FORTHCOMING FASHIONS

Star (Christchurch), Volume XLIV, Issue 563, 17 September 1932, Page 20 (Supplement)

FORTHCOMING FASHIONS

The Unconventionality of Paris. EXIT “ PERIOD ’’ STYLES. (By A PARIS EXPERT.) With characteristic French verve and abandon, and with one magnificent Gallic gesture, Paris has swept away all the old shibboleths which formerly divided the sheep and the goats in fashion. The new creed in fashion i 6 beauty, and this beauty, Paris believes, is to be attained through simplicity, and through beauty of workmanship. Thus, although Paris, favours elaboration of detail, in many of her creations there is always, in the main, a simplicity of line which displays the figure to the best possible advantage; always the wearer is more important than the gown, and the two together, create a perfect whole. Another thing that is important is the refusal of Paris to relegate any one fabric to any one realm of dress. If one has a beautiful piece of tweed —and the new tweeds are very beautiful—one may even wear a dress made from it, for a tramp in the country or for a tea party in town. Paris adheres to no conventions. If a thing is beautiful, it is used in whatever way best suits the wearer, and always there is a tendency towards equalising styles, a levelling process in fashion, as it were, with beauty and simplicity as the common denominators. Because tradition lias it that jewels should be worn upon “occasions” only, and with elaborate clothes, does not make this tradition a law. It is possible to wears many rows of pearls on a jersey dress if you want to. The explanation is that since pearls and jersey are both beautiful they may be worn together with perfect propriety. On the Way to the Altar. Bridal finery in Paris is at a premium in the great dressmaking houses, and it is evident that fashions for the to-be-married follow the lead of life in returning to the 6afe and sane traditions of the past. The queer and the spectacular have disappeared. No more pink and blue brides. No more bridesmaids in red, and no more in the sophisticated black that a well-known dressmaker made smart for a season. It is true that the French brides of the humbler class sometimes go to the altar in a black crepe de chine dress, with a white tulle veil and orange blossom, but even this fashion is now in abeyance, since simple littlo white satin wedding dresses can now be had at the big Paris stores, for next to nothing. Brides now are going to the altar in snowy white, the white laid down by the ages as the one colour for a bride, and the sole shade approved by tradition. It seems that art and brides have to be in line with the past, to be respected at present. Veils are about the only detail of the bride’s cos-

tume that vary from the classic this year, and there are many fashionable brides in Paris, who are going up to the altar in the lace veils their mothers and grandmothers wore, or in floating clouds of tulle. There are other brides that are wearing the tiny circular veils created by Paris this season, those that cover the head and neck, and end at the shoulders. Successful Clothes. To make successful clothes it is essential to have the collaboration of the women who are to wear them, and no woman to-day will accept exaggerated fashions. There is, therefore, no doubt that women have themselves to thank for the phase of practical clothes which is now in vogue. Their refusal to wear the “period fashions” of last season was a distinct blow to those dressmakers who had made such a feature of them. More than one designer found her collection loft on her hands, simply because women coukl not be bothered to button themselves into tight frocks which fasten down the back, or wear bustle effects, which look like rags after they arc worn once. This season there are two silhouettes. Both are slender, for we have not yet arrived at the time when dressmakers will give their authority for women to be indulgent about their food. On© seems slightly top-heavy, for the broad-shoulder effect accentuates the waistline and the slim skirt which fits over the hips and widens nearer the hem. The other is slightly looser, suggesting that the reign of the fitting line is coming to an end. The Favourite Colour of the Season. Blue is the one outstanding colour this season. Paris is very keen about blue. It is to be seen in dark shades and in pastel colours. There are other well-known dressmakers who are pinning their faith to vivid colours. Therefore, women will he able to wear pretty much wliat they like so long as it suits them. The same thing applies to the new bats. No trace of difficult “period” fashions here! Women have welcomed with relief the smart little shapes developed from the beret, and the new brim models, with their charming flower trimming, which top summer frocks.