FASHION NOTES

Star (Christchurch), Issue 19240, 29 November 1930, Page 20 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES

NEW IDEAS FOR YOLKS. SEMI-SANDALS POPULAR FOR EVENING WEAR. (By A PARISIAN EXPERT.) The new autumn collections are the most thrilling ones we have seen for many seasons. Many are the new and sartorial thrills. There are daytime ensembles, which have semi-fitted jackets, and simple frocks of fine jersey or flecked jersey, and contrasting three-quarter overcoats of heavier patterned jersey, or thick wool. Scantily-pleated accordion skirts are novel with these costumes, and one ensemble was particularly interesting —a fantasie wool crepe, something like our old-fashioned shalli, with the back of its short jacket pleated in the same

fl @3Hl® IS ® I*3 Hl® HU S3 ® S 3 ®HI Sl ® 11 Hi l manner. TL.se new Paris showings prove that so far as Paris is concerned, longer skirts are here to stay. Nobody is going to give women back their freedom of the knees. On the contrary, there is a noticeable tendency to lengthen daytime skirts to the middle of the calf—about lOin to Sin from the floor, for everything except sports clothes. The Big Six, Paris* most radical fashion changers among the dressmakers, have shown their autumn collections, and it is strikingly noticeable that they will not tamper with the skirt length. New Points in the Fashions. I have jotted down for my readers special fashion points which are likely to interest them: — Shoulders are widened by Raglan sleeves, rather than by puffs or decorations. Daytime hems are about Sin to loin from the ground, and separate belts place the waistline at its most becoming level. Short fur jackets flaring loosely from the shoulders—in poney red kolinsky or dyed ermine—are featured in one-piece wool or jersey frocks. ‘•Pierrot” ruffled collars, and cuffs in mousseline or embroidered batiste lend a dainty touch to many daytime frocks. Ermine is a favourite trimming. White ermine is seen unusually combined with such colour and material as garnet red jersey for a daytime coat. Stole scarves of black, grey or white ermine, with a touch of natural tails placed at the left side of the neck, are worn with 6uits and frocks. Moire, satin dr brocade makes simple afternoon frocks and ensembles, with skirts about Bin from tire ground. An unusual combination seen consisted of a black moire coat over a transparent black velvet frock, with white velvet collar and cuffs. There are to be seen also many of the lovely trailing studio gowns in brocaded mousseline, flowered chiffon, laco and net. Ankle-length evening skirts are a novelty. They are seen in flowered chiffon, tucked and flounced as casually as muslin. Many of them have fullgathered double skirts. Cobweb lace skirts in navy blue or black over slender slips of horizontally striped or flowered faille, are new and utterly charming. Square decollates predominate. Evening coats of velvet or velveteen have huge fur collars, and are semi-fitted and knee length. Waistlines are usually a little bit lower for daytime, though Paris insists that they shall appear normal. Bloused Backs. Quite a number of the new coats have bloused backs, the line in front being kept fiat. On these, radiating tucks in one-sided motifs, are sometimes favoured, and diagonal lines run through models for all limes of the day. Cleverly cut yoke movements are seen carried over the top of the shoulder, and on one coat this little yoke continues the fashionable short shoulder cape. Fur collars are cut in all kinds of interesting ways, and flat furs and fox seem to divide the honours fairly equally between them. A shawl collar on a coat is seen split on the shoulder, the upper part continuing its usual career, while the lower deckles to become a tie, and is knotted in tlie centre of the back.

The colours for this season are browns, dark reds and dark green, and for afternoon dresses lovely shades of cornflour and royal blue make some charming models. Black, however, is more than holding its own. Semi-Sandals Popular For Evening Wear. Many women still prefer court shoes for evening, although the popularity of the semi-sandal, which is entirely cut away at the back, seems undiminished for„ those who can wear them. Practically no shoe jewellery is to be seen this season, with the sole exception of a discreet buckle or button to fasten the strap of a brocade shoe. Strapped shoes in this material, in brilliant shades of red or green, are made to be worn with white or pastel coloured frocks. For the rest, court shoes in crepe de chine, slightly ornamented with a narrow applique of gilt leather in various designs, are being sponsored by some of the leading Paris shoemakers, and it is thought that women will match their footwear with their gowns this coming season, as they did, to a great extent, last 3 r ear.

Our Sketch. The illustration shows a graceful coat that tops afternoon gowns. The gown is made of pale green chiffon and is