WOMEN AND THE HOME

Star (Christchurch), Issue 18340, 17 December 1927, Page 26 (Supplement)

WOMEN AND THE HOME

FROM A PARISIENNE’S NOTEBOOK. (By YVONNE RODIER.) It is ordained that a stricter dress code shall prevail this season. Morning attire must be doffed by lunch-time, now that the afternoon dress has become such an.item of. note in the smart feminine wardrobe. Charming examples console the busy mondaine for the bother of changing. Gowns in most becoming silks, satins and crepes are all so essentially feminine as to create 6 new personality once- the affairs of the morning are over. Yes, it is all very pleasant and worth while, this slipping out of walking suit austerities and revelling in tucks and laces and ribbons and other super-feminine adornments. A word must be said again about the eternal waistline! In smart frocks, waistlines are all, without one single exception in any authentic salon, practically back to normal. Skirts of gowns are quite two inches longer than for walking suits. Sleeves, also without exception, are long. Bolero and coatee effects -with the new afternoon toilettes are a feature of every dress parade. Special attention is also devoted to the dance-frock just now, and the dancer is well catered for. Trimmings are mainly at the back, since it is the back view of a dancing robe, of course, that counts most. Small bows with long ends are placed at the centre of the back decolletage when this is not cut very low, as it is, incidentally, in many models. There is a revival of those uneven decolletages that leave one shoulder bare. A like unevenness still characterises the hem-line. And let it be noted that although the genuine picture-frock is not suitable for dancing, its influence is so all-para-mount that any number of dresses show a skirt that is long at each side, but short in front and at the back. The footwear displays make it obvious that stockings are much darker. The true “ nude ” colour has quite disappeared save for evening wear. All sorts of new shades of grey dictate the present stocking mode, varied by tan and a dark sunburn hue. Really heavy silk is used for walking-shoe stockings in town. Shoes, too, are more substantially built. Light lizard is giving place to the darker brown crocodile and ostrich skins. MAYFAIR MODES. I (By DIANA DANE.) In spite of all doleful prophecies-to the contrary, blue is likely to remain a favourite all through the season. A kindly, courteous it is becoming to most women, especially to .those who are neither dark nor fair, but of “in between” colouring. And since a world-famous designer has included many blue frocks in a recent tion, there is every reason to suppose that the lesser lights will rapidly follow suit. Hyacinth, aquamarine and opaline blue are the smartest shades, with night-blue and moon-jade as delightful alternatives. A display of dresses for the jeune fille, included one or two delightful little blue models: one, in chiffon lightly sprinkled with diamante and with a tiny diamante posy worked on the shoulder, was for the dance. A second, in stockinette, with a pleated skirt, a jumper with square-cut neck and metal-worked border, and a sleeve-

less coatee run all over with metal threads, was for morning wear. A third was a day 'frock in opaline blue taffetas; this was ctitwith a fitting bodice and long sleeves, finished with a cream net fichu aqd cuffs, and a full, gathered skirt. The new type of corselet skirt has been shown in two separate collections of new models. It is made in two pieces: a full skirt, gathered at the natural waist on to a tight-fitting, belt-

like arrangement which reaches almost to the bust. Under this novel skirt is worn a simple blouse, but this is visible only for about eight inches below the shoulders. The effect is rather reminiscent of the peasant costumes of Poland.

Another novelty is the “ braces-skirt.” This also is cut to the normal' waistline, and is equipped back and froftt with buttons on to which satin braces are buttoned in true manly style. With a white blouse and a dark skTff/6races with gold, silver or jewelled buckles, k>6k quite smart, trim and businesslike.

The “ umbrella ” is the rather unro mantic name bestowed upon the newest circular frock which hangs straight from the shoulders. It is literally a circle of material, with an opening for the head and other openings for the arms, these and the hem being bound and embroidered. It is belted at normal, rather tightly so that the upper part may pouch back and front. There is more than a hint of a Grecian robe about this model, which for evening wear is carried out In white crepe satin with embroideries worked in gold thread, and a gold “ snake ” belt. The square-cut neckline is carrying all before it. Even the popular V is giving way, and the only line that can vie with the square is the rather high round one, into which the fulness of the bodice is gathered.

IN FRIENDSHIP’S NAME. Has friendship brought you grief of broken trust? Is Love’s dear idol shattered into dust? Are dreams all lost in disillusionment? Does sorrow dwell where once abode content? O, hide your griefs awhile!—-and wait apart, ere pass judgment in your secret heart. And ask that heart how first your comrade won Love’s early homage, ere the dream was done. Knock at the door of happy memory. Recall what was: and therefore still may be. Despite all imperfections that may mar, let all you loved be still your guiding star! Old loyalties there were that lit your days, ere some new blemish hurt vof? with amaze. Those lineaments you cherished are the same. Forget, forgive the rest, in friendship’s name. MAKE PLENTY OF CHRISTMAS MINCEMEAT. TWO TESTED RECIPES. A good supply of mincemeat is a stand-by to the housewife after Christmas, for what is left over from the festive season can be made into large mincepies for other special occasions. Here are two well-tested and wholesome recipes:— (1) lib of suet. lib of apples. lib of raisins. lib of sultanas. lib of currants. lib of candied peel. lilb of Demerara sugar. 31b of minced almonds, loz of mixed spree. The grated rind of three lemons and three oranges. The juice of one lemon and one orange. A gill of British brandy. (2) 31b of suet. 31b of apples. 31b of raisins. 21b of currants, lib of mixed peel. 21b of coarse sugar mixed with loz of spice. The juice of two lemons. A gill of British brandy. To obtain a successful mixture, the ingredients should be prepared separput into a large bowl, and thoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon. If the apples are not too juicy, they can be put through the mincing machine after beiug- .peeled, cored and cut into quarters: the suet and the mixed peel can also be minced* but each must be put through the machine by itself; the stoned raisins are best chopped’ by hand, while the sultanas and currants must be thoroughly washed, picked 'over and dried before being used. When the mixture is ready, it should be put into jars (a round of white paper dipped in brandy being pressed over the mincemeat), covered with thick paper, tied down, firmly with string, and stored in a dry place.

MODES V. MAGNETISM. (By EVELYN VIVIAN.) A woman writer solemnly informed the world the other day that dress which is perfect in every detail. alone, can win us the pleased attentions of our best friend and of .the-bus. conductor. Meet your friend in the wrong kind of rig-out, and her cordiality, freezes. -Hop on to a : bus. with the' wrong-coloured buttonhole or. a tone out in your silk stockings, and/ the gentleman who punches your ticket will regard you with laA-lustre eyes as a person of no account. Or words to that effect. And to think that all this long time ever since they’ve been booming the power of personality over posh raiment, I had been flattering myself that kindly trades people, courteous railway porters, not to mention one or two. tried and proven pals, had been loving me for myself alone! Well, well! The path of disillusion is a long one. And I, for one, refuse to tread I don’t believe a word the lady writer says. Do I not recall, many a magic morning when all the world laughed with me—my lamentably unfashionable garments notwithstanding—because .something inside myself was singing aloud for the sheer joy of being alive? Even the fishmonger’s boy, who called with the kippers on the day I had my first poem accepted, sensed something more than herrings in the air, and put added gusto into his blithe rendering of the latest musical comedy catch of the moment. And my best friend, who popped in “just for a few minutes, my dear,” became infected by my joy-day felicity to the extent of four happy hours. Nor cast one feline glance at my per-

fectly deplorable attire as we scoffed cream buns. Other days, too, when Life's sunshine persisted in struggling through the clouds, and there were nice, unmistakable goodwill glances from casual passers-by. I remember a loye- ■ ly dark-eyed girl with Parma violets in her buttonhole. I knew that she knew, [ despite the real, down-and-out, povertystricken burst shoe that was part of r the price I was paying for independent , glory in a third-fioor-back. But what did a burst shoe matter when I had just heard the Moonlight Sonata played as it ought to be played, for the first time! The Parma violets girl w ould have understood. • What fiiddlesticks it all is—this dress t?,lk! Of course, nobody’s denying the 1 tonic effect on other people of the particular brand of feminine psychological magnetism attendant on the airing of a new and becoming toilette. But that’s up a different street. There are other sorts of elation—far more potent—that can dispel the most dismal sartorial gloom, and carry the w r orld along with i't in its ecstatic wake. TAKE UP TAPESTRY. THE VOGUE FOR OLDFASIIIONED NEEDLEWORK. (By MARY LOVAT.) The woman of to-day' is an art-loving soul, impatient of amateur ineptitudes. So her needlework must perforce be of a high order. Hence the revival of the lovely art of tapestry making. Ready drafted on to suitable canvas are designs drawn from the famous tapestry periods: the periods of Chippendale, of Louis Seize, and of Queen Victoria, who, though she may not have inspired a style as delicate as those of earlier eras, did produce a needlework tapestry of great character and charm. If you are of the impatient type that cannot bear to have an interminable bit of work on hand, you will only essay a small piece—say a top for a footstool or a front for a pochette. You can work this either in single stitch (which is done from right to left, if you want to secure an even, smooth effect), or in cross-stitch, which takes a little longer, but gives you a very solid, hard-wearing result. You need not be very specially gifted in order to produce lovely bits of needling, for the strong canvas is marked out in colours, and you can match up these in good tints with the help of an experienced embroidress, whose job it is to aid customers. The 17th century designs, with baskets of roses aifti graceful arabesques, are perennial favourites. For those who prefer the geometrical, there are fine 11th century. Qqthic patterns, which looks : especially’ well in fine wools. Filoselles ■ are excellent for'the ordinary fine petit- • point-. IN THE CLOUDS. Jt was iq thq heart of Russia. The peasants were iretftfwyng from thenfield labqffrs •”whe "a. sharp, metallic noise in the air. Theydopkeri up to .see a dark shape, floating nigh above their zig-zagged;-came lower and’was wafted up again, the clicking whirr, becoming more distinct. Scy thes,'rakes and hoes fell to the groufid, - Fear crept into the honest sun-browned faces. The men stood Still • a fid* watched the curious shape, ppised, as it were, in the clouds. They -for divine protection. They felt they ..had ; ;n6s the courage to pick up their-..lmplements and make for home ;and 'tfie-' comparative safety of their huts. ,s’.They had to stand still and lyatch. - Presently one of them volun tee red a lame explanation: “Ft’ is a' bird from foreign lands. 1 had a sailor brother who told me there were, such.” “It is no bird,” interrupted an older man, with a knowing air. “It is the evil one’s chariot.” At this moment the curious shape zig-zagged,. again and came so much lower thiCf the peasants could clearly distinguish, an outline of what seemed almost like a human figure within it. . . . . . They glimpsed a lielmeted head. . . . “Did I not tell you?” said the second man triumphantly. “It is his cart. And he is driving it himself. Who else could soar in the clouds?” And the terrified peasants began crossing themselves. At that moment a man came near, and his well-cut clothes attracted the peasants. Impulsively they turned to him. “Tell us, Baryn (Sir),” they cried in chorus, “about this monstrous thing in the air. Is it a bird or . . . the evil one?” The man, whose eyes were those of a poet, looked up and smiled. The simplicity of these grown-up children made

him _\vapt. to _tell them things of comfort. Just at that moment the crimson wave of the setting sun brushed against the curious shape, and it gleamed golden and wonderful —a thing ot rare beauty. “It is no bird.” he replied slowly, “nor is it the evil one. Look, the sun is on it, kissing it. . . . Thing you the very sun would not grow black if the evil one rode in the clouds?”

NEW FASHIONS FOR THE SPORTSWOMAN.

They listened, half-persuaded and very quiet, and he went on: “It is the chariot of God’s own Archangel, if you will. It is meant to bring scattered peoples nearer one to another, i Look at it! Isn’t it beautiful?” The curious shape was flying off towards the purple-green horizon. The , peasants watched its flight, all fear vanishing from their faces. The “baryn” knew what he was talking r about. They had but to believe him. ; They did. And to this day there are old men and women in this tiny village, all but , lost in the forest heart of Russia, who : believe it. —Edith M. Almedingcn. FEMININE FABLES. Once, Cordelia had known what Love was. Spelt with a capital “L.” That was in the Springtime of Life, when only one thing mattered. Later, there came a day when other interests took Love’s place. Cordelia made a commonsenso marriage, with one who was willing that she should pursue her : career, and leave the conduct of her household to more domesticated hands. . She found friendship in marriage and fame in her caree'r. One morning, a street, musician played a familiar air outside the “desirable residence” that was her home. The half-forgotten melody took her back to the days when hawthorn-blossom filled the hedges, and the same song, on the lips of Youth, filled her own young heart. Deliberately she turned again to her work, jotting down notes that must not be allowed to escape her memory. But those otfier. nates insisted on being remembered; too. They floated in through the open window, plaintive and sweet. Cordelia shut it close, f Then walked back to her desk, and read her publisher’s last letter, fulsome ! in its cordiality. “Life,” she said, “is j made up of other things than Love with a capital ‘L’ ”. Flinging wide the window once more, she threw a halfcrown to the seedy minstrel, and lit up a cigarette. Faintly from the mists of yesteryear, the scent of hawthornblossom was wafted from a dream of Spring. Faintly, from the street below, came the dving fall of a song. • —M. de F\ grape fruit marmalade. Cut the fruit in halves and remove the pulp and pips. Place, the pips in cold water, and allow to stand twentyfour hours. Shred the peel very finely and cut the pulp in pieces. Weigh all these ingredients and for every pound add three pints of water; leave for twelve hours. Now boil for three-quar-ters of an hour, or until the peel’ is quite soft, and can-be easily pierped. j The third day. strain off the pips; then' add one and a half pounds of sugar to the jelly. Boil, until .it is clear and jellies on a cold plate. WHEN YOU DANCE. • Don’t hurry-over your dressing when you’re going to a dance. It is better to be ten minutes late and arrive feeling perfectly satisfied with your appearance, rather than get there on the minute looking anything but wellgroomed. The very prettiest hair has been known to look duil and lifeless when seen under the strong lights of the dance room. But a few drops of brilliantine sprinkled on to your brush and brushed well into your hair will give it. a sparkle that is certain to call forth the admiration of j-our friends. It isn’t necessary to make up jour eyebrows and lashes when you go dancing, but it is essential that they should receive a little attention. Here, again, brilliantine will serve your purpose. Just shake a drop or two on the lip of your finger and smooth it carefully over your eyebrows shaping them into a nice smooth line. Then apply a little to the lashes, working from the underneath upwards to induce them to curl slightly. But remember—brilliantine must always be added after the final application of puwder otherwise the result is disastrous. If you are pale, don’t hesitate to use a little rouge, but be very careful how you apply it. You will use dry rouge, of course, and you must be certain to get the right, shade for your particular type of skin. If you have any doubt, the assistant will advise you. When you apply it, dab a little just below each cheekbone and work it well in with the lingers until you get a nice, even effect that looks perfectly natural. Be sure you get both cheeks alike. So many girls fail to do this, and then they wonder how people guess that they make up. Don’t powder your arms. It isn’t necessary, and I’ve never yet come across' a liquid powder that will stay on a whole evening. Besides it isn’t fair to scatter powder all over youi partner’s black coat.