GARDENING NOTES.

Waipawa Mail, Volume LXVI, Issue 70, 2 March 1938, Page 4

GARDENING NOTES.

THE WORK OF THE WEEK. VEGETABLES. Onions should be lifted as soon as the tops commence to turn color. If the plants are affected with mildew, ' it is also best to lift them and dust, them over with diy sulphur, and leave j them out in the sun till properly dry ! for storing. Potatoes should also be lifted as soon as ready. During damp, humid weather the plants are apt to contract “blight,” and also the tubers frequently start into secondary growth and are ruined. It is better to dig them while immature than to allow them to start growing again. The ground is in ideal condition for planting any of the cabbage tribe for winter and spring supplies. Dip the tops in a solution of arsenate of lead before planting out as a protection against “fly.” Lettuces, radishes, spinach, turnips, and silver beet may be sown. French beans may still be sown. Earth up celery. Before doing so, all dead or dying leaves and any side growths should be removed and a dusting of lime and soot scattered along the trenches and round the plants. Clean up all refuse and turn over vacant ground, giving a dressing of lime. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Grass is making very rapid growth just now. Lawns should be mown at fairly frequent intervals, otherwise the coarse grasses smother out the finer ones. Plant out pansy and viola cuttings. Geranium cuttings may also be taken. Early-flowering sweet peas which have been raised in pots or boxes may be put out into their flowering quarters. The ground should be deeply dug. Continue to plant all spring-flower-ing bulbs and roots. Evergreen hedges may be clipped and any trees of this class which require it may be pruned to keep them in proper shape. Mak a regular inspection of all tallgrowing plants and replace any stakes or ties which are broken. Cut off the flowering stems of delphiniums, and other tall plants which have finished flowering. Keep the soil loose around bulbs, being careful not to damage the young growth just showing through. Plant out seedlings of hardy plants. Many of this class will flower throughout the winter if planted out now. Cut off any seed pods which have formed on roses and remove weak growths from the centres of the bushes. LOAM AND LEAF MOULD. It is frequently recommended in gardening books that “fibrous loam” or “leaf mould” are the best materials to use for the raising of certain plants or for filling seed boxes and pots, but quite a number of amateurs are in doubt as to what these are, and in what condition they should be used. Fibrous loam is merely soil which has abundance of fibre in it. The fibres are the fine roots of any plants which have been growing in the ground. Turfy loam is the top spit, some three or four inches deep, of pasture land. It may sometimes be procured on suburban roadsides. The best is obtained from old. sheep pasture that has been down for years—the older the better —the kind of turf that when cut docs not readily break up, the matted grass roots holding it together. The turf should be dug up and stacked, grass side downwards, in a square stack, and left for from six to eighteen months until it has rotted. It is not always convenient to wait so long, however, and when the loam is required at short notice the grass may be skimmed off to a depth of an inch or so with a sharp spade and the next three inches of soil be used. This gets rid of most of the weed seeds, and the soil obtained is still rich in plant foods. Leaf-mould is formed of leaves kept moist and in a heap, frequently turned over, until completely decayed, and reduced to a dark brown, moist powder. It usually takes two years to complete the process. Old rotted material gathered up in the bush is composed very largely of rotted wood, and as this is liable to contain various fungus spores it is dangerous stuff to use for any valuable pot plants. Where leaf mould is required tor any special purpose and cannot be obtained, rotted horse manure, rubbed through a sieve to break up any lumps

WHAT TO DO AND HOW TO DO IT.

and remove any long straws, -acts as a good substitute, and is far better than using unsuitable material. Soil for pots should be mixed ready for use several months before it is required for potting, and be turned over several times to allow it to become thoroughly “sweet.” The moisture content of the soil for potting is important. When it is soft, warm, and does not stick to the hands, but remains in position when it is squeezed, and does not fall away to crumbs again, it is right. This condition is easily obtained if the soil is mixed in good time, as advised above, and stowed away in some dry comer of a shed where rain cannot reach it. RANUNCULUS. When well grown few bulbous or rooted plants surpass the ranunculus. The brilliantly colored flowers produced in profusion on long wiry stems make a very bright display over several months. They do best in a cool, moist position provided the ground is well drained, well cultivated, and rich. The roots may be planted now. The ground having been well worked and manured, push the roots into the soil to a depth of three inches. Plant from four to six inches apart in beds or in clumps if preferred. The roots should be planted with the claws downwards. Keep the plants moist during the flowering season. TOMATO MOTH. This pest attacks tomato plants close to the ground and affects them much in the same manner as collar rot. The pest attacks the plants usually just as the fruit is ripening, and so prevents it coming to maturity. The remedy is to spray with arsenate of lead combined with Bordeaux mixture, this being applied to the plant in the usual manner. The base of the plant should receive special attention, as this part is most susceptible and an early application may save it from attack. Above all, it should be remembered that plants which have already been attacked should be destroyed by fire, to prevent further infection. This applies to all members of the potato family, which are prone to suffer from diseases which are easily transmitted from one season to another. SILVER BEET. This is a good substitute for spinach and may be more easily grown where the ground gets too dry for spinach to be satisfactory. Seed may be sown now, or if preferred the plants may be purchased. The plants transplant very readily if well watered at the time of the move. If kept growing well the plants attain a considerable size, and half a dozen will be ample for the average household. Growth should be encouraged by frequent applications of liquid manure or nitrate of soda in liquid form. Allow at least eighteen inches between the plants each way when planting, to give ample room to develop. VEGETABLES “BOLTING.” Complaints are often heard that various vegetable crops are running to seed prematurely. This is known as “bolting” and is caused in most eases by starvation either through lack of moisture or insufficient or incorrect food supplies. The greatest possible drain on the strength of a vegetable is the process of flowering and. seed bearing. The development of flower heads can only be condoned in special cases—as with the globe artichoke, for instance, where the immature flower head is the edible portion of the plant, or where home-grown seed is aimed at. In most cases, as soon as it is observed that a vegetable plant is running up a flower head, the plant should he pulled up and destroyed, as it is useless, and if allowed to remain is merely a drain on the soil. WHITE BUTTERFLY. Complaints are heard from all quarters of the ravages of the white butterfly caterpillars and certainly, judging by the clouds of the butterflies seen about the garden, this pest seems worse this year than formerly. Dusting plants susceptible to attack with Derris powder will keep them free from the pests but it must he realised that one dusting, unless followed up at intervals of 10 days or so will not prove satisfactory. Derris powder is non-poisonous and may be used on cabbages or other edible plants without detriment. Derris powder is put up in tins under the name of “Derri dust ”