TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Star (Christchurch), Volume XLIV, Issue 365, 5 March 1932, Page 23 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

CORRESPONDENTS will greatly oblige by observing the following rules in sending questions for publication in these columns: — li—Letters should be in not later than Thursday to be answered the following week—addressed to Garden Editor, “ Star *’ Office, Christchurch. 2. —Write on one side of the paper, and make all communications as concise as possible. 3. —Flowers, etc., sent for naming, must be sent separately, and, if possible, packed in a tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in transit and the contents damaged.

F.M.M. (Riccarton) writes: I think I have raised a brand new bean. It is very prolific and string's absent, which is a great improvement on White Czar runners. The bean is wonderfully tender, as you can see by the sample enclosed, and the leaf is miles different from the ordinary bean leaf. 1 am carefully keeping the seed this year and should get, say, half a pint off it. The leaf looks like a vine leaf, as per sample enclosed, and the beans nearly all run 8 to 9£ inches long, as per enclosed sample. Is this a new bean I have brought out, or has it been seen before?—There are many kinds of climbing beans, and I think your sample is what is known as stringless green pod. It probably came to you as a stranger in the Czar seed, and is certainly very tender and stringless. The Czar has become popular because of its great size, but many older types are otherwise superior. I should advise you to give what seed you save a good try out next season. The white seeds are usable in winter, just like lentils. Should be glad to report further if you will send in a pod or two when ripe. AMATEUR (Shirley) writes: I read with great interest your notes weekly in the “ Star ” and receive great benefit from them. I would be thankful for the following answers: (1) I wish to grow Christmas lilies for the market. How should I proceed for long stems and large blooms, and any other points for market purposes? (2) What are the best months for sowing autumn onions? Last year I planted seed about the middle of March, and a great many ran up to seed in Spring. Would this be the cause of sowing seed too early? (3) Can phlox drummondi seed be sown now in boxes for early blooming after being transplanted in the spring? (4) Can aubretia be broken up in tiny pieces and planted out now for making fresh borders, and will the little pieces grow without roots?—(1) Plant in autumn in well manured soil, nine inches deep and twelve inches between bulbs, and do not disturb for three or four years. A shaded, sheltered position is best for all lilies. Mulch the bed after planting with three or four inches of autumn leaves or strawy manure. (2) Sow onions March 1 to March 17. Running to seed usually follows a too late sowing. In your case I would expect the soil or situation to be responsible, probably deficient in lime. (3) Yes. (4) Yes, but you should be able to divide up the plants by pulling them apart, so as to use pieces with small roots attached. Cuttings of fresh young wood should also root fairly well and make plants for bordering in the spring. CONSTANT READER (Hokitika) writes: I am sending under separate cover three aster plants. I had 40 all growing nicely, and one by one they are dying when just about to flower. The trouble is just at the top of the root. I thought maybe it was that the soil did not suit them or too much wet. Please reply through your interesting garden notes. —The trouble is a common one and usually incurable, so the best Thing is to pull up and burn all affected plants and try some other ground next year. It is the “ wilting ” disease to which, reference is made elsewhere on the page. Sterilising the soil by Jeyes powder is helpful. Seed sown out of doors does not take the disease as badly as plants reared in boxes under glass. GARDEN LOVER (Opawa): The apple is Worcester Pearmain, and the plum Monarch, both good earlv sorts. The gladioli were: (1) Joe Coleman, (2) Matarika, (3) Catherine Coleman, (4) Purple Glory. ’ CENTRAL (Sydenham) asks the proper time to transplant young bushes of

hydrangeas.—The present is a good time to transplant—the soil is moist and warm and the weather dull. Hydrangeas will transplant also in late winter, but just now conditions are ideal for the work. Of course, most plants bought from the nurseryman are in pots and can be safely put out at any time. FUNGUS (Papanui) asks: When gathering mushrooms should the stalk be pulled away or only the head taken? —The mushroom should be gathered by taking hold of the stalk and giving it a gentle twist. The stalks should not be left, ns they decay. Of course, this applies most particularly when they are cultivated in beds. STORING APPLES asks: (1) Best way to store apples. (2) Ditto potatoes. (3) Js it advisable to sow carrot and parsnip seed now?—(1) In a cool, dark, well-ventilated position. A shed with double walls, thatched roof and earth floor is one of the best fruit rooms. The main points to observe are ventilation and coolness. There are many sheds that could be made fair fruit rooms, provided the roof am* walls were covered with some insulating material, such as a layer of rushes or even tea-tree. (2) Potatoes should be stored in a dark, cool position. The method of " pitting ” or “clamping” outside is all right, provided that the pit is water--tight and pipes are inserted to give ventilation. (3) Parsnips should be sown in August. Sown now. they would only make small roots and run to seed in midsummer. Shorthorn F.A. (Opawa) asks: Cl> How to treat onion seeds. I have some just starting to break open and the seeds to fall out?—Cut the heads off. with a portion of stalk, tie them together and either hang or lay them in the sun to dry. When thoroughly dry the best of the seeds will shake out, but if not rub the pods between the hands. The chaff can easily be blown or winnowed away, leaving the good seed. ROSE (Burwood) writes: (1) Can a crimson rambler rose be transplanted in March? (2) When to -plant fruit stones? (3) How to plant them? (4) Do geraniums require little or much water? (5) "When to move a tree dahlia? (6) What can be used to cover a fernery? (7) Should bulbs be watered when growing?—Cl) Yes. (2) April to end of winter. (3) Plant in drills, covering, such as peach and plum, with three inches of soil. (4) They require little water, and if you refer to artificial watering they do best, without any; the natural rain is quite sufficient. (5) Spring or early summer. (6) Dolichos or Cobea scandens, the latter is a rapid grower and not too heavy. (7) There is usually no need to water bulbs growing in the open ground except should there be an exceptionally dry spell in spring when they are in flower. APPRECIATIVE (New Brighton) writes: (D My soil is troubled with grass grub. Gould I use naphthalene between rows of spinach, etc., and work it in? What proportions are used? (2) Is it too late to thin out growth of peach and nectarines? (3) Is it wise to sow dwarf beans now in a sheltered garden? (4) Best carrot to sow now.— (1) Use one ounce naphthalene to four or five yards run between the rows, and either fork or hoe it in. As a soil fumigant it is one of the best, and unless used extravagant.lv it appears to be harmless. (2) Tli in out the shoots now. and it will admit air to the tree, will give ripe wood, and consequently influence in favour of next season’s crop, and will save a lot «.f winter pruning. Tn fact., if well done, winter pruning can be forgotten, with benefit to the tree. (3) No. too late. (4) Shorthorn or Early Nantes.