IN FASHION'S REALM.

Wairarapa Age, Volume XXV, Issue 10713, 7 November 1913, Page 2

IN FASHION'S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE NOTES ON WHAT TO WEAR. 1 am going to mix spring with summer a bit. " Where is the dividing line, anyhow? One only needs to go over spring and summer catalogues from abroad to see that we have anticipated quite a number of things. An early summer dress article, Paris, translates more or less well, as follows: "Never have-lace, silk, tulle and net been so fashionable. In fact the woman of to-day glories in delicate dress materials. Soft silky voiles, and even tulle dresses are seen everywhere. Drapings are the order of the diay, though here and there the tai-lor-made asserts itself, being the more conspicuous by the contrast. Transparent dresses are not for the | select. What is more, they are not woru by them. The slit skirt is more seeming thqn real, the idea that it is good taste to unduly exhibit the stocking resulting from ignorance of what is actually countenanced. Filmy effects are still opaque, the slimnes-s of the Greek figure being attained by the art of the cutter. Very much colour is seen. The war in the Balkans has influenced' .much. The sashes are magnificent, but swathed with consummate skill. All girdle bows are upright, with the ends drawn through for a pleasing finish. The veil reaches tho acme. It is large and long, and if .properly dis- : posed, adds much chaim to tho dress. These veils are really scarves, and on many dresses give a disguise which is there one moment a and gons the next. The' fery modish veil assists both liat .and dress. Respecting figure contour the inclination is towards a hip effect. It is the natural outcome of the panier style introduced some tiiqe ago. Waist is always high, ana then the curve therefrom is in a graceful sweep which returns from the, knee; to foot. «*• The figure is essentiallv Greek, and in some designs the resemblance, is marked. Nearly all collars are low, -round, square.or pointed. The Medici frill • lias been fairly exploited.- It is. certain to remain a cardinal feature. In fact, when autumn comes 1 it will merge into a semi-ruff, though not of severe type. Goats -are short, much cut awav," and the postilion is often favoured. Some of these dainty coats are y©ry decorative, in winch the skirt is often plain. Many savoui' more of lace than anything els'e. The modes were never more artistic. Probably they never wei'e so uniformly true to what authorities esteem the ideal. An emphatic note is the ensemble. It is no longer possible for anyone to wear this hat with that dress, or vice versa, irrespective of match. Notwithstanding the fact that the range of selection was never so wide, the woman who aspires to .be considered well-dressed .must stand | criticism from the ospray in her hat I to the point of her shoe." j Many transparent hats are trimmed with tulle ruches, pleats and soft satin ribbons intermixed with ostrich plume®, paradise aigrettes, and flowers of all descriptions. To repeat, I am going to mix spring with summer a bit. , Hats of tagal are decorated, iyiili Jbunches' of black'.;'."aig- . rettas f sintill. hats are covered with flowers; many are trimmed with plumes and tulle. Time is on the side of the very fragila hat. For the seaside the orin is covered with muslin or white moire ribbon, .and; the plaiteau shape of linen is distinguished by much embroidery. Far tho aute the bonnet has a lac© covering witli the hood well trimmed v- itli beads. A leghorn hat trimmed with .soft ribbon and sprays of roses caught rnv attention. Likewise a iine I satin straw which was swathed with velvet and dainty blossoms. Also a black tulle model with black aigrette and two Large cream roses resting at side. Violets, I .may say, were a very fashionable flower both sides: of the English Channel when last the nail left. The hat must be part, and parcel of the costume —a seleeii'm that will unite and not be in conflict. Picture a dress of sky-blue broche silk with a blue tagal hat with bows of ruby velvet. Also a dress evidencing a good deal of colour with toque of straw to complexion reduced witli white trimmings. The "airy-fairy" hat is the one that will hall mark the wearer. All the same too nuch ol a good thing makes it more- or less common. For 'such reason I advise the compromise. , The extreme hat, like the extreme dress, palls after f.eing worn a few times. Also being so noticea'ble its frequent \ise may excite tho spiteful remark "There's that hat again." Take note of the following I(j-i up-to-date millinery. A lowicr

shape, rather larger than usual, will have turned down brim front and aides,'and upstanding back, this part being extended. The hat will be enwreathed with vine flowers and leaves and a spray of same will go round chin, bow on one side and further hanging end on to shoulder. A hat with plateau crown in blue will have gollden brown encircle of satin ribbon, and graduated rounded brim of same, an aigrette from cluster of ribbon at .side consisting of four "stalks" with tufted ends. This style of aigrette is a strong coming not©. A bell like crrtwn will have a brim in some style but tulip turned one side, with immense feather aigrette in front as wide almost as the shape. A hat of lace will be semi-transpar-ent, orown a dome, and the brim rising at sides till 'back is -seen from front, roses resting in that position. The much-raised back will be quit© a feature.