THE LADIES’ COLUMN.

Waipawa Mail, Volume XVI, Issue 2715, 30 January 1892, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE LADIES’ COLUMN.

3r Rita. the foUowing useful hints on 4 * bone•ngr a waist from a foreign contemporary;— Bones or stays should be applied when the garment is read y for the facing along its lower edge, or after the facing has been sewed on but not turned over. Bones and stays are generally inserted before the sleeves and collars are though this is a point to be decided by ! the maker; but as a waist is likeiy to be twisted considerably in applying the bones, it will proc-ably be better to add the sleeves and colaltar the bones are in. The following aav>ce must be observed whether bones or stays ore -‘ed: When sewed in, the lower ends of bones or stays should be within about three- , eignt h» of an inch of the lower edge of a short 2**®“ *rtdch should be turned up over them and racked firmly to position before the top of the ie felled down; and it may here i?f_?s ntloned incidentally that it is generally neet to fit the facing to the bottom of the basque on the outside and machine stitch its lower •age, letting it remain on the outside until the bones are in, after which it may be turned ' underneath and felled down as suggested. Or, bones are all in and the lower edge is turned up over them, the facing may be fitted to the -asque on the under side, and both edges felled down. Before putting in the bones or stays it is advisable to bend them to the shape of figure—carving them in at the waist-line, ano, for the dart bones, rounding or bending OVe the tops to correspond with the curve of the figure at the bust. This will assist in preventuig the unsightly bulge often seen at the tops of oart*. which is produced by improperly adjusted bones or stays. At the tops of bones, and also at their lower ends, the B«ai_9 under them should be held a little eaiy *or a trifle full—a detail also preventive Of tee bulge just mentioned. The hollowing portions of seams only should be well stretched ana fastened firmly to the bones, especially at "the waistline of the garment; and this fastening Will vary with the different kinds of bones or staye used, but is easily accomplished with any of them. Another preventive of the bulging oa* of seams at the ends of bones or stays is to deave the latter loose for about an inch at their ’ but this cannot always be done, as of necessity some bones or Btay3 must be tacked their full - tngfch. Unless bones are to be inserted between the lining and outside of a garment, as generally seen in girdles, whalebones may be covered with bias strips of the waist lining fastened under the middle of the bone with overcasting stitches, and then sewed to the _ seams ; and this method will be greatly improved, and the bone prevented from slipping in its casing, if one edge of the latter is cemented to the bone underneath before the bone :s fully wrapped and the overcasting stitches are made. The cement used for the purpose should be of the kind generally used in cementing glass or china or any material having a P°bshed or glazed surface. The bones, when thus covered, should be sewed over the searr? through the under side of the covering, and Jc.xx be applied with the necessary stretching and fulling of the seams before mentioned. Another way is to sew on casings of tape or lining, and run the bones into them; and each casing should be turned down underneath the upper end of the stay or bone in it, in order to permit the end to remain loose or unattached to the seam edge when desirable, as before suggested. In sewing bias strips of lining to the seams for casings several methods may t a employed, one or two of the best being here given. Cut the strips just wide enough so that when they are sewed on they will tightly hold the bones or stays. One plan is to turn under the edges far enough to make the casing of the desired width, and then crease it through the centre so that the latter may easily be made to follow the seam ; then fell or neatly run the sides of the cashiers to position, or, with fancy eilk. cat-stitch them to place. The latter method produces a very neat effect. Or, after the sing has been folded and creased, run it along the crease at one side, and turn it over the seam and fell it down on the other side, taking care ;d keep the centre over the seam. Where a casing is bias there willbeno necessity for putting it on very full, as in the straight casings to be described below, because it will give with the seam, and for that reason will neither bind nor draw it. A straight casing put on tlat and plan: will not permit a seam to pull into the necessary position when the garment is worn, without a manifestation of its restricting limit. For this reason casing tape is much used in waists, as its edges are firmly finished with selvedges which permit the tape to be sawn on quite full and yet flatly along the hollowing parts of seams—something which cannot be neatly done with a casing turned under ut the edge. When a. casing tape is properly applied it locks, near the waist-line, almost as if it were gathered, being held so full at that point as it is run on. Above and below the waistline the casing should be applied with very little fulness in order that the bone may have sufficient strain along the seam to hold it smoothly in place ; this is not possible where too much fulness is allowed in the casing above and below the curve of the waist.

Another casing tape 8 double, and bones or stays may be run into it and then tacked along the seams as tightly as desired. It is sometimes necessary to sew directly through a whalebone, and holes may be drilled or punched for the purpose; or the bone may be soaked in hot water until it is soft, when the needle will easily push through it at any point. As it takes some time to soften bon?s by soaking, it is a gpod plan to put them in hot water at least half an hour before they are to be used. After bones are inserted they may be softened by the breath. To do this, hold the casing of the bone against the lips and force the breath through it upon the bone, being careful not to wet the fabr.c when there is a likelihood of its being injured thereby. In the shops whalebones of assorted lengths may be purchased with holes already made in the ends, and they are to be had in black or white, or nearly white, according to the colour of the dress. Where it is necessary to cut a whalebone to some particular length, the ends should be slightly rounded by clipping tho comers so that they will not wear through the

casings; and they may be made quite smooth by drawing them over a rough stone or a piece of sandpaper. Some dressmakers put a bone or stay in every upright seam of a waist, but this is not advisable when the side back seams are very rounding, unless a bone can be softened and bent sideways to follow the same curve. This is sometimes done: but if the other seams are boned or stayed tho sids-back seams seldom need staying. HOME AND FIRESIDE. Pastry Sandwiches. —Make a pound or a pound and a half of medium pastry, and line a long-shaped greased tin with it, after having rolled it out into a thin sheet: place it in a sharp oven, and bake it for a quarter of an hour, or until nicely browned, then turn it out of the tin, and cut it across in half. Spread one piece with any kind of preserve, and pres 3 the other one on it; cut it into neat shapes, and pile them up on a dish ; sprinkle sifted sugar over the saudwiches, and return them to the oven for a quarter of an hour, that the jam may get thoroughly heated. Gingkrette. —Pat two gallons of water, eight sliced lemons (with the seeds removed), and 2oz. of bruised ginger- root in aporcelainlined kettle, and boil 10 minutes. While this is boiling, put 41b. of granulated sugar in two gallons of cold water and loz. of cream of J until the sugar is well dissolved, -lum both liquids into a large stone crock, mix well, and add three-quarters of a teacupful of yeast. Let it ferment over night, and strain and bottle.

AChoioe Dessert.—This is mo3t easily presays Good Housekeeping. Line a pie plate with pastry and spread with strawberrv preserves. Sprinkle over this two tablespoonfuls OX grated almonds, mixed with one of powdered sugar. Bake until almost done, then SDread with meringue made in the following manner : Wfc i P Y? e hltea of two eggs until “stiff : add, gradually, two teaspoonfula of powdered su«*ar and a few drops of almond essence. .Tu3t before spreading the meringue stir in a tablespoonful ot grated almonds and when spread, sprinkle another spoonful over the top. Set in the oven a few minutes to brown.

Hop Bees. —To four quarts of water add two good handfuls of hops, about a dozen raisins, and a piece of whole ginger ; let it boil gently for two hours, taking care it does not boil over; then strain over three cups of Bottle when cool and cork well.

How to Preserve Mole Skins. —Nail the moleskin upon a piece of wood with the far aide towards the wood, then wash the skin side with atom water ; afterwards rub it with a little pumice-stone to get the rough off, and let it gay till dry. It must be washed three times. Place out of doors to dry, as it dries quicker so than in the house.

How to Clean Cotton Crochet. —Lay the crochet work in cold water for a few’honra, then wash it in warm soap and water ; wring *** a cloth till nearly dry, and then starch it. Wring it again, and keep pulling it oat before » fire until nearly dry, then iron it. Great care should be taken in the quality of the starch. Tender Feet can be cured by placing the feet in hot salt and water every night.