Practical Gardening

Star (Christchurch), Issue 19240, 29 November 1930, Page 26 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

OY

D. Combridge, Dip. H.( N.Z.)

ROSE NOVELTIES IN GREAT BRITAIN, Mr E. li. Morse, writing in the “Nurseryman and Seedsman,” says: Really good new roses this year are scarcer than ever, for the percentage of bad ones, or those of little value, is greater than ever. Something like 95 per cent of the 1929 novelties, as far | as commercial value is concerned, or improvements on existing varieties, is worthless. Some may think us rather rigid in our criticism, but, nevertheless, when we are asked to give a candid opinion it would be unfair of us not to do so. On the other hand, we think it wise to let the things that are worthless find their own level, as they always do. The novelties we shall mention hereafter will only be those of sterling merit, and. from some point or other, worthy of the consideration of every grower, commercial or otherwise. The best new rose of the year we consider, having tested some 120 varieties, taking it all round on points, is the “Daily Mail” scented rose, and, although we do not consider it quite so good as Etoile de liollande in its second period of flowering it is easily the best new red rose that has been introduced since Etoile came into commerce. The next rose on the list, which we think is equal in merit, but of a different colour, is Mrs Samuel M’Gredy. Its labit and growth are ideal, it is free ‘owering, and a wonderful bit of colour, -nd we should best describe it as a super Emma Wright, with double fche substance. Chaplin’s Pink Climber is a very fine addition to the Wichuraiana class, and no doubt will have a very fine run, but Augusta Kordes is a rose that we think, when well grown, will . even supersede this variety, because it is of a little brighter colouring, more ! free flowering, and, to us, more elegant. 1 Glendale is a new climbing rose of the type of Alberie Barfc : er, but more of a primrose colour, with large trusses, that will gain the confidence and esteem of all who grow it. It is quite distinct. Rosa Ecoe is a very fine type of the species, which needs to be seen to be loved. It is absolutely distinct from anything in commerce, and for decorative purposes there is none to equal it, either in the garden or in the home. It is a great pity that Flamingo was not a little fuller, to make it what we should call really first class. Mrs G. Geary is the rose that we venture to say will supersede Lady Inchiquin, j and no doubt when the price is right ! everyone will want it. Margaret Ann Baxter is a very fine rose indeed, not a pure white, but we should say will be an excellent rose as a cutback. It has a delicious perfume. Madame Henri Queille is a rose of sterling merit, the best introduction of its colour since we had Los Angeles, and one that will be sought after for some considerable time. President Jac Smits, although a seedling from K. of K., is similar to this variety, but with a depth of colour that we get in Etoile de Holldnde, and is quite distinct. Respecting polyanthia roses, Reeve’s Little Dorrit is one which we can personallv recommend, being quite distinct from Coral Cluster, and one that will never burn in the hottest sun THE GLADIOLUS. The gladiolus is one of those flowers that has jumped into favour very quickly of late years, and nowhere has it more supporters in proportion to population than in Christchurch. Fairly easy to grow, not particularly prone to disease, results more or less sure, and occupying little space, and thus allowing a fairlv- large number to be grown in a small garden, there is no wonder it is popular. The planting of bulbs has gone on since October, which is the month when the majority of bulbs are planted, but even now bulbs can be planted. Certainly they will flower late, but that is no detriment as it ensures a longer flower season. The bulbs planted early to provide the main disj Play, usually about the beginning of J January, will this season, owing to the i weather, not be at their best till the j end of the month or beginning of February. So far the growths are lookng well, and the flower spikes, although lot yet showing, are beginning to push ap inside the sheath of foliage. Now is -he time when the judicious application of a little weak liquid manure can do wonders, but let it. be weak. Do not for a moment think that if one spoonful is good a double dose is twice as good. No more should be given than the plant can assimilate. What to give is the question. Many growers will not hear of manure, but then we have all not got first-class soil. Some are doing their best on stuff somewhere below third-class, and unless they use manure they have no possible hope of getting anywhere near the more favoured ones. Probably the best method is to scatter a spoonful or so of guano or fish manure on the soil round the bulbs, hoe it in, and allow the rain or watering to wash it in. Blood and bone could be used in place of those mentioned previously, but it would not be so complete a manure. A mixture of one part sulphate of ammonia, three parts superphosphate, and one part sulphate of potash, used at the rate of a tablespoonful to the gallon, and applied as a liquid manure could be used once a week. The dry manures should be I applied now and again in about a fortnight, that is. about a month before the blooms open This gives the essen tial part of the manure to become available by the time the plants need it. Once the buds show colour do not give any further manure, either liquid or otherwise, as it is inclined to cause the colour to “break” or become streaky. A mulching of cow manure applied now, especially where artificial watering is not possible, will reserve moisture and help to carry the bulbs over a dry period should such intervene between now and flowering time.

L. E. W., Linwood, writes: In garden notes re walnut trees not bearing, your answer is the trees are not old enough. Tnere is an old saying that you have to be unkind to trees that do not bear. Take an axe and chop into the bark; the trees want bleeding.—The advice re deeding wainut trees is very ola, and j may have some foundation for the fact. * jfrobably it gives the tree a check that orings about iruit, but actually tnere is nothing to prove that the process is appucaole to all trees; it may answer in some cases, and cutting the bark can be harmful by aumitting disease germs. Walnut trees of a good age invariably give heavy crops witnout any bleeding, xiaving attained a maximum growth, chey produce snort, knotty spurs, which always a*£rv crops of fruit. I should not like to recommend anyone to use an axe on their tree, as the result might De that they would want to use the axe on me. In any case, if 1 pass on tue information, and if anybody has a walnut tree tnat does not bear and likes to risk the axe as a rod of correction, all well and good—at least. I hope so. Reader, naisweil, sends some buds of rhouodenuron tor examination.—-Xt ii due to the roots being too dry. Either move the plant to a more favourable position or give it an occasional watering. H. J. D., Spreydon, wishes to know what is the best quick-growing breakwind for a position open to the westerly wind.—Pittosporum nigresens (Matipoj or (Jupressus Lawsomana would suit the position; the first-named would probably be best. You can purchase two-year-ola Plants, but it is too late this season, and you will have to wait until autumn before you can plant. if you wish to sow seed procure it at once. Soak it in the open ground in a bed which can be kept moist, shaded and free from weeds throughout the summer. This applies to the Pittosporum crassifolium. x think, however, you would do better to obtain plants early in autumn. Prepare the ground during the summer by uigging and manuring, so that when the plants are put in they will go straight anead. By well preparing the ground you will find that you will not be losing time before the hedge is of an effective value. Grape, Woolston, writes: I have a grape vine which has bunches of grapes on. but when they get thY size of a pin head they fall. I enclose specimen oi bunch. —Your fears are quite unfounded. The vine is in flower, and when the flowers open a small cap falls off; this, is what you aro thinking is the grapes, but it is not so. Everything is all right, and in a few days you will see the small berries begin to form like little green currants. P. Rangiora. asks: Would the grass cuttings from a lawn make a good bed for tomatoes if placed in boxes anu covered with a foot of soil?—1 do not think it would be of any value; better to dig it intp the garden, where it will decay, and eventually become plant food, or use it as a mulch during summer. Worried, Papanui, sends a leaf of tomato from a plant in a greenhouse, and wishes to know: (1) If soil is at fault? (2) Plants sprayed with Bordeaux lime-sulphur with no better results. Plants not over-watered, plenty of ventilation; first and second bunches not setting; ripening when size of cherries.— (1)1 do not think the soil is at fault. The leaf looks to me as If it has been scalded by spraying or some other liquid. Are you sure your spray mixture was all right? In any case, either Bordeaux or lime-sulphur should have acted, and I do not think you did any good by trying different sprays; in fact, you may have done harm. The fruit not setting seems to be due to the plants being too wet or too dry, although even If dry the fruit usually sets. It is difficult to give a correct diagnosis without seeing the plants, but there seems to be something wrong with the drainage or position of the greenhouse. Bignonia, Kaiapoi, asks: (1) What is the essential difference between blood and bone, bonedust, guano, basic slag. (2) Should a lilac be pruned when it. has finished flowering; is root pruning necessary? (3) Should an Argentine pea be pruned right back after flowering? (4) The grass grub is now changing into the bronze beetle. Would dressing my lawns with super or other fertiliser act as a deterrent? (5) I have a bigiionia,

probably Tweediana, which has been growing for three years. It grows well, but has not flowered. It gets a draught through the trellis. Would this have an ill-effect?—(l) Blood and bone is a meat manure containing nitrogen and phosphoric acid in a more or less soluble form, and is quick acting and dues not burn. Useful for most garden crops, out if used too freely is inclined to cause the soil to become sour; a dressing of lime occasionally will act as a corrective. Contains more nitrogen, and is quicker acting than bonedust. Bonedust contains phosphoric acid and about 4 per cent nitrogen. It is slow acting, being available as a plant food over a long period. It Is a safe manure, and is one of the best for the garden. The finer the bones are ground the more quickly are the constituents available. Can be used for almost every crop, even the most tender. Probably, next to stable manure, i 3 the best and safest manure to use. Guano is obtained from the deposits of birds, and the best is obtained from areas where no rain falls. The Peruvian deposits probably give the best guano, but there are many different kinds, all of varying composition. It usually contains nitrogen, potash and phosphoric acid, all in a quickly available form. It is good for fruit crops, sue has strawberries, etc., and also for most vegetable and flower crops. It should be used in small quantities as: a top dressing, as rain soon bleaches out the soluble matter. A little dissolved In water makes a good liquid manure. Basic slag is a by-product of the smelting process, and the value largely depends upon the fineness of the grinding. It contains phosphoric acid and free lime, is slow acting, and is best applied in autumn. On sour soils it acts as a corrective, but for most garden crops it is too slow, and superphosphate is much quicker in action. Basic slag is safe to use in almost any quantity, but should never be mixed with, or applied directly aoter, a nitrogenous manure, such as nitrate of soda, guano, fowl manure, blood and bone, etc. (2) Yes. Cut out some of the weaker growths and remove any suckers that come from the roots. Root pruning is unnecessary, as the lilac makes a mass of fibrous surface rents. (3) It should be cut back to the main stem. (4) Yes. (5) Bignonia 1 Tweediana does not flower well in a young stage, but I expect that the draughty trellis will have an effect on the plant, as it is actually a tropical plant, and needs a warm, sunny position. Perplexed writes:—(l) Last year a Blue Diamond plum tree, bearing a larjje crop, which was thinned, became denuded of foliage, and the plums turned pink and fell off when half-grown. Small brown spots appeared on the leaves and spread until the leaf became a golden brown. This year the tree flowered well, but there is no fruit, although the tree abpears healthy. The tree is sprayed in winter with lime-sulphur, and the foliage with arsenate. (2) Every year my peaches are attacked with a grub similar to codlin moth, which covers itself with a leaf, and eats into the stalk

STAKING PEAS. Peas ought to be staked before the stems of the plants begin to bend, and by getting the sticks prepared in advance, time is saved. Almost any kind of boughs will do : providing they are twiggy and not too thick. They should be cut green, laid flat in bundles, and the tops should have some logs or heavy weight placed on them. This will press them flat, and when opened out for use it will be found that most of the branches are fanwise. If, as is often the case, the branches are not

cut till required trin ;fl any twigs pointing in the wrong direction. A bundle of sticks such as these is more useful than two or three bundles of bare sticks, as B. In addition to pointing the sticks, they should be made flat by cutting off straggling pieces pointing in the wrong direction. Before staking peas, a little earth should be drawn up to the plants on each side of the row, care being taken not to insert the sticks too near the plants or damage' to the roots may occur. The stakes should not be inserted in an upright manner, as at B, but in a diagonal fashion on each side, of the row. the sticks on one side, of course, sloping in the opposite direction to those on the other, as at C. This method locks the sticks together, and keeps them steady during wind. The height of the various varieties of peas must, of course, be taken into consideration, and the longest sticks be reserved for the tallest peas. ONION JAMES' KEEPING. This popular variety originated with Mr James, a market gardener in Lambeth Marsh (a patch of onions growing there to-day would be some novelty), some years prior to 1834. It was pyramidal, brown, hardy, and a good keeper in those days, when it was considered a large onion. It has retained its character well, considering the length of time it has been in cultivation, and is to-day one of the best onions for keeping purposes. TO IMPROVE GROWING CARROTS. There is something peculiarly valuable in the use of lawn mowings as a mulch among carrots. The mowings should be laid on thickly between the carrots as soon as they are up. This treatment is certainly highly beneficial in promoting the rapid growth of the carrots. That alone ensures a good, clean growth. of the peach and causes It to fall . Sometimes they eat nearly all the skin away. Several seasons ago 1 sprayed with limesulphur and arsenate of lead for brown rot and the grub, but as the leaves fell off, also the crop, I did not continue. Is arsenate of lead harmful to the foliage of the peach, and can it be made too strong? What strength should be used? Please give measurements in spoonfuls (heaped or level) Instead of in ounces. — The trouble Is a bad attack of plum rust, and is common in most parts. One part of the life cycle of the rust is passed on the anemone, and another on species of prunus. The control methods must consist of ploughing or digging under all fallen leaves and fruits. Spray (3) when buds bogin to move. (2) When flower buds show pink, (3) when petals fall, (4) after the fruits are. picked. All stone fruits in the vicinity should be sprayed. The cause partly of the tree failing to set fruit is due to the defoliation of the tree last season lowering its vitality, and the buds not developing properly. Arsenate of lead is only good Cor biting insects, such as leech. (2) This is a common insect in many trees, and does not confine itself to the peach. A spraying with arsenate of lead when the fruit is about the size of marbles, and again when about half grown, should keep them down. A level dessertspoonful of powdered arsenate of lead to the gallon of water or spray mixture is all right for peaches or plums. Apple Tree, Avonside. writes:—l have a Delicious apple tree, about eight years old. grown tall, but no decent fruit. Last season i was advised to cut a large root close to the trunk, and I would have plenty of fruit. I did so and It proved correct. This year, when pruning. I found a large branch dead, the -ame side as the root was cut off I notice there is another branch on the same side that has no sign of life in it. is the pruning of the root the cause of it. and shall I cut it off at the stem? (2) I am growing onions for seed. Do they require pruning in any way?—(l) it is due, probably, to cutting off the root: the tree may have needed root pruning, but to cut off a large root close to the stem is to go a long way towards killing the tree. If root pruning was necessary you should have dug down so as to get below the tree, and cut any roots that were growing down into the subsoil. Cut off the dead branch and dress the wound with a coat of oaint or coal tar. In future you would be well advised not to go in for such drastic root pruning, or you may lose your trees. (2) No. When the flower heads run up, stake and tie them, gather and dry in sun when seed is matured.