PARIS LETTER

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume LXXXII, Issue 19443, 31 October 1925, Page 20 (Supplement)

PARIS LETTER

(All Rights Reserved.) (From Pauline Courlander.) The dress shows have revealed new colouring and materials rather than drastic changes of outline.- AVe arc still slim and long-waisted, though not quite so long-waisted as we have been during the last two seasons. We are still short-skirted, though not ejuite so short-skirted; and we still have to remain flat backed.

The Flounced Frock. A good many flounces arc seen on the new frocks. These are generally set on the skirt in an irregular way; they slope cross-ways or curve down to the front from the sides, but do not go straight round the skirt. Whether it be draped or flounced or godet, a frock must be slim and tight on the hips, and flat at the back. Exquisite Workmanship. The workmanship is better than ever. AVonderful machine stitching is used on tailor made costumes, and wonderful handwork on afternoon and evening frocks. The best crepe de chine, georgette, lace, and lame frocks are entirely hand made, and the embroideries are something to dream of; they are not used in large quantities, but rely on quality for their decorative value. Leather Trimming. Gold leather is used for trimming cloth and satin suits. Sometime* it is cut up into geometrical or floral patterns, and embroidered in silk. Both gold and silver leather are used with lame or metal laec evening frocks. A magnificent evening frock was made of slightly draped gold brocade veiled with brown tulle with touches of gold leather. The tulle was put on the bodice quite plainly, and gathered rather fully on to the skirt. Rainbow Silks. Shaded silks are being used in rainbow colours; also graduated designs of trees, flowers, or geometrical figures, diminishing in size from the hem towards the neck. The Exposition des Arts Decoratifs has launched some lovely and amusing silks in cubist patterns and futurist colouring. AVhen rightly made up they arc not nearly so startling as they sound, and they will probably have a considerable success. A dress of one of these silks is worn with a plain capo or coat; or a coat that Joseph might have envied with a plain silk or crepe frock. Ways With the Jabot.

Satin, in a not too shiny variety, is a great favourite. Black satin is used again for simple .afternoon frocks with lace or muslin jabots and cuffs. The jabot is a very important accessory and is arranged in many hitherto undreamt of ways. It may even wander over the shoulder and down the back of a frock. Items of Interest. Racking is used a great deal, and so also is drawn-thread work, even on the most unexpected materials. The tunic is not so obvious in the new collections. it does appear, it generally has a spreading hem and a flat back. Petal trimmings are seen on tulle and georgette frocks, and on the more elaborate evening capes. They give an impression of greater fulness to the skirt.

THE INDIFFERENT HOSTESS UF-TO-DATE SOCIAL ETIQUETTE. Modern social etiquette has decided that to be a thoroughly up-to-date hostess you must be an indifferent one. Quite a long time ago, it was voted bad form to fuss and harass your guests with pleadings to take 4 just a little more chicken,’ continued offers of cigarettes, and enquiries as to the comfort of the chairs. To-day we have gone more than one better—or worse. The modern hostess wears a detached air when she gives a dinner party. Her well trained servants, will, of course, hand a dish twice, but if the second helping is refused, the hostess is quite indifferent. If the guest, in her timidity, takes but a spoonful, the hostess appears not to notice. If, after dinner, she chooses one of the less cosy chairs, no one will remark the fact; if she feels uncomfortable, she must move to another—if she likes.

Cigarettes arc in the box; if the guest cares to smoke, she has only to help herself. Her host and hostess expect her to help herself. If she doesn’t, she loses the cigarette—that is all there, is to it. No one fusses any longer about footstools or pillows. If you/need one, you must either grab or ask straight out for it. Alay be this reaction from the 4 pressing’ business of the A’ictorians is calculated to put a good many guests at their case, and make them feel as much at home as in their own house. But the less adaptable find it chilling, and would appreciate a little more attention. The perfect hostess will at any rate know how to adapt herself to her various guests.

THE SPINSTER I have seen her with tho children, as she played her mother-part; I’ve watched her patient, workworn hands, until it hurt my heart . . . I’ve seen the sunlight shining on the silver in her hair; and in the smile transfiguring the face so lined with care . . . I’ve heard her voice and gallant step grow young again, and gay —when children’s voices, children’s feet, adoring led the way through meadowland and woodland dell to temples made of trees, and shrines of flowers, where children’s looks proclaimed her one with, these .... A temple where wild heart of youth was soothed to happy rest; a shrine where childhood’s joy might bring its rapture to he blessed . . . O spinster-woman! how that name your mother-eyes deny! O heart of man, so deaf, so blind, that passed such beauty bv! HELEN SEVREZ.

FASHIONS IN FACES COMPLEXION NOTES. Sunburn is still fashionable for the nonce, but the 4 sunburn’ make-up is us il in the main by the brunette. La Aledo permits the fair type to retain her natural purity of skin. But the beautifully finished and exquisitely 4 groomed’ look of that transparent complexion is not attained,. Alesdaraes, without recourse to the cosmetics box. Cosmetics are, however, applied with skill, and very lightly. It is 4 goodbye’ to the thick liquid powders and violent-hued lipsticks, among all the feminine circles that 4 count’; and ‘goodbye’ to the unvarying style of make-up which those two items achieved. Aluch more subtlety and restraint is being, exercised; and just a sou peon of powder dusted on the ‘foundation’ of vanishnig cream, with the merest touch of ‘natural’ red lipstick (as distinct from the crude French rouge), is bon ton to-day.

AN INFALLIBLE CHOICE. The lustrous beauty of Bear Brand Silk Hose is simply irresistible, its quality unsurpassable. Search out the highest priced hosiery and compare with Bear Brand at 4/6 (No. 102), and 5/11 (No. 105). You will choose Bear Brand without hesitation. Every pair is guaranteed to give you complete satisfaction. Have no other.

Sufferers from Summer colds will enjoy speedy relief by breathing in * 4 NAZOL.’-’ A unique never-failing remedy, 1/6 for 60 doses.

HINTS AND RECIPES. Use cotton to mend gloves, rather than silk; it shows less and is stronger. An asbestos mat laid over a gas stove is useful when slow, even cooking is required. To raise the pile on plush, sponge it with a little chloroform, and it will look fresh and new again. When measuring golden syrup or treacle, dip the measuring spoon or cup first into boiling water, and the syrup will pour out quickly. To Clean A Rusty Grate. If a grate bo very rusty, blacklead it thoroughly, and leave the wet blacklead to dry on it for a day or two. Then clean the grate in the usual way. It will polish beautifully, for the blacklead will have eaten oil the rust. To Mend Amber. A good cement for amber ornaments is made by dissolving a bit of amber in chloroform. Apply this to the broken pieces, which should be previously warmed. To Clean Navy-Blue Serge. Try soaking the stained part of a costume in petrol. When well soaked, squeeze dry, hang in the air, and get rid of the smell of petrol, and finally press with a hot iron used over a damp cloth. To Get Rid of Flies. A good method of ridding the house of flies is to soak a sponge, in boiling water, then drop on it a little oil of lavender. Leave the sponge in a bowl. The pleasant scent which results is one which flies do not like. They will quickly depart. Don’t Use Soda.

When washing china ornamented with gilding, for the soda will, in time, surely take off every vestige of gold from the pattern. Soap may be added to the water, and it will do the work of cleansing without roughening the hands. In cold weather especially, soda has a effect on the skin.

Stains On The Hands.' Common bran is one of the most efficacious cleansers. Take a small quantity into the palm, moisten it with water, and rub it well all over the fiards, wash off with tepid water and the hands will be perfectly clean. Oatmeal and the juice of a lemon are also most successful cleansers and whiteners, and for a quarter of a yard or so tomato is also good for removing ink stains from the fingers. A Home-Made Polish. For a good home-made polish for gold and silver ware, silver, brass, copper, tin, steel, or any material on which a brilliant lustre is required, take 41b of the best quality of whiting, Alb of cream of tartar, and 3oz of alcined magnesia. Mix these ingredients thoroughly together. Use the polish on a piece of flannel or wash-leather previously damped with water, and finish off each article with a dry rubbing. In a few moments a lustre is produced that is very superior to that which results from the ordinary efforts of the home polisher.

A Cheap Substitute for Putty. Suitable for stopping cracks in floors and other woodwork, is made by soaking newspaper in a paste made by boiling 11b of flour in three quarts of water, and adding a teasponful of alum. This mixture will be about the consistency of putty, and it should be forced into the cracks with a knife. It will harden when it dries, and then may be painted to match the boards. If the cracks be neatly stopped, they will, when painted, be hardly perceptible.

Floor Rugs. Are apt to turn up at the corners after they have been in use a little while, and sometimes people think the only remedy for this is to nail them to the floor. That is a bad remedy, for the nailing prevents their being taken up and shaken whenever the room is swept, and it is quite unnecessary. In stead the housewife should buy some furniture webbing, and sew it along the under side of the rug at the cornesr, and for a quarter of a yard or so beyond them. If the sides of the rug show a tendency to curl, it will be well to carry the webbing the whole way round. This will not take long to do, the cost of the webbing is trifling, and it will greatly prolong the usefulness of the rug. When Blackberries Are In Season! Blackberry Jelly (1). —Crush in a mortar three pounds of blackberries, place them in a basin, and this in another of hot water to extract the juice, standing them in the oven the while. Boil two ounces of islinglass in rather less than a pint of water, with a pound of loaf-sugar, until both are melted. Strain the juice, mix with it the juice of a lemon, let it stand to cool; and, when the isinglass-syrup is also cool (not cold), mix juice and syrup in equal quantities; fill the mould or moulds, and let them stand till sot. Blackberry Jelly (2). —Take the berries when ripe, mash them, and let them drain through a bag, without squeezing it. To each pint of juice put a pound of white sugar, and the beaten white of an egg to three pounds of loaf sugar. Set it on the fire; when it boils up well, take it from the fire and skim it clear. Set it back on the fire; if any more skum rises, take it from the fire, and skim it off. Boil it till it becomes a jelly, which is ascertained by taking a little of it up into a tumbler of cold water. If it falls to the bottom in a solid mass, it is sufficietly boiled. Blackberry Mould.—Put one pound of ripe blackberries into a puddingbasin, place this in a larger one of hot water, put a plate on the top, and let it remain in the oven until the fruit is soft. Press out all the juice and mix it with rather more than a pound of apples, previously pared, cored, and cut into quarters; put both together into a preserving pan; let them boil for half an hour, and then add three quarters of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar; let it boil for ten minutes more, stirring with a spoon, when it will be ready to put into the mould, which should be of earthenware. A little grated lemonpeel should be added. Blackberry Wine.—To make a wine equal in value to port, take ripe blackberries, press the juice from them, let it sta~d thirty-six hours to forment (lightly covered) and skim off whatever rises to the top; then, to every gallon of the juice add one qurter of water and three pounds of sugar (brown will do), let it stand in an open vessel for twenty-four hours; skim and strain it, then barrel it. Let it stand eight or nine months, when it should be bottled, and corked close. It improves by this.