OUR PARIS LETTER

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 19846, 21 May 1927, Page 19 (Supplement)

OUR PARIS LETTER

THE LATEST FROM FASHIONLAND (By Diana Dane.) (Specially written for the * * Chronicle. ” The pleasant feast of new fashions Is spread, and the epicure in dress has an almost tantalising variety of new models from which to choose. Everything is perfectly simple, of course, for the woman with a well-filled purse; if a somewhat outre creation appeals to her, she can purchase it, wear it for a while and then discard it. But for the woman whose dress allowance —and therefore her wardrobe —is limited, there is one watchword: Go carefully! There are pitfalls for the unwary in the form of vivid colours —beautiful colours, no doubt, but still unduly vivid lor the one-new-suite-a-season woman; there are intricate patterns and unusual designs which, unless they can be varied frequently, arc sure to become something of a burden as the season goes on. To be compelled, for example, always to go out in the morning in the same brilliantly checked or striped costume; the same green or red hat; the same fanciful shoes, and the same, gaily embroidered gloves, would eventu ally become a nerve-racking ordeal. Sr avoid temptation in the form of bright colours if you cannot have- a change occasionally. Chic Simplicity. At * recent dress show I saw one or two ideal morning toilettes for the woman of medium means. One was a neat little affair in navy blue rep, de liciously soft and supple, and cut or linos which could not fail to give the illusion of slimness even where slimness was not! The skirt, short and straight, was pleated in groups at each side of both back and front panels, the panels themselves remaining perfectly plain. The coat, hip-length and “man-tail-ored” was similarly pleated, so that • ong, continuous lines of pleats appeared to extend from shoulder to hem —very graceful and very effective in maintaining slender contours! And here came the green hat* It was a ’•‘afy-green hat, trimmed with a narrow band of navy grosgrain ribbon ami a neat little feather tuft on one side. So much “safer” and in so much better taste, than an all-green ensemble! Another coat and skirt, in soft grey, showed indefinite, broken white stripes -—pin stripes we used to call them. This was worn with a crisp white organdi blouse with a frilled jabot, and

little frills pepping from under the sleeves and falling over the grey gloves. Here the red hat came into its own, very beautifully and very becomingly. and was kept in countenance by the red leather pochette and the red leather “flowers” in the lapel of the coat. Hand-Knitted. Modes. Tn one salon T saw a knitted silk juniper suit; it was a very “exclusive” jumper suit and the only one of its kind. There is no reason, however, why it should not bo copied so far as colour scheme and general effect are concerned. The colour of this very exclusive suit, then, was rather dark stone as to jumper, with thin lines of a soft “art” blue introduced at the hem. The skirt, in regards slimness and good fit. and it was so knitted that it appeared to be pleated, although actually, of course, there was not a single pleat to get out of order. There is a certain shade of buff, too, that looks admirably with scarlet if you must have a bright colour, and certainly knitted suits are inexpensive enough to warrant this one small indiscretion. Tucks Versus Pleats. Apart from the groups that appear at the sides or in front of skirts, pleats seem to have given place very definitely to tucks. And a skirt that is tucked vertically all round is certainly a more practical proposition than the one that is pleated. The effect is practically the same, but there is a great saving of professional pressing because the tucks, which arc stitched all the way down, can so easily be kept in order by the amateur. Tucks also appear in horizonal rows on some very delightful models in crepe-de-chine, voile and organdi. The skirts are naturally full, and the graduated rows of tucks arc reminiscent of the first “party frock” of the schoolgirl. On these dainty little dresses the waistline is decidedly raised, and the bodice which is also tucked, is decidedly pouched. Often there is a twisted ribbon to mark the junction of bodice and skirt; and often again there is a quaint little manycoloured posy of slk flowers set right in the centre front of the waistline.