CANTERBURY BELLS.

Star (Christchurch), Volume XLIV, Issue 661, 14 January 1933, Page 23 (Supplement)

CANTERBURY BELLS.

There are not many subjects more beautiful than a well-grown clump of these old-fashioned flowers. Most flowers are more effective when massed together than when grown .as single specimens, but there is some justification for regarding the Canterbury bell as an exception, a large plant standing by itself showing off to most effect the graceful sprays of bell-shaped though a whole bed of them makes a wonderful display of colour. How ever they are grown, it is necessary to keep a reserve stock of plants in order to replenish the beds as soon as the first crop of blossom is over. As they are not in bloom until the first week in December, sometimes even later, this presents rather a difficulty. Should they be in flower in a bed on the lawn, they can always be succeeded by asters or some other autumn flower which will be in full bloom in a short time, so but little break need be made in the summer display. A bed of antirrhinums follows on very well too, though it means that even if good plants have been grown, these will not flower before the beginning of March. Canterbury bells are usually sown late. Seeds should be sown about the New Year, in the open if slugs are not troublesome, or in pans in a frame. They should be pricked out in a nursery bed, preferably in an open sunny position, though they will do pretty well in shade. Where there are places available, it is a good plan to dibble in the seedling plants where they are to flower. A still better way in dry gardens is to sow seeds in the spring, so that the plants will not flower that season, but will make very large specimens for flowering in the second year, when the maximum effect is produced. Such plants are best put in their flowering positions in the early spring following their raising, and this is a capital way of getting them well established under trees and similar places, where the occupation of summer space is not of much importance so long as the ground is covered with greenery. Canterbury bells will do well in almost any soil and position, but in full sunshine on a hot midsummer they last but a few days at their best, while in a damp soil, especially if it is at all rich, many plants may die off in the spring, even sometimes when they are just ready to open their flowers.

GROWING HYACINTHS IK WATER,

The old-fashioned method of growing hyacinths in glasses is not much practised nowadays, and yet if good bulbs are obtained it is a clean method for flowering indoors. The illustration at A shows a bulb in a hyacinth glass; the water should reach just to the base of the bulb. In the bottom of the glass put some pieces of charcoal, and also some clean wa«hed pebbles. The charcoal helps to keep the water sweet by absorbing deleterious gases; when first put in it will float, but will sink to the bottom after a time. The pebbles help to keep the glass rigid,' and later on, when the roots get down amongst them, hold the bulb firm. The glass, after the

bulbs are put in, should be placed in a dark cupboard until the roots have grown, and also the top should be in a condition similar to that shown at B. When grown thus far they should be brought out gradually to the light. The water should be added to every few days to make up for loss by evaporation, etc. Although proper hyacinth glasses are shown, any glass or china vessel can be used. Flat bowls with three or four inches of clean pebbles in, and the bulbs stood on these with water just to the base, will also do, and in this case several bulbs can be put in one bowl. Some of the polyanthus narcissi do all right by this method.

STAKING PLANTS. It is the unusual season that we provide for at all times. Hence in both flower and vegetable gardens we provide supports to meet possible strains of wind and storm. An untimely storm oft times makes us regret that we did not take the precaution to properly support our garden friends, but regrets do not repair the damage. It pays to stake plants, it inculcates thrift and other good garden habits, and no really good gardener ‘Hakes a chance”; he stakes the plants with exactly the same purpose in view that you pay insurance on your household effects. You do not expect fire, and you do not want one, hut if it does happen you are protected against loss. Peppers and egg plants, although quite sturdy, will sometimes get damaged from only moderate winds, end a single sick with a couple of tyings will prevent them blowing over. This method can be applied to sweet corn that sometimes gets weak and lanky, or to straighten up any somewhat damaged. Tomatoes can be supported by a few sticks or a trellis made of stakes and held in position with twine; in fact, it makes little difference what you use. It is simply the necessity of having something substantial enough to protect the plants against storm and sufficiently strong to keep the fruit off the ground. The result is earlier and betterconditioned fruit, because of the admission of air and light. Beans are sometimes supported by placing a few stakes either side of the row and running some string along. Ordinarily this is not necessary, but it is a good practice in wet soils to prevent rust, especially with wax-podded types. On wet soils it is desirable to keep the vines of cucumbers, squash and pumpkins lifted from the ground, and this is done by laying some ordinary pea brush around the hills and allowing the vines to scramble over it.

GATHERING THE EARLY CROPS It pays to give strict attention to maturing crops, seeing that they are harvested in prime condition. Make a practice of gathering all the vegetables that are in perfect condition, canning those that arc not required for immediate use. Many gardens fail to pay a dividend because of the neglect to gather their vegetables at the proper time. One of the greatest assets of a garden is the satisfaction of having the best that can be had. No amount of wealth can put the flavour into vegetables. The quality of the vegetables that grace the tables of the richest man in the land is no better than yours, only he employs someone who knows enough to gather the vegetables when they are young and* succulent. The same thing is obviously possible to the smallest garden owner. Pick your vegetables when small, and those you cannot use either store for next winter or give away. Stop cutting asparagus just as soon as the peas are in bearing. The plants must have an opportunity for building up the crowns for next season’s growth. The proper way to gather beets, carrots, turnips, onions and other root crops is to feel around the crown with the forefinger and pull those that have attained size. Some are bound to develop before others, and by using those that mature first you are assured of the longest supply of tender vegetables.

CHRYSANTHEMUM ROTTING. Where the chrysanthemum is grown in pots the work of potting on Is now in full swing. Where a large number of plants have to be got through, preparation should be made well ahead. The loam and manure are generally stacked* during the summer months in a huge square mound. The loam is placed grass side downwards for a layer or two, then comes a layer of horse manure, and this goes on till the requisite amount is stored. Before use it is chopped down with spades and the fertilisers added. It is then turned over two or three times and allowed to remain till wanted. There has been a decided tendency during recent years to grow in smaller pots. At one time it was usual to grow all varieties in 8-inch pots, but lately there have been enormous quantities grown in 7-inch pots.