IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 27 February 1914, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

OP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT

TO WEAR

"Have- you seen the new designs I'" j "Yes, but have you see)), the now materials?" j It is over the tea-eups., and it : takes precedence, of all other .subjects. Tlio now materials arc really wonderful, 7o per cent of the expression being clue to the "goods," and the balance to their novelty. Softness seems to be the. dominant feature, due to the prevailing craze for drapings. As for range it seems to compass everything, but the velvety ones lead, actual velvet, velveteen or those now weaves that seem to simulate either with equal success. Stripes and checks arc both to the fore, the latter small to large, and needless to say the two material dress is. likely to bo a general favourite. There are velours do laine, garbardine and duvt.yn as three marshals, and then without attempting to put them in order, peau do souris, silk crepe, broche, velveteen, cliifi fon, broadcloth, zibeline, corded silks, and woollen's, satin, etc., etc., \ etc., and still etc. The two effect is either by coat' in contrast to skirt, or the coat being open, by waistcoat in that relation. Or. if it is a case of blouse and skirt, then the < contrast is in that. But elegance calls for a dominating material and . fehade, and such will govern tho ensemble head to toe. Don't think that the Ha ring tunic is going to rule out simple lines, as it will not. The one governing note is the peg-top /silhouette for the skirt, the natural waist and tho "floppy looking" blouse. You may maintain this contour in draped effects, and equally as well with coats. The latter will certainly stand out a little from the sidos but not to a disfiguring extent. 'The arched front and pointed back is the smart note in the new coats, and with respect to skirts I. should like to say that the walking example has the least opening over foot, while many will have- none at all. In the case of the side draped

skirt, the front seam naturally ends nt about the ankle level, tin; edge*or' the garment being rounded. Where, however, the draping is from the front on one side only, there itno need to round more than one edge in keeping; while whore it is a ease of a straight Skirt 'or a skirt in tiers there is no call for n front opening at all. I'think I am right in saying that the loose draping effect .with blouso, and side draped pegtop skirt will bo first favourite. Then, the same kind of blouse and simple peg-top skirt, second, and so close up as to make it a case nearly of neck and neck. Then, the same kind of blouso once more with the tiered skirt, the tiers being straightlv cut or arched in_ front and semipointed at back. Then the same contour with coat-side effect _ to blouso, broken by belt, these sides scrolling by means of an overfold. Then the simple one-piece front side, seam from "cross-over," buttons or ornaments at intervals all the way down, or in sections. Then, the separate blouse and skirt, the former j pouchy with frilled fronts, and the | skirt, for preference, in three, the lowest section resttng into the middle and this into the long hip one. The low neck effect where this is rounded, or the V neck' for preference will be general, and with both we •shall have the frill, and in the latter type it will invariably stand out, but in cascade form. The coats will flare or not flare—-as you please. They too have drapy blouse sections, and generally speaking the sleeve will be deep at shoulder. The but-ton-across type may or may not dispense with a vestee effect; if not, then it will be in association with an oveivset collar. I contemplate such a selection with the ""-coat in duxtyn and the skirt in plaid, this latter serving for a collar from the "V" opening of the neck. The coat buttons across, thrice above girdle, and three buttons and similar loops are set below to finish, the coat being arched in front and point-rounded at back. Then the seam of the coat is met by that of the skirt, and six buttons in two sets of three are employed for a sympathetic /note. A strong style note in coats leaves the < fronts open; that is to say they are i designed to show the skirt, and j here, of course, there is a waistcoat, I the V of which is frilled, while the ' points show bolow the girdle which

comes over all. We may accept such design in novelty velveteen, with collar, girdle and vest pipings of silk, the frill being of tulle. I am

a strong supporter of the vest, which I think will be exploited, the designs to hand being of consummate vsniart-

ness. Velvet, queen of materials at axiytime, will be queen regnant this time. Hence, in association, the velvet hat. According To my, catalogues, and from what I have seen, the small velvet hat will be a leading favourite, j -shapes being rounded, pouched, and ! otherwise evolved, the brim in many cases turning up fairly flat. Tho hat here "is variously completed—brim of straw, crown of velvet with bow-ends of modified character, and side trimming of such kind as may harmonise. The little model is French, and picked more or less haphazard, from a group. Returning to waistcoats a few useful hints are given by a London writer. She pays: "I have manufactured my own, finding the work easy enough. They are very up-to-date, and, incidentally, allow you to bring forth last year's coat. I have made one. of dark blue brocade with a bluri\';d pattern in dull silver. It k a single breast and fastens invisibly down the centre. Three oxidised silver buttons adorn the front either side, but small ball-shaped ones made of brocade would have looked as well. At tho nock I have arranged a small dull silver bow, wliilo there is a fold of silver grey chiffon" to' neck. In addition 1 have made tiny spade shaped cuffs of brocade mounted on ribbon bands, as of course my object is to freshen up something from last l - year. But I have made two others in addition, one being of dark blue velveteen, which looks especially smart, and the otTier of dull white satin, with white satin ball buttons and black velvet bow." Our friend next tells us how to do the work easily, or rather how to get over a. certain difficulty. A gond.nlan if you don't want tlio bothor of putting a back to your waistcoat, is to line the collar and fronts only, and to keep the garment in place by means of an elastic, which is fastened at | either side, .at waist lino, and fastens at the back. This can bo slipped on in a moment, over any blouse one happens to be wearing indoors."