new plants sown during the autumn are ready for use.

Turnips may be sown any time. A rather large Jot may be sown now to have plenty for winter use and early spring when vegetables are so much in demand.

Cabbage and cauliflower may be sown now but they must be covered with scrim or the fly will attack them and they will have little or no chance to grow into usable plants.

Silver beet may be sown at any time. A good supply is always needed for winter.

Spinach may be sown but the winter variety only. The hoe should be kept busy among plants that are to be used during the winter, such as cabbage, brocoli, and silver beet. The constant tillage of the soil is the best help that can be given to them once they are planted. Main crop tomatoes may have their foliage removed now. This will hasten the ripening and also help to keep them as dry as possible, which will help to keep the blight away. Late crops, meaning plants put in during the last week in November or early in December should not yet have their foliage removed as they will still grow a good deal. If rain has washed the spray off the fruit a fresh lot should be applied to keep the fruit covered. This is necessary, especially to fruit late in ripening. No liquid manure should be given to tomatoes now. The soil should be kept as dry as possible.

THE ORCHARD In the orchard things will need very little attention now except in turning over the land as soon as the fruit is off the trees. The orchard may then, -with great advantage, be sown down in lupin, clover, or other manuring crops. Besides enriching the soil this will keep the weeds from seeding and so make less work in the spring when time is very scarce on account of the lot to be done in the garden. FLOWER GARDEN In the ornamental garden the autumn weather has started the lawn into growth and renewed work with the mower is the hte result. This is the best time to lay down the new lawn; soil conditions are ideal. The planting out of the first annuals for early spring flowering. Nemesias are the first to bloom. The antirrhinium is another annual that will grow right through the winter and bloom early. Stock may bo sown but they may need covering with scrim to keep the fly off them. Cinerarias should bo sown outside and if plants are available they should be planted out at first opportunity. 1 The winter flowering marigold

(tagites) should be sown now on light land; they will flower very early in spring. They may be transplanted but arc best sown in their permanent places. The plants must be spaced out at least six or eight inches apart. Coreopsis may be sown. Old blocks of these may be divided and will give early flowers. Wallflowers should be sown for spring blooming. Linaria, a spring flower, should bo sown.

Cuttings of antirrhiniums, geraniums, pelargoniums and salvia bonfire should be made. The first two will root outside, but the others need to be under glass. The salvias will strike better with a little heat but the pelargoniums do not like heat. Pelargoniums arc slow to root and strike best in pure sand and until rooted should not be watered unless absolutely dry. A frame closed down during the day and ventilated during ‘the night is the best place to root them. The young wood only should be used for cuttings. Salvias also may be rooted in this way but they -will root more readily than the pelargoniums. Carnations should now' be taken off the layers. Carnations on suitable land may be rooted from cuttings. This is about the best time to plant these. Light soil is necessary or soil that has not been enriched with artificial manure as this seems to make the soil unsuitable for striking cuttings that arc difficult to root. The sun must have access to the cutting bed but it may be necessary to shade them slightly for the first two Tyeeks or so. Carnations grown from cuttings make splendid plants but as a rule do not bloom very much the first season. The cuttings should bo made of young wood. Some varieties root best if taken with a leaf but others will root quite freely without this. The cuttings should be planted fairly deep so that the heart of the cutting is just above the surface of the soil. Cuttings with long foliage should have the foliage shortened or they may wither, the foliage having drawn too heavily on the vitality or tne cutting. They may be watered when they arc planted but nor after that. When they have rooted, which is usually in about three months’ time, they should be transplanted into beds and given more space. Among the autumn flowering bulbs the crocus are not receiving the popularity they deserve. They are exceedpretty as well as hardy and take up very little room. They are suitable for borders and excellent for rockery work. They may bo left for three ov four years without dividing. Plant about three inches deep. They like light rich land, although they will do quite w’oll in ordinary garden soil, but like most bulbs must have reasonable drainage. The most common variety is the white speciosum alba but the yellow one is the most conspicuous as well as one of the best and largest flowers.

As they bloom in late summer or early winter they may be grown in dry spots. They will grow very well against the house or by steps where the stone or concrete has a tendency to draw the water out of the soil.

There are quite a number of varieties ranging from white and yellow lilac and violet, and all intermediate colours. They are all quite hardy locally and unlike the spring flowering crocuses multiply freely. They are really well worth growing.