THE GARDEN

Waikato Independent, Volume XXII, Issue 2577, 27 July 1922, Page 6

THE GARDEN

AMONG THE ROSES THE ART OF PRUNING (By Rosarian). Of all the different, branches of work in connection with, the growing of roses, that of pruning is, perhaps, at once the most difficult, the most important, and withal, most interesting. It is an art that is never fully mastered, for there is no end to the scope or possibilities of controlling roses by pruning, as is proved by experience. It is impossible to put down any hard and fast rules regarding pruning, and say that these must be closely adhered to. However,-' there arc certain general rules that apply, and by observing these, and by the exercise of one's own common sense and profiting by experiments, a rosarian soon finds that he can seure good results, and gradually become more adept in the art. Pruning consists of two distinct operations: (1) Thinning out, which is the complete removal of all dead, weak, misplaced, unripe, or otherwise useless shoots; (2) The shortening of those shoots that are left, to such tin extent as to give the best chance of obtaining what is desired. The most frequent errors made in pruning art' (1) leaving too many shoots when thinning out; (2) pruning severely the varieties which require little, if any, shortening: (o) pruning lightly the varieties which require severe pruning; (4) leaving rose plants crowded with shoots and cutting these to a uniform length all over the plant, in the way that one would clip a hedge. In thinning out a shoot, it should be either cut clean away to the base of tho plant, or to the starting point on the,older shoot from which it springs, as the case may be. When the plant has been pruned tho'shoots should be left as nearly as possible equi-distant from each, other, and reguarly arranged round it, so that it present a wellbalanced appearance on all sides. When pruning a shept it should always be cut to a leaf bud,"or "eye" as it is called, pointing outwards. In order ,to keep Tthc' plants in a healthy and vigorous -condition, some of the shoots which arc more than two years old should each .year be removed, to make room for the .younger and more vigorous growths. Roses require to be somewhat differ: ■tfjatly pruned according to the purpose ,i'or which they are grown. For instance shoots -must be cut baek severely if the plant is required for the production of exhibition roses, but if for ordinary garden decoration the shoots must be left longer. If to form large bushes they must be left still longer, and if to clothe pillars, arches, etc., some of the shoots will scarcely require short-

cuing at all. j For exhibition purposes roses which ! are weak growers require to be cut hard back at the time of pruning. All dead, weak and unripe shoots must be cut away altogether, and the centre thinned out sufficiently to allow room for the new growth, which is to come after pruning. This done, only the, strongest and well-ripened shoots of previous year's growth '.will remain,

unci these should be cut back to within

three or four, or even two "eyes" from the base from which the shoot

started. If the plant is very vigorous, more wood may be left, the rule being that the weaker the plant the more severe should be the pruning. Hoses for garden decoration do not require so severe pruuiflg,.,but these are,,all the

better for a. good thinning out. of weak shoots .and .shortening, back of the vigorous, ripe shoots left.

Climbers require but little pruning, beyond the cutting away of dead shoots. Eamblers, or Wichuraianas, require somewhat different treatment to other roses. As the flowering laterals of next season will spring from the long shoots just formed, it is essential that these long shoots should be preserved when pruning. The pruning should be done in the early autumn, when the dead flowering stalks should be cut away.

It is difficult to say what is the best time to perform pruning operations. In the Cambridge district, I should say that from the middle of July to the middle of August is the best time. If pruning is done much earlier, the young shoots that follow are spoilt by the rigorous frosts. It is a good plan to extend the pruning over say three or four weeks, so as to have a succession Of flowering. The first flowering of a rose may be controlled to a certain extent by the period of pruning, and if one wants late blooms he should prune late, or vice versa.

Try us for Roses. AVc have a wide selection of good plants.—Jas. Kccley and .Son, Leamington; phone 250. Have you received one of our Descriptive Catalogues, just issued? If not, send for one—free on application. —Jas. Keelcy and Son, Nurserymen, Leamington.