NEW GROUND FOR THE MOTORIST

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume LXXXII, Issue 19443, 31 October 1925, Page 19 (Supplement)

NEW GROUND FOR THE MOTORIST

HOLLAND IN TRANSITION (By H. Massac Buist) 1 wenty years ago I used to suggest that if you finished business to-night and wished to wake up on the Continent to-morrow morning under conditions presenting the greatest contract with those under which you lived at home, the best way to achieve that would bo to take a boat to Holland. But it was not then tan over good country for motoring, for the roads were nine inches or a foot deep in drydust, or could present even more embarrassing conditions in the guise of mud. But picturesque costumes were visible on all hands, together with a system of life utterly different from our own. Nevertheless as motorists knew it then Holland was much akin to what those imagine it to-day who have never entered the country—a land of unrelieved flatness. I have just returned, however, from a tour of the Netherlands over roads 50 per cent of which are, of ever-varying gradient and direction, being among hills and woods, therefore utterly unlike the general

conception of Holland. Yet our routes have been linked by stretches of going across Dutch scenery such as the stay-at-home Englishman imagines, consequently there lifts been much change of prospects.

i‘ is far from my purpose to give an outline of this particular tour, however. for one thing because the time available dictated that should do far greater mileage each day than would the average holidfty-maker proceeding at leisure; for another, because it is well worth the while of the motorist to plan a tour of a week, of ten days, of a fortnight, of three weeks or of a month’s duration in Holland, ascording to his convenience, consequently any one itinerary and time-table could be of no general service. Therefore my object is merely to touch briefly on changes the motorist on tour may notice in Holland as the result of the lapse of two decades, and to show how simple it is to enjoy' facilities many of which are available in no other country'. No Language Difficulties The first point to make plain is that Holland really presents no language difficulties: English will carry you almost everywhere and, should that fail, a phrase or two of French or Germftn or, perhaps, better still, a women* of pantomime, will procure you the assistnee you seek. The second point is hat nowhere within an equal mileage •m vou come upon so many points of

contrasted interest. Doubtless owing to amplitude of cheap and quick transport facilities by water, the towns and villages are extraordinarily close set — the clean, smokefree country carries a population of approximately seven and a-half millions, owning 4,000,000 pedal bicycles—though Rotterdam, Amrestdam and such like centres apart, roost of the towns are little more than large villages. Nevertheless, they have buildings dating back hundreds of years, and are of the highest artistic interest and of solid material wealth, the traveller by roftd realising that Holland, like most other Empires, is composed of a .variety of nations each of which offers a peculiar and growing ; nt erest.

In the interval since first I made acquaintance with the so-called low countris by road, of course there has been, as in other lands, a very’ gradual abandonment of the picturesque local costume. Though you find native garb donned in almost every' district, the plain fact is that, for the most part, it is put on chiefly for visitors. If, however, you would go where it is worn for its own sake daily, and not for visitors, then you must approach Holland by’ the Folkestone-Flushing route because it is on the Island of Zeeland that you still behold the most interesting examples of the national costume in constant and general use. Nor is this method of approach difficult; indeed, I know none easier. You have not to give the Automobile As-

sociation, or the Royal Automobile Club long notice. August rush-time apart, you can decide overnight to start for Holland on the morrow and accommodation will be found at Folkestone on the Zeeland Steamship Company’s boats, which are the largest on the Channel services and, in my experience, the best managed. The car can be driven on to the quay at Folkestone. two hours before starting time and, in the non-rush season, at even a shorter interval. I would point out, however, that accommodation per boat is at present limited to about 12 cars only because those lines carry a deal of cargo. Catering by this service is on the hotel principle, and every employee conveys the impression that he is wholly at your .disposal. Special rates arc available for return tickets, care falling under two categories, those the wheelbase of which does not exceed JI foot, and those in which it docs. At Flushing the hotel accommodation has been developed notably during the last twelve months; instance the superposing of an additional storey on the Hotel Britannia. Other hotels have been developed in synchronism, therefore it is not necessary to start off immediately on landing; nor is it needful to proceed home by the first boat, on arrival at the coast if the condition of the sea is unfavourable in the judgment of the individual traveller.

Useful Hints and Tips It is not merely the extraordinary variety of interests that Holland offers to the motorist within small coin pass that constitutes its attraction to-day. I find that in the interval since first I knew the country the road problem has been taken in hand to good purpose. Most of the surfaces are gravelled and are being treated with tar to make them dustproof, a work which is merely beginning, therefore the situation in this respect is improving daily. Again, many roads are built of small bricks, therefore they are excellently dustless, and of smooth surface. Others consist of stone sets. As in our country, so in Holland of course, occasionally you come (across stretches of road that are none too good. But as it is not a terrain for fast motoring, there being no occasion for that albeit you can speed along at 50 miles an hour if that ho your wash, any wellbuilt car will serve your purpose.

The next, important thing from the point, of view of the motorist is that garage accommodation is being provided in advance of the actual use of motor vehicles, by contrast with the ordinary form of evolution of the movement whereby demand has always preceded supply. I find that the Dutch mechanics are apt land careful. Charges are modest. Hotel accommodation, not tn one centre merely, but throughout the. country, is now of a character which certainly is beyond the average in this country. No nation has ever understood and practised the art of cleanliness in the house fts the Dutch have done and do. But to that has now to be added the fact that almost throughout the country you shall find, at moderate prices—say 10s to 12s (id a. day, full board inclusive—bedrooms with fixed washing basins, generally with hot as well as cold water. The science of sanitation is practised in up-to-the-moment fashion.

A Collection For those who are interested in architecture the country is extraordinarily I rich, as it is in respect of world-famous | pictures and sculptures; or, if the in- : dividual motorist has no tastes in those directions, he shall find, instead, sport I in the way of fishing or sailing; while I the lover of the picturesque open air . life shall find the opportunity to enjoy new land and seascapes in great plenty and to procure with his camera souvenI irs of his tour. Perhaps the latest form of enterprise is that somewhat formidably styled the open air museum just outside Arnhem. It is a wellchosen estate in rolling wooded country, whereto are being transported and set up all manner of structures of i picturesque, historic, and public interest ! such as the march of civilisation is I gradually causing to vanish from HolI land. Instance the example of the I earliest forms of windmills, which turn as it were on their bases; of the middle period construction whereby the windmills pivoted about halfway up the structure; and the late form, which pivots at the top only. Again, here you shall find the smallest human 1 residence in Holland—a bachelor fisherman's hut; also farmhouses of all classes and periods including those wherein cattle and human beings dwell under one roof, every establishment having its dairy and looms for weaving the cloth for the peasants’ garments. This is merely the beginning of a very interesting folk movement which is the natural complement to that admirable work that is being done in Holland to preserve interesting period architecture in situ. Wo have in this country no attempt to preserve English fisher and farmer life in this fashion. One would like to make the suggestion that, if anyone has 50 or 100 acres of picturesque and accessibly situated land to give for a site for such a collection, ft very good work could ho undertaken at relatively small cost in collecting, while they yet remain, old-tirno yeomen and labourers’ habitations. In Holland they recognise that this movement has begun only just in time; these things disappear very rapidly fts the era of motoring and aerial travel advances. But the Dutch peasantry and tradespeople have entered laudably into the spirit of the movement by inftking generous gifts of national costume, appliances and domestic utensils.