THE GARDEN

Star (Christchurch), Issue 18466, 18 May 1928, Page 3

THE GARDEN

NOTES FOR THE AMATEUR

By

D. COMBRIDGE

ROUND THE BORDERS. The continuance of the unusually fine weather lately, whilst being very enjoyable, is not suitable for the commencement of transplanting operations in general nursery stuff. The advice generally given is to do as much transplanting of trees arid shrubs as is possible during this month while _ the ground has a fair amount of heat in it from the summer weather. This soil condition is also helpful to transplanted shrubs, in that it is more friable and conducive what little root action there may be prior to winder setting in. However, in a season like this, the sap has not ceased to flow, and a. too early ripoving of plants tends to'check the" perfect development of the buds at the base of the leaves which will mean insufficient supply of food for a vigorous start of growth in the spring. In some subjects, roses especially, and some other plants that shed their leaves each year, too early a move causes the leaves left on the plants to shrivel and wilt without properl y failing off, and they consequently have to be picked off carefully with the hand’, or else left to hang until next spring, in which case they look \erj' unsightly. The amount of rain that has fallen since April 1 has been insufficient to make the soil condition suitable yet for anything more than herbaceous plants which are certainly better put in now than if left until the spring time with its soggy soil conditions.

One or two suitable subjects were dealt with in this column last week, but there are many others that lend themselves to small gardens, and to the attention of many who have little time on their hands to give to the care of annual bedding plants. Their beauty, as well as their usefulness lies in the profusion of bloom they give, and to the fact that with ordinary treatment they last for many years:

One of the first to be remarked on is the perennial asters or Michaelmas daisies. Their value is not yet sufficiently appreciated for the hardy perennial border. The lateness of their flowering makes them very useful for brightening both the garden and the home. Planted amongst chrysanthemums which are usually placed against the fence, they fill up the fence line in an admirable fashion. There is quite a variety in the height and habit of many of the Michaelmas daisies, so much so that in larger gardens a special portion of the garden is set aside for them. It is also a plant that lends itself to growing in pots like chrysanthemums. thereby being a good addition to the cold greenhouse or conservatory display during early winter. There is quite a large range of colours and forms, so that it is a good plan to see a collection in bloom before making a choice for building up an assortment of one’s own. In the past the very small flowering varieties have been most popular owing to their graceful sprays or heads of bloom, but latterly these have been added to by such choice coloured larger flowered varieties that favour is divided between them. A good rich soil is needed to bring the greater number to perfection, but in the taller growing varieties rich fand will make them too gross. These tall.growing sorts may be benefited by cutting the plants down when they have grown twelve or fifteen inches high. The effect of this will cause them to flower later. As w r ith all herbaceous plants* .the giourid prior to planting should be well dug and have good well-rotted manure incorporated with it. The plants may need watering during the hot weather, but if it is done it should be done copiously. Readers who already have good plants that have been grown for several years should lift and divide them at this season. Plants intended for growing in pots* should be lifted and potted in the spring, but in their case a small portion only of a root, should be put into a lOin pot of good loamy composl. After potting all that is necessary is to plunge the pot into the soil and bring it into the conservatory in the autumn for flowering. The small flowered species are by far the best for this purpose.

A good subject and one that should be looked on with favour owing to its unique markings in the flowers is alstromeria. They are quite ornamental in appearance.- The variety known as aurantiaca has rich tawny orange

flowers pencilled with blaclcish-brown and it is one of the showiest of the late summer flowering plants. It is related to the amaryllis, and is commonly known in some parts as the Chilian herb-lily. The plant has bundles of tuberous roots that are exceedingly brittle and as during the winter the plant goes perfectly dormant it is often damaged in forking over the border during the autumn or early spring. For this reason the plants must be properly marked or else placed in a sunny corner where it is recognised that they remain undisturbed for several years. All that is necessary is an annual mulch of well-decayed stable manure. In summer they must have an ample supply of water, and during the hottest months should have a mulch of dry litter to keep their roots cool and shaded. Alstromeria Chiloensis is variable in colour, being in shades of cream, buff, coral pink and amber. A. aurea is of clear yellow ground colour with fine pencil markings and freckles of almost an olive tint. Asti-, bile, sometimes known as goat's beard, is really valuable as a garden plant; it is admirably suited for the borders of ponds, streams or ornamental fountains. This, of course, indicates the plant as being a moisture-loving subject, and therefore specimens put out in the open border must never be allowed to become dry, as it is fatal to the opening of the small flowers that come in plume like spikes well above the foliage.

There are both white and pink, either of which is very pretty. They make excellent subjects for potting up and using for the conservatory or house decorating effect. When grown in pots, as they approach flowering time, the best way to water them is to drop the pot and all into a pail or tub of water. They flower about Christmas and during Januar}'. Campanula is another subject that contains within its ranks a wide range of dainty flowering plants. One of these is C. medium, and it is our common Canterbury Bell.

In this herbaceous plant we have the range of plants that are of a tall and imposing habit, whilst there are others that are of the dwarf stature and are worthy of being grown in the choicest collection of alpine plants. The varieties suitable for the open border as C. persicaefoiia and C. pyramidalis, ar ecertainlv among the daintiest herbaceous subjects, especially the former variety with its handsome showy spikes of beautiful cup flowers. The number of spikes as they are thrown up give the plants of the latter variety that pyramidal effect which is so attractive. It is sometimes spoken of as the “ Chimney' campanula.” This variety is also very useful for pot culture, its final potting being into an eight-inch pot. In outside cultivation it is necessary to have suitable stakes, as the wind will quickly spoil what promises \o be a beautiful specimen. The canna is also worthy of consideration as being a plant most suited to the perennial border. Some readers may be familiar with the broad spathe-like leaves that are held horizontally to the axis of the plant. The plant has just finished flowering with most growers owing to the recent severe frost. The colours usually seen are red, yellow and a yellow heavily spotted with red. There are, however, some very fine hybrids known as Crozy's Hybrids. The seed of canna is exceptionally hard, and because of this the plant gets the name of Indian Shot. The plant is a gross feeder and requires plenty of moisture and a goijid mulching during Jiy weather. For many years the canna was grown almost entirely as a foliage plant for special effect in certain bed-ding-out work, but as new introductions have been made of so many beautiful varieties the plants are prized for their flowers as well as their foliage. It appears that M. Annee. a French* amateur, was one of the first to attempt the improvement . oi the canna, but public interest was not aroused until M. Crozy brought out his gladiolus flowered hybrids. These again were crossed with a species flaccida from South .America .vnieli produced the orchid-flowering section. There, are dwarf varieties as well as taller sorts in the English garv pus, but for local, use our nurserymen offer some very choice sorts. Dieh tra

spectabilis, popularly known as the. lyre flower or bleeding heart, likes a light, rich, rather moist, peaty soil, and thrives in the shade. Its height is only from one to‘ two feet, and with its dainty foliage, along the underside of which hang the pretty rosy purple flowers, making it a choice subject for a small garden. Further, as it loves shades, it may be put under some tall subject that will not rob it of its needed food and moisture.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. "Cox's Orange"—Your trees at fifteen vears old should be in full bearing, and their failure to bear properly during the last three seasons points to a trouble that has been growing gradually year by year. Upon the description that you give I am inclined to suspect that Red Mite is at the bottom of the trouble, but without seeing a portion of the tree with the unhealthy foliage attached it is only speculation to fix on any cause definitely. Arsenate of lead would not help the foliage unless it was being eaten by caterpillars or eating insects. It would not help the fruit unless put on at the right time to control codlin moth, which in itself will cause fruit to fall prematurely. Black Leaf 40 would control red mite if applied in time and often enough, in the case of a bad attack. For the general health of the

trees and for the cleansing of the bark I would recommend spraying them thoroughly with the caustic soda sprav as follows: lilbs copper sulphate, £lb lime, 5 pints kerosene, 21bs caustic soda, cold water to make up to 10 gallons. Method of mixing: Dissolve copper sulphate in eight or nine gallons of water, slake the lime and add it to the dissolved copper sulphate, running ft through a sieve to strain off all grit, then add the kerosene and churn. Finally add the caustic soda. The whole must have sufficient water added to make up to ten gallons. This wash cleanses the bark. removing moss lichen, etc... and it is also fungicidal. The ova of oyster shell, bark lice ; nd mussel scale are destroyed by this spray. Apply during late June, using gloves to prevent damaging the hands.