SHAPING YOUNG FRUIT TREES

Star (Christchurch), Volume LXIV, Issue 833, 5 August 1933, Page 23 (Supplement)

SHAPING YOUNG FRUIT TREES

It is in the early years of the life of a tree that careful pruning is necessary. To obtain a well-proportioned tree, strong enough to bear a heavy crop and with branches well spaced out, the first essential is to have four or five main branches which should be shortened to about six buds in the first year. Cut just above an outward pointing bud, and endeavour to keep the tips of the branches as level with each other as possible. These leaders, of about an equal distance apart, should not be allowed to fork too early in subsequent years, or there will be undesirable overcrowding of branches. After a year or so the length to which leading shoots should be cut depends upon the strength of growth the tree has made, which varies considerably with different varieties. Thus strong growing apples may be allowed a little more space each year. Weaker trees give better results ultimately if one continues to cut back to six or eight buds for five or six years or even longer. Bush apples or pears after the first year may be allowed two feet of growth for two years, then left to grow to the desired height. Discretion must be used, and a weak-growing tree should receive more severe treatment. Standard or bush plum trees do not nc-ed such hard pruning as pear 3 and apples. After the first year they may be pruned similarly to bush apples. Severe pruning will cause rank growth and no fruit. A word of caution is necessary in regard to cherries. They require little pruning, or characteristic gumming will ensue which will eventually kill the tree. A slight thinning of branches so that none crosses or rubs anptlier is the only treatment required. Trees planted in autumn are better not pruned till the end of the next winter. When pruning young trees it should be borne in mind that hard cutting means stronger wood growth. RENEWING VINE SPURS. Not infrequently the spurs on vine rods become very long and ugly. Especially is this so if in pruning more than one hud is left. If any attempt of this kind is made, only one or two spurs should be treated yearly

as the “spui'*’ will not carry fruit for two years. Cutting back to within three inches of the main rod will cause a dormant bud to grow. The shoot from this bud must be encouraged to grow, and in after years must be treated as recommended for other lateral shoots.