TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Star (Christchurch), Volume XLIV, Issue 579, 8 October 1932, Page 23 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

H.C. (Lyttelton) writes: I have enclosed three leaves of a verbena plant which l purchased in a fine, healthy condition three weeks ago. The ground has been manured in the autumn and has a coaling of lime through the winter. Will that be the cause? There am a few new shoots forming, so I think perhaps it could be saved.—l do not think the condition of the soil is responsible. The damage may be caus'ed by a rust disease or by frost, and it' you pick off the damaged leaves and spray with Bordeaux at the rate of loz to 16 gallons of water, which works out at 4oz per kerosene tin full, or dust the foliage with flowers of sulphur, this will preserve the new growths. W.P. (Aylesbury) sends a specimen flower for identification, arid would also like to know the best way to get rid of wireworms.—The flower sent in is Helleborus Caueasica, the gi-teen Lenten rose, more distinct than beautiful, perhaps. To get rid of wireworms, give the ground pl'enty of cultivation, digging, hoeing, etc. If vacant ground, spread horticultural naphthalene at the rate of 2cwt to the acre or 4 to 6oz to the square yard, and lightly dig it in. This is a very effective soil fumigant. M.M. (Avonside) writes: Can you tell me what is tire matter with my sweet peas? They are autumn sown, and about three feet high. Manure was put down about a foot in the trench. Some time ago one plant began to look sere "and yellow, now several ol' them look pinched and misterable.— It is due to disease, and I should advise you to pull up and burn any plants showing signs of it. Spray the others with lime sulphur solution. I—l2o. This may save them if not too severely attacked, or at least will check the disease. FLORA (Rangiora) writes: Have the rose leaves sent any sign of black spot? If so, would they need to be sprayed? It is a new plant purchased this season. I am spraying all my roses with lime sulphur, I—l2o. —The leavtes sent have no signs of black spot. The spraying with lime sulphur is correct, and will keep disease down. Follow the spraying by dusting with dry flowers of sulphur about every ten days or so. This you will find will keep away various pests and diseases. F.A. (Hornby) writes: I have just turned in a piece of light soil on which I had a good growth of blue lupin which had been dressed with blood and bonte. What vegetables would do best? 1 have finished planting potatoes, or would plant some. Would failure °on P ?hfs* pi ot \ast year. Wou 1 <i peas or beans do better?—Peas or beans would be the best crop. Cabbage or celery would also do. Root crops, such as carrots, except shorthorn types, or parsnips would not be advisable as th*e partially-decayed lupins would be inclined to cause the roots to fork. Cropped with peas or beans this season, it should be a good plot for carrots, parsnips or onions next season. KEEN (Belfast) writes: Could you name some plants which would suit one round and two oblong beds on the lawn, and a five-foot border near hedge?—The two oblong beds would look wtell filled with Phlox Drummond!. The round bed zinnias, petunias or asters. The borders could have a row of Salvia spleiidens at the back, in front of this lobelia. The salvia should be about two feet from the hedge, the marigolds about a foot from these, and the lobelia nine inches from edge of grass. Verb'enas could bte used in place of the French marigolds. Phlox Drummondii should he planted about nine inches to a foot apart, zinnias eighteen inches, asters fifteen inches, petunias fifteen inches. Salvia splendens eighteen inches, dwarf French marigolds fifteen inches, lobelia six inches, apart in the rows. SPROUTS (Marshland) asks: Should I pinch out the seed heads on brussels sprouts? The plants are only about a foot high, and the sprouts are just forming, but appear to be going to flower.—Your brusstels sprouts were too-late planted, or there is some other cause of them being so dwarf. They should have been at least two or three feet high, and have given you sprouts for use all through* the winter. You can do no good with tlvem now except pull them up and feed to fowls. Brussels sprouts should be sown in September, planted by December, and come into use by March or April. F.J.B. (Papanui) writes: Would you please favour me by explaining the causfe of rhubarb going to seed. The roots are young, last year’s, and the variety Topps Winter?—The reason is the plants are raised from seed, and the habit or tendency is to produce seed. Non-flowering types of rhubarb propagated by division, as was the old-fashioned but slow method, gave much better results. You cannot in any way alter it, but keeping the flower heads cut out as soon as they appear will assist in producing better AMATEUR (Hornby) asks: (1) When Is the correct time to plant an Olearia forsterii hedge? (2) Is this a native plant?, (3) Does it take the borer? (4) Distance between plants to procure a thicq hedge? (5) Dotes it remain bushy or die back when old? (6) To what height does this hedge grow?— (1) August and September. Water must be supplied if dry weather comes. (2) Yes. 3) Sometimes. (4) Twelve

inches. (5) If properly trimmed it remains bushy. It may sometimes die back, but not often. (6) About four to five feet is average hteight for a good hedge. J.J.C. (Kaikoura) writes:—l have used prunings from fruit trees for marking rows. Some of them have taken root and have formed roots. Will they be of any use as trees, and will any fruit that forms be true to name? (2) Can you give correct name of shrub known as “Lily of Valley tree?” (3) 1 want to plant some wattles, Baileyara and Floribunda. Will cattle eat them?—(l) The rooted cuttings will be true in character to the trees whence they were taken. J cannot say what their, value as trees will be, but they are certainly Worth growing. (2) Clethra alnifolia. (3) Cattle will eat these; in fact, they seem very fond of most varieties of R.G.M. (Ashburton) writes:—What is the name of enclosed specimen, and is it of any use?—lt is a seed pod of Physianthus albens, commonly known as “ Codlin moth ” plant. Moths and small flies enter the flower and cannot escape, hence its common name. It is of no use except as a climber, and I cannot say if it is poisonous, but it belongs to a section of plants that have an acrid juice. NOVICE (Addington) writes:—T have taken a house with a glassed-in verandah. There are a number of pot plants, principally various begonias. They are dropping leaves and flowers. What can be done to keep them in order?—The reason of the leaves and flowers falling is the cold dull weather. Do not keep the soil too wet, sufficient water to keep it moist and prevent the plants shrivelling is all that is required. Later on when the weather gets warmer more water and occasional doses of liquid manure will be necessary.