PICKING OUT SEEDLINGS

Wairarapa Times-Age, 7 August 1940, Page 3

PICKING OUT SEEDLINGS

HINTS WORTH NOTING. Seedlings should fie pricked out into boxes or beds as soon as they are large enough to handle easily, and before i'hey become overcrowded, drawn up and spindly. The soil in the seed pots or pans is not intended to sustain them for long; they require one which is richer and heavier and which will encourage the development of roots so that the plants can be planted out with a ball of soil and. therefore, sustain as little check as possible. I have frequently emphasised the importance of growing on our plants from the seedling stage to the full development with as little check as possible to get the best results. The soil mixture for seedlings should consist of seven parts loose bulk of loam, three part flaky lcafmould, two parts coarse sand, and to every bushel of this mixture add IJoz coarse bonemeal. lloz superphosphate, and lAoz oyster grit. This mixture, which should be sterilised if possible to avoid weeding, should be put through a half-inch sieve and the rough material when mixed with an equal quantity of stable manure used for the bottoms of the boxes.

It is belter to have a standard-sized box which will fit into the frames or on to the greenhouse bench and one which is 20 inches long. 15 inches wide, and 3A inches deep would be suitable. Holes should be made in the bottom for drainage, and it is better to use light wood, which can be tarred on the inside if desired. A box this size will hold 70 seedlings, with plenty of room for the foliage and roots io develop to the planting-out stage. When preparing the boxes, put about an inch of the rough materials in the bottom, then fill up with the soil, firming it down until it is about half an inch below the rim, to hold water when watering.

It is most important that the seedlings be spaced evenly so that each has the same room to develop and 10 rows of seven plants each should be marked out before transplanting commences. This is easily dene with, a stout board which fits into the box. having a lead-headed nail driven in to mark the place each seedling is to occupy. The seed boxes or pans should be well watered flic night before, so that the seedlings may lay in a stoj - e ol water to lido them over until their roots are again active, and to help to hold the particles of soil on to the fine fibrous roots.

Lift the seedlings carefully with a blunt pointed stick, make a hole deep enough and wide enough to allow the roots to drop in without twisting or bending in any way. and then press the soil firmly and evenly all round the roots. Water well and stand in the warm, greenhouse or hot frame for i few days until the roots lay hold of the new soil and growth commences. They should also be shaded from strong sunshine at first, and the atmosphere kept close to avoid undue loss .-.(' moisture until the root hairs are again active.

Afterwards they can be placed out into a cold frame which is kept fairly close and shaded al first, but later air is given whenever weather conditions are favourable and soon the sashes can bo left oil' all day. The aim should be to secure strong, sturdy growth under as cool conditions as possible for all hardy plants, and as soon as the danger of frost is past they should be stood outside altogether on a bed of ashes, in a position sheltered from strong south-west winds. When dealing with, very small seedlings such as tuberous anil fibrous begonias and gloxinias and streptoctirpus. it is better to prick out twice as close as for other seedlings. and as they develop to transplant a second time.