PRACTICAL GARDENING

Star (Christchurch), Issue 19268, 3 January 1931, Page 21 (Supplement)

PRACTICAL GARDENING

NOTES FOR THE AMATEUR. Helping the Growing Grapes. To get really fine bunches of grapes, you must limit the number of bunches to a reasonable number per vine, and you must thin the berries in the bunches. Some folk, we know, don’t trouble about theseitems —but, then, they don’t get good bunches regularly every year, that’s quite certain. The rule about the number of bunches per vine is “ one bunch only to each lateral shoot.” Most laterals (new side growths) produce two, sometimes three, bunches. This is too many, and one only ought to be left; and this, naturally, the biggest and best-shaped. Cut off the others as soon as you have made up your mind just which will be the best to leave. Thinning the Berries. For the thinning of the berries _in the bunches, use proper grape-thinning scissors, with long, pointed blades. Also, you’ll need a short forked stick to hold in the left hand and steady the bunch when clipping out the unwanted berries, for you must never touch the berries with the hand, or knock them with the sleeve or head. The slightest knock means a permanent blemish. First thing when thinning, snip out the small, undeveloped berries; you’ll find quite a lot of these in most bunches. Then take out those berries in the crowded centre which obviously haven’t room to swell to full size without being crushed, and others from the outside, aiming to leave them evenly spaced and about half an inch apart over the bunch. If the shoulders of the bunch—two top side branches of the bunch—* weight down and cramp the berries below —and this, mark you, happens only with very big berried sorts —then loop them to the trellis with raffia, lifting them just a bit so as to 'relieve the cramped berries. With ordinary grapes like the old Black Hamburgh, this “ shoulder-lift-ing ” is never necessary. After thinning, give the border a sprinkling of one or other of the special vine manures and then put on a good mulch of cow manure and well water it in. A Lily Warning. Have you noticed any little roots pushing out from the stems of your lilies—the Tiger lilies, the Golden Rayed lily of Japan (Lilium auratum), Lilium speciosum, and so on? That comes of not planting the bulbs deeply enough. All lilies do not produce these roots above the bulbs, but those named always do. And if these particular bulbs are planted with at least six inches of soil above their tops, the stem roots, as they are called, help the plants to get a living. Unprovided with soil, because of shallow planting, the stem-roots soon wither, and the lilies are robbed of what should be so much extra aid. If you find those stem-roots on your lilies, cover them with rich soil at once, mounding it up to the stem well above the exposed roots and pressing the soil firmly. Some old manure should be added to the soil first, but if that is not easily come by, use any chemical fertiliser. But don’t actually mix the fertiliser with the mounded-up soil. Scatter it, instead, over the soil after you have placed it up to and around the lily stem. Then it will not harm the young roots by coming in direct contact with them. Water it at once. Young lilies in miniature you are sure to find at the base of the bigger plants. Don’t remove these under the impression that they are “ suckers ” which the lily will be better without. They are helping the underground bulbs to swell up and must be left to ripen off the ordinary way. A Correction. Lilium regale was alluded to last week in these notes as flowering in March. This is not correct; it is just breaking into bloom now. L. phillipinense, however, is the March-flowering lilium, which will need to be watched for attacks of green fly at this season. Tomato Leaf Spot. Readers who have a few tomatoes in a small greenhouse or convervatory will need to keep the house well ventilated or leaf spot ( Cladiospermum fulvum) will quickly take possession. A moist, sultry atmosphere is conducive to the spread of this disease, which is caused by a fungus that is carried in the atmosphere from fruitful winter spores lying in the ground. These spores settle on the leaf and enter it through the stomata, that is the opening on the underside of the leaf through which the leaf gives off its surplus moisture. Once in the stomata the fungus grows through the cell structure of the leaf in a more or less circular spot causing a yellowing of the upper surface. In the course of a few days, the fungus sends out on the underside of the leaf a mass of fine brown filaments. Upon the end of each is a small sac containing eight small spores, each of which is capable of carrying on the complaint. When fully ripe the sac bursts at the top and the spores are ejected into the air, where they float about seeking a fresh spot to propagate and carry on the damage. Once the spot starts it can only be held in check, bur by early control it can be hindered from getting a footing. It spreads so easily and is so rapid in, its devastating work that often the two top trusses do not set properly through lack of nourishment from the leaves that are not functioning correctly. All fungus are held in check by sulphur, and the best form to apply it for this complaint is potassium sulphide or liver of sulphur, at the rate of *oz to one gallon of water, spraying it on thorouhgly from top to bottom of the plant. This work should be done regularly every three weeks during the growing season, but even this will not keep it in check if the house is kept too closed up and of too humid an atmosphere. Ventilate freely on every suitable occasion, especially in the morning, when the stale night air is in the house. The effect, too, of free air circulation is to assist the setting of the fruit by giving a medium for the pollen to operate in. Sweet Peas. The flowers of sweet peas growing for garden decoration should be cut regularly to prevent the formation of seed pods, which, if allowed, soon stops flowering. For feeding the plants, liquid manure, made from sheep manure, is equal to anything. Do not give it too strong, however, especially at first. Soot w*ater is another excellent liquid for sweet peas. Green fly sometimes troubles plants at this time; it should be dealt with as soon as noticed by spraying. Onions. Specimens that are being grown for exhibition should be encouraged to make as much growth as possible from midsummer to the end of February—that is, growth of stem and leaves. The bulbs in the case of onions will begin to form freely towards the middle of January, and, according to variety, locality and soil, will mature ready for harvesting from the end of February

to the beginning of March. Even where fairly dry soils obtain, and in the absence of rain, artificial watering should be avoided as much as possible. Twice each week the surface soil should be hoed to create a dust mulch, and early in March a surface dressing of four ounces of bonemeal per square yard, covered with two inches of rotted manure, will prove very beneficial. At a distance of two feet apart in the centre between two rows make small holes sixteen inches deep and fill them with diluted liquid manure twice a week. The general treatment should be such as to induce the roots to go deeply during dry weather and not to bring them to the surface. Such stimulants as sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda should not be applied by the inexperienced, as the slightest overdose would cripple the tender fleshy roots. A Treat for Perennials. Better than the promiscuous use of liquid manure or chemical fertilisers among the flowers is a rich compost specially made up for top-dressing plants like pyrethrums, delphiniums, and others now hurrying into flower. Hop manure and soil, half and half, or the same proportions of rotted stable manure and soil, or a teaspoonful of any one of the general fertilisers, mixed with a double handful of soil, will make the necessary rich dressing for each plant. Place the compost in a circle around the plant to be fed, press it down with the hands, then soak it with rain-water, using a rose on the water-can. The goodness will not all be exhausted when the first flowering is over. Without this early feeding (given before the first flowers actually open), a second flowering in the same year sometimes weakens the plants to such an extent that they fail to pull through the winter as they should do. Answers to Correspondents. “Raspberry” asks: “Could you please tell me what is wrong with the accompanying sample of raspberry canes? ” —Your canes are covered with a scale insect, the specific name of which I am not acquainted with. The remedy will be to remove and burn all dead canes along with the remains of the scales which are also dead. As soon as any fruit that is ripened on canes that are alive has been gathered cut these canes out also, and burn them. In winter, when the new canes which are now growing have shed their leaves, give them a good spraying with Red Oil at the strength of 1 part to 10 parts by measure of soapy water. The condition of sample suggests that you are not removing the canes regularly each year after they have fruited. R.M.D., Waipara, writes covering samples of Delphinium and Cineraria leaves.—Your delphinium are attacked with leaf rust, which can be checked by spraying with potassium sulphide, Joz per gallon. An alternative but not so successful remedy is dusting flowers of sulphur when leaves are damp. Lime sulphur spray at one part by measure to 130 parts by measure also is effective. The bottom leaves and any other badly affected leaves could be removed and burnt. Your cineraria have a bad attack of the leaf mining grub, and your only remedy is to remove and burn badly affected leaves as sample and in the young leaves to crush the maggot as it works through the leaf; it can easily be seen. Neglect last year accounts for the severe attack this season. Watch out for the same trouble in the chrysanthemums and gather and burn all sow thistles you ® @ ® ® ® EE! HI HE! ® HE! M HE3 HI @ HE! ® HE! EH BE I

come across, as the fly responsible for the maggot loves to lay its eggs on the thistle. Steady perseverance, however, among your cineraria will soon overcome the trouble, spraying and dusting are no good. The maggot or the chrysalis can very readily be found at the end of each tunnel or bore in the leaf. If you place a few badly infested leaves in a screw top jar, the chrysalis will hatch out and you will be then acquainted with the tiny black fly that causes the spread of the trouble. TO KEEP VIOLAS IN BLOOM. The continuous blooming of violas can only be assured by the regular removal of faded blooms. This work should be undertaken at least once a week; if it is neglected there will be a flush of bloom for a while, then practically none for the rest of the season. It is a good practice during dry weather. to water the plants occasionally through a rosed can. After the plants

have been flowering for six or eight weeks they begin to show signs of exhaustion; then cut back all growths quite close and place among the plants a prepared compost passed through a half-inch sieve consisting of loam two parts, leaf mould or short manure one part, and a little soot or sand. In a short while new growth will push up and flowering be as prolific as before. SCENTED MUSK. While horticulturists in all parts of the world have been experimenting and trying to restore scent to the musk, a Bentley, Hampshire, woman has grown a fully-scented specimen from a 2d packet of seed. Just before the war reports from different countries stated that quite suddenly all perfume had passed from the musk flower. Ever since the phenomenon has puzzled chemists and botanists. Recently Mrs C. Joy, of Marylands, Bentley, showed the musk she had grown. “ I have had it for one year now,” she stated, “ and it was grown quite casually from a 2d packet of seed. It has a strong scent, even stronger when in full flower, and shows no sign of losing it.” The musk is kept in a greenhouse, and seedlings from it are being cultivated.—The “ Daily Mail.” SINGLE OUT THOSE SEAKALE SHOOTS. Seakale, raised from plantings of pieces of old roots, frequently come up as a bunch of small shoots and it is not a wise plan to let these grow on. When hoeing between the rows, therefore, take a look at each one. If necessary, scrape away the soil around each and carefully remove every shoot but one or perhaps two. These grow into strong plants which are undoubtedly best for forcing purposes later on. I !*l I*ll*ll*lHMD D @ © IU ® HE! HE! HI HE! HE! HE! HE! IS E*

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CANTERBURY BELLS. During the early summer months there is not a brighter occupant of the border than a well-grown Canterbury bell (Campanula medium), and as a stock of good, healthy plants is easilyraised from seeds, they deserve to find a much more prominent place in all gardens where a bright floral display is appreciated. Although not strictly biennials, these plants are usually grown as such (i.e., the seedlings are raised one year, flowered the next, and then thrown away, or die). Sometimes plants will survive for another year and flower very well,_ but as young ones are so easily obtained the system is scarcely worth the trouble* A good time for sowing is in December, as by so doing strong plants are secured which will stand the winter with impunity. Seeds of separate colours can be obtained or a packet of mixed will give good returns in the way of flowers. A moderately good, but not over-rich, plot should be chosen for the seed-bed, and after being well dug and made rather firm, and the surface finely raked down, drills one inch deep and one foot apart should be made. At that time of the year the soil will in all probability be very dry, and it is, therefore, essential to successful germination that the drills be well watered before the seeds are sown. After this watering scatter the seeds thinly along the rows and cover with fine soil. Should the weather remain dry, other waterings must be given as often as required until the seedlings appear. The work now will consist of frequent boeings and weedings, and when the plants are about two inches high, advantage should be taken of a wet day to get them transplanted. Many growers make the mistake of allowing them to remain in the seed-bed until required for placing in their permanent positions in autumn, with the result that they become drawn and weak. The seedlings should be put out in rows fifteen inches apart and nine inches between the plants, watering them until they are established, after which they will require no further attention, except an occasional hoeing, until planting-out time. As mentioned above, Canterbury bells may be put into their flowering quarters in autumn. For filling beds, one foot apart each way will be a good distance, and for the front of a border or similar position a clump of three, placed in the form of a triangle, usually proves the most effective, especially if the units of the clump are of the same colour.

When the flowers appear, stakes will be necessary, as the blossoms are naturally heavy. After the flowers have faded they should be picked off and the plants will continue to send up further blooms. Once finished flowering, the plants can be destroyed, for although it is not unusual for some to survive and live through another season, they are not to be compared with the first flowering, and in most cases are very irregular and patchy.

THINNING PEACHES. Most people consider that the acme of perfection in growing peaches is to get as many to hang on a tree as possible. From a commercial point of view this may be correct, but to the individual who is growing for his own use it is much better to have sufficient good fruit than to have a surplus of inferior fruit. In thinning peaches where two fruits are touching one should be removed, and a space of eight or nine inches allowed between the fruit. The best method of procedure is to go over the trees and single out the twin fruits, and then a few days later to go over the tree again, doing the final thinning. The thinning of fruit is not practised nearly so much as it should be. By judicious thinning a tree is prevented from overcropping, and will be found to keep in good health and carry more regular crops than if unthinned. WEAK AND OFTEN. The heading of this paragraph is the slogan of the man who starts feeding his crops—“ Weak liquids and often.” It is far better for the plants, and the results invariably justify the advice, no harm is done and growth, is rapid and continuous when you keep that slogan in view. If artificials are used, let the solution be weak. If farm manure is preferred, let it give a liquid like “weak tea.” Apply it twice a week, as a general rule. PERENNIAL PHLOX. These are amongst the first of herbaceous plants to suffer from a dry soil. A few hot, dry days are sufficient to cause the plants to have a decided wilt. Where the clumps are in borders the following is a good method to keep the plants going. Make three or four holes around each clump with a crowbar, pour water down the holes until the soil is thoroughly soaked, then mulch with some moisture-holding material such as lawn cuttings, old leaves or manure. RENOVATING THE LAWN. W'here lawns are being renovated ammonium sulphate is particularly valuable. Where daisies, dandelions and other deep-rooting perennial weeds are a nuisance, a pinch of this fertiliser placed in the crown of the weed is a sure means of killing it without injury to the turf, whilst by distributing the lawn sand broadcast the grass will be greatly assisted and all broadleafed weeds will be damaged more or less mortally. Hydrangeas after FLOWERING. Cuttings inserted during last autumn and grown to supply single heads of bloom will soon be losing their attractiveness. There is no need to wait until the bloom fades, but as soon as

they have passed their best, cut each one clean away. Remove the plants to a cold frame with a bed of ashes at the bottom. Encourage active growth by liberal feeding, either in the form of a top-dressing or application of liquid manure from time to time. This will produce strong, sturdy growths that will serve admirably for propagation later on, or will give specimen plants for flower production the following year.