TRAVEL IN WAR TIME.

Waipawa Mail, Volume XXXVII, Issue 7914, 4 August 1917, Page 2 (Supplement)

TRAVEL IN WAR TIME.

SYDNEY TO PAGO PAGO. (Contributed by C. G. Y.) JUNE 1. 1917. Sydney harbour presented a fine sight with its myriads of bays, inlets, coves, and pleasure resorts, on the afternoon of Wednesday, May ‘22nd, 1917 when the cleared her moorings, outward bound for San Francisco, via Pago Pago and Honolulu. The pilot was dropped at the heads at 5.30 p.m., and thus commenced our 19 clays’ run acros-3 the broad expanse of the Pacific-Ocean. The passenger list comprises 40 Ist Saloon and 24 2nd Saloon, a very small complement indeed. Very lew people travel for pleasure these troublesome times; the majority do to from necessity, not choice. A number on board nr*;, actors returning to the United States, other American citizens, some landowners, and also Australians who purpose making their future home in the land of the Stars ana Stripes. lam the only New Zealander aboard, so might well be termed “The Innocent Abroad.” Acquaintances wero soon found, games arranged, music provided, and what with the constant clatter of cups and saucers from morning till night, indicative of the goo-d fillings provided, the time passes pleasantly enough. The glorious weather which signalised our departure from Sydney remained wellnigh perfect, and day after day passed with beautiful cloudless skies and calm waters. The transparent moonlight nights, with the warm atmosphere fanned by a cooling summer breeze made life on shipboard extremely pleasant. The weather becomes gradually hotter each day, until, nearing Pago 0 days out, it becomes very oppressive. The - travels semi-dark-although I understand no authentic pronouncement lias been made from headquarters relative to the submarine menace, nevertheless every precaution is taken. Prior to our departure a rumour had gained currency in Sydney that the had been torpedoed in the Pacilc. The statement was, of counie, entirely without foundation, but it created no little consternation among some of our lady passengers. The * is fitted with wireless, and our little ocean company get much of the news of the world per medium of the “ Daily Telegraph” published each morning. The price is 1 dime per copy. (Fivepence our Coinage) Methinks many of our New Zealand friends would complain of the cost for a single sheet of foolscap, type written both sides. But we are mighty glad to receive it at the price, and daily obtain the latest war news, and other world happenings. In a recent copy appeared the following : *'N.Z. wireless station announce that no submarines have been reported in the Pacific Ocean, no warnings have been issued, no raiders reported”—to which we all heartily subscribe "Here! Here!”

Owing to the alteration in time on approaching the Equator, we gain one day between Sydney and Pago; and ->o actually had two Mondays in one week, founds peculiar, does it not? On the fifth day two islands were sighted (Samoan group), and as not a vestige of land had been seen since leaving. Sydney, the passengers were on the qui vive of expectation. There was nothing to be seen, however, but the surf dashing on the shore, and tropical growth on the Islands, which are uninhabited. On the Tuesdhy morning following the second Monday Pago Pago loomed on the horizon. Everybody was on the alert, for it meant freedom from the boundless Pacific, and a brief respite on land, amid scenes, surroundings, and a people unfamiliar to the majority. Pago Pago (Samoan island) is pronounced by the natives Pangn Panga. This is my first glimpse of American territory, and in fact, to most the first sight of a tropical island, and it was indeed a veritable scene of beauty. A.s tho magestically steams into tre magnificent and sequestered natural harbour of Pago Pago, the vista that, presents itself to you is at once pleasng and grand. This harbour is the crater of an extinct volcano, and is completely enveloped by high mountain peaks covered from tin* water’s edge by exquisite tropical foliage. The native huts dotted along the shore of tho Harbour, encircled by huge palm, coconut, bread-fruit trees, and other tropical growths, present a charming natural panorama. The native houses consist principally of large circular and oval thatched roofs on posts, very similar in design to the maori houses in New Zealand. There are also several more pretentious dwellings of modern type, a la bungalow style, built of timber and iron—demonstrating how Americanised the islanders are becoming. The quarters of the officers and government officials are quite pal-atial-looking residences. Our first visit was to the General Post Office and after posting letters and post cards to friends far away, we proceeded to inspect the Island. These Samoans are much like our Maoris in style and customs, but are of a distinctive coppery hue. Generally speaking, they are splendid specimens of manhood, due to their outdoor life and methods of living. I understand they aro not a long-lived race, owjjag doubtless to the excessive beat which prevails there practically throughout the year. Their simple food is fish, oranges, coconuts, and other fruits, so that from our standpoint of living the menu is a limited one. The day of our arrival the thermometer registered between 85 deg. and 90 deg. in the shade and, gee whiz! it was sweltering. A complete inspection of the Island disclosed one of the most beautiful spots imaginable; the glorious foliage fringed tho narrow pathway which encircles Pago and extends right into the crest of the highest peaks. Flora, tho Goddess of Flowers, must have remembered this quaint Pacific island in her dreams, for the natural colouring is so very exquisite. One of the sights that impressed and interested me was to see the native hoys climb the cocoanut trees, and pick the large cocoanuts growing profusely thereon. This done, they cut off the outside covering in a twinkle, and then offer them to buyers at a nickel each, 2Jd in our money. The price i* very reasonable, and they did a thriving trade with the passengers. There are thousands of these cocoanut tree.} on the Ida: d, and they form an imposing spectacle. Tho late Mark Twain once described the cocoanut tree “A FEATHER DUSTER STRUCK BY LIGHTNING.

prolxibly ?oause of it* light trunk and wide spreading palm like branches. Bo tilt* as it may, tlio myriads of these trees, tinged with-tre colouring of n tropical sunset, leave a lasting impression with the traveller. At the wharf, prior to the steamer’s departure, a unique sight was presented to our gaze. Hero were gathered together a motley collection of dusky-hued half-dressed natives, men and women, hoy* and girls, ready for BUSINESS! And thpn the fun commenced in real

earnest by the Native* endcavoa to sell, barter, or exchange theirv« which lasted until “the clocks the hour for retiring.” The Sara prefer to barter rather than sell tic*9, sox, shirts, caps, hats etc. readily exchanged for beads, clubs’ kets, fans, shells, and other cm Many of the passengers secured gem bargains for old, discarded g.irnie Largo numbers of the Islanders an in “Evening Dress”, viz., Nature's ment, with the exception of a cove around their loins. Their geld of brilliant colours is on a par with

-.iiioris, and they fairly revel in.su ling-lnied costumes, in which sum them appear quite picturesque, i dainty maiden (ahem!) about lcti was attired in the finest of pale I crepe do chine. This was a most( orate-looking turn out, doubtless changed by some wealthy Ameri lady tourist for a native fun or ba (procurable in the State; for proi a quarter —25 cents.) But then course, it would not have been | chased in Pago—hence the novelty,' another dusky belle appeared in most gorgeous orange coloured dra has been my pleasure to witnat third in a splendid vieux rose cretoi and last but not least, an old dun of about 75 summers I should say,i brilliant red tablecloth dexteroi wound round the centre of her anati —tlio rest —Nature.

It was all very interesting and structive and novel.

Pago Pago, population 5,000, k United States Naval and G ualiugi tion, acquired by the American (ion ment about 1899, and i.s presided I by a Governor appointed by tlie Le laturo of U.S.A. There is a fine! pital, electric light plant, and twon less stations from which message! transmitted to many parts of then A large number of U.S.A. Customsi other Government officials live on Island, and in their smart white at with navy and gold epaulettes and a tliey formed a fitting contrast to dusky warriors with copper-colon skins and quaint costumes. The all of the native police, too, is rather I consisting of navy-blue skirts frii with red extending to tlio knees,» singlets, and red and blue turban In gear. The finest specimens of Island are s.looted for thi-. service,i they look particularly well, and s around with a distinct air of imp anee. The Samoans anoint their bd with cocoanut oil, and the odour aro* the wharves when they are workiai not particularly agreeable. By greatest stretch of imagination, l could not say in the vernacular of I Maori when they experience a pie** aroma, “kapai the sweet hum!” ' Pago islanders do not tatoo theirn like so many tribes do, but the l majority aro tatooed from the down to the knee. They are eredi with living very moral lives, cm quently no very serious disease app* to exist. There are, however, sen cases of Elephantiasis, a skiu affed which causes the legs, arms, and! to swell abnormally. We saw *** sufferers whose limbs were svvollf* double and almost treble their no]

size, and they looked frightful.J case was cited to us of a native n leg? had developed to the size « body, but this individual did n<rt fl under our notice. Elephantiasis* 1 posed to have its origin through* excessively of fish, or per modml the venomous bites from roosq* and other tropical insects. i The arrival and departure of or.) at Pago is the signal of much « and excitement, and during »chj* tho island become* quite the h? ’the empire. Our farewell 3 isefl by the Native brass h ind ing music on the jetty, native daw canoe boats hovering round tl" 1 and islanders here, there, ana where chanting their charmiogjg an songs. It was our first with tropical life, and the variety was weird and pleasant to the senBut all good things must come» end, and punctually at 4 p.m. of j ship cut the painter, and shorty she was once more plough*®*, mighty deep. The ray* of tropical sunset tipped the hills gold as we steamed awav, an 0110 of the pearls of the Paci' |( penred from view, leaving with charming memories of South - |,:l life in it? native simplicity. 11l conclusion, Longfcllw » I"" 4 pear appropriate: Such scenes have power to f) 11 ' 6 The restless pulse of care. And come as the benediction That follows after prayer. , f And the night shall bo fll,pd music , i.r And the cores that invest the Shall fold their tents like the And as silently steal away.