EVEREST EXPEDITION

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume LXXXI, Issue 19049, 30 June 1924, Page 10

EVEREST EXPEDITION

FIGHT AGAINST WIND AND ' , ALTITUDE. LONDON, June 2’6. Mr. Norton, of the Everest expedition, in a despatch dated June 8, from , the campt at a height of 17,000 ft. . east of Rongbuk Glacier, relates the j almost superhuman difficulties of the final assault, especially the demeanour of the native porters, which was enough , to daunt the hardiest spirits. It had been already decided to modify the origins?! plans, owing to . the moral and physical exhaustion of the native porters. It was anticipated . that few would have been available to assist the climbers above 23,000 ft., ' and that the climbers would discard the oxygen apparatus for at least two attempts to reach the summit, sleeping two nights on the mountain abovje

23,000 ft. The weather was thou al- j most perfect, and the peak stood out clear-cut in an azuro sky. Symptoms of the monsoon had disappeared, but the explorers knew that a monsoon might at any moment burst with full force. Fifteen picked porters, distinguished by the name of “Tigers,” were assembled, and the stage set for the final attempt. The weather continuing perfect. Mallory, Bruce and nine “Tigers” established a camp on the North Col on June 1, and began the ascent of the Great North Ridge on the 2nd in order to establish Camp No. 5, but suddenly a bitter north-west wind nearly blew the porters off their feet. Progress was one long fight against wind and altitude, sometimes on rock and sometimes, on snow, at an angle of 45deg. It was hoped to establish camp No. 5 an the sheltered side of the ridge, at 2&,000ft. At 25,000 ft. the endur- I

I ance of the porters began to flag, and only four reached the camp. The remaining five dropped their burdens. Bruce and one “Tiger” were forced to make several trips to bring up,th# stores. White men cannot carry loads at**i these altitudes with immunity, and it is scarcely to be wondered at that Bruce’s heart was strained, though happily only temporarily. Thus Camp No. 6 was established. Three picked porten were retained, and the remainder sent back. Obviously everything depended i upon the morale and physical condi tics of those three.