CROP MUST SUCCEED CROP.

Star (Christchurch), Volume XLIV, Issue 661, 14 January 1933, Page 23 (Supplement)

CROP MUST SUCCEED CROP.

Some people with gardens fail altogether to realise the many opportunities that gardening presents. They ar-? cummer gardeners. In the winter they seldom think about crops, and the untrodden paths in the garden speak for themselves. They usually wake up when they hear other folk talking gardening in the tram or train; they commence to dig when many seeds should be already sown, and the garden consequently yields but one crop in the year. The potatoes are lifted and the haulms are left on the ground, where they are allowed to decay and produce any kind of disease for the infection of the plants in the following year. Whereas, if they are planted at the proper time, the earliest potatoes may be followed by another crop of potatoes in the same season. Most early potatoes are lifted while they are still immature, and if the ground was in good heart at the time of planting, it will still contain sufficient plant food for another crop. There is no need for the second crop to mature, for the tubers can be selected for immediate consumption at digging time and they will then eat as “new” potatoes. When broad beans and early peas are past, the ground they occupy should be recropped directly the old plants can be removed. Borecole and broccoli may be planted for main crops, and cabbages and cauliflowers raised from seed sown in September should also be in good condition for planting in permanent situations during the present month. Turnips of such varieties a*3 White Stone or Yellow Malta may be sown on ground released from potatoes; more lettuce may be sown, and prickly spinach, this last to stand through the winter. Fresh batches of celery should be planted and peas provided with sticks as they become necessary, drawing a little soil to the rows at the same time. SPRING FLOWERING BULBS. The lifting and planting of narcissi and other spring flowering bulbs form the most important part of the work in the garden at the present time. Experienced bulb growers are agreed on one point—the necessity of early planting. It has been proved that narcissi like plenty of moisture when they are growing vigorously, but that they like the moisture to pass through and not be stagnant in the soil. To secure these conditions it is necessary to dig thoroughly, not only the top soil, but also the sub-soil. It should also be remembered that narcissi like some gritty material, such as sharp sand or roadj grit, in the soil, and they like wood’ ashes. These substances should be mixed with the soil. Although narcissi like deeply-dug or trenched soil to live in, they at the same time resent loose ■oil. Hence the necessity for the early preparation of the soil. Ground that has been recently dug or trenched should, while the soil is dry, be trampled upon to produce the necessary firmness. As a general rule the depth of the soil 1 above the neck of the bulb should be one and a half times the depth of the bulb itself. The bulbs should be placed

on a firm base. The soil Should be pressed firmly round the bulbs and the surface soil should be kept loose. Bonedust or basic slag is perhaps the safest manure to use for narcissi. It may either be mixed with the soil at planting time or used as a topdreeeing to be lightly forked in directly after planting. Expensive varieties are best planted in beds by themselves, and as the bedsi look very untidy when the foliage isi dying down, it is best to relegate them to a part of the garden where they will not be too noticeable. For making a show in the garden, bold clumps of commoner kinds may be planted in the mixed borders, where their untidiness at the ripening stage may be concealed by other plants growing about them. TYING PLANTS. Tying plants to supports is done xor■everal reasons. First of all, there is l the giving of light and air; the crop is> also better ripened; it is clean, too, and' so tying makes for economy in several 1 ways. Raffia is the best material for tying purposes, as it is cheaper than string and does not cut the plants; when clean-up comes, raffiq, is easily broken apart. It can be purchased at any seed store. “A stitch in time saves nine,” is very true of supporting plants. A timely tie at this season will save many an arduous hour later on. When the pole beans start to run they should be loosely tied to the support, two tyings about ten days apart will bring them into contact with the pole, and they will thereafter take care of themselves. Tomatoes require supporting the whole growing season if it be done at all, and if you are not going to be persistent, it will be better to let the vines sprawl about on the gTound—that is better than only half supported, but it is a wasteful and untidy method. Only one shoot should be allowed to grow, all laterals being removed. Keep early celery tied up during its season of growth, the chief objection to hilling during the hot weather is the liability to cause rust, so just gather in the tops with one hand and tie loosely with a piece of raffia, but never do this when the plants are wet, either from rain or dew. This also applies to endive and cos lettuce, which are sometimes tied to blanch them. ANTIRRHINUM. The antirrhinum prefers a poor and somewhat stony soil with plenty of lime in it. The craze for large flowers has caused it to be grown in rich, heavily - manured soils, with the result that the over feeding has produced a gross plant and robbed the antirrhinum of much of its character. Not only that, but it has made it more liable to disease. The plants from the time they are seedlings should be grown hardy and without undue forcing by heavy doses of manure. Lime is necessary and should be added to all soil mixtures for antirrhinums.