WOMEN AND THE HOME

Star (Christchurch), Issue 18015, 27 November 1926, Page 18

WOMEN AND THE HOME

A LETTER FROM PARIS. (By DIAXA DANE). A few weeks ago some of the rlress designers made a noble effort to launch the old-fashioned "blouse’' once more. But the feminine - world was reluctant •to submit even to- the very slightly compressed waist which these blouses would entail. It was found also that the hem of the garment being necessarily tucked inside the skirt in the time-honoured way, caused unsightly Bulges on trim hips. The blouse proper, as opposed to the jumper blouse, was therefore consigned to the limbo of unwanted things! The Jumper Blouse. But the “tailor-made” designers, nothing daunted, offered yet another suggestion, the result of which, is a completely charming, altogether feminine example of the blouse-maker’s art. Ij' is the jumper-blouse that is cut as trimly and as simply as any “shift” worn by our grandmothers; it fits perfectly over the shoulders, and equally perfectly at the hips. The “trimmings” consist of groups of flat pleats or tucks, .somewhat similar to those on a man’s soft evening shirt. These jumperblouses, expressed in sillk, crepe, mustrjin- of lawn, are ideal wear , for the “tailor-made” woman, who clings to :-her uncompromising straight lines in r spite of the opposition vogue for frill}*, ' feminine ones. j The Tunic of the Season. { Another very desirable mode of the 1 moment is the tunic frock. Another j revival, you say? Certainly it is. And j an extremely useful and economical | one. The tunic frock sketched here * was originally designed to be carried out in two shades of green Kasha; but . imagine the charm of it expressed in * two -shades of blue- crepe georgette, or in two tones of rose marocain; or even in the • perennial “magpie” colourings !. ; It is economical in that one straight, f -well-cut under-dress may be utilised for * wear with several tunics of more or less {■ decorative types; and it is perfectly | happy beneath one of the full-length lace overdresses which are having quite a little vogue of their own. j Dance Frocks. ’ Dan.ce frocks are adorable!’ With the exception of those exquisite digni"fied models designed for the older woman, they are full of youthful, almost elfin charm! Talking of elfin charm—orae frock I saw at a recent show seemed to have been made ex-

grossly for some dainty wood nymph! ir, was in the palest -“water-green” chiffon, posed over shimmering silver tissue. The chiffon skirt, cut in numerous uneven flounces, was caught up here and there with sparkling bead-eiliroid-ered butterflies, while round the low waist was a circle of green, chiffon and silver tissue roses, in the tiny hearts ct which nestled baby butterflies with jewelled bodies. Black and white ensembles are having a wonderful time at dances! One particularly effective toilette was composed of ivory white chiffon, perfectly plain as to bodice, sleeveless, and beautifully cut The short skirt had a flounce of rather wide, very cobwebby black lace at the hem; another rather narrower flounce, a little higher; still

another narrower one above that; and so on. until the waistline was reached, when the cobwebby black lace was nc more than a couple of inches wide. This new lace, by the way, is so very ethereal and so very fairy-like in its delicate tracery that there is-not' the slightest l suggestion of heaviness -even •when it-is used somewhat lavishly; Black satin • ribbon provides an '-Attractive alternative to the black lace scheme on a dainty white foundation. The frock sketched here is materialised in white georgette .. with ; black satin ribbon trirrliing the- full, skirt' and forming a very wide sash wit); a huge bow at the side. PICTURE FRAME NOVELTIES .. , (Bv MARY L'OVAT)’. The time-honoured gilt or wooden moulding; is no longer considered the only possible means of providing a suitable frame for a picture. Each season brings more and more original ideas, and. although many people still prefer the conventional frame, these; new no- . tions are not without interest. Some modern -artists, for example, favour the view that a frame need, not necessarily be colourless ! If it repeats the dominant colour scheme of the picture, the;* say, so much ..the better for it! Some French artists actually continue'passages of the picture on to the frame itself, many using a plain deal frame and’applying to it the same pigments as those used in the composition within. Others less boldly employ a moulding : in gilt or' polished wood, and pick out its decoration in certain of .the same tones, thus achieving undeniaßfe unity and harmony. Leather is the latest material to be requisitioned for picture framing, and this is treated in a variety of ways. Tooled after the manner of old Italian and Spanish book-bindings, it has definite charm as a frame for an oilpainting, while a highly polished tinted leather also proves most effective. ■Embossed leather is excellent for framing portraits, and, delicately painted with sprays of foliage and flowers, it may be used for pictures of a more decorative type Pictures look well against a back-

ground of brocade, so why not try a brocade frame? x This idea lias sug gested itself to one woman, who makes her own frames from fiat lengths of wood, neatly covered in brocade of handsome design and mellow colourings. A few tacks make all firm and secure. NOTES ON THE NEW SHOES. The extent of the navy blue revival is measurable by the newly established demand for navy kid shoes. These are piped with black suede or with patent. Shoes of all kinds arc cut appreciably higher than the sandal style, which has been the almost universal footwear for the last few months. The -buckled shoe of Quaker inspiration is returning—but in a vastly improved design that ensures a close and comfortable fit about th 6 ankle. The Parisienne is much disgruntled by the manufacturers’ insistence on the long, narrow shoe with pointed toe, which onlv the American girl can carry off with real success. But th<> Parisienne wears it, because apres tout La Mode is—La Mode. Though “fancy” skin? are still very much in evidence, the dernier cri models are neither of snakeskin uor ante lope, nor zebra, but of good plain kid, of very soft and supple texture. Heels are high, but not tapering, being fashioned on Cuban lines. In the evening comes the antithesis of the plain kid vogue. Trimmings, strappings, jewelled insteps—all contribute to fanciful, not to say fantastic, i effects CORNERS. The streets are full of interesting corners, but how sadly lacking in this respect is the average room? Yet corners skilfully treated, may lie full cf charm and allure. I am not singing the praises of standard lamps, of pedestals bearing aloft a fern pot. of “cosy” seats where you feel ostracised from society ; rather have beautiful lamp of deep sapphire glass, that -needs but a night-light within it to give forth a mysterious blue radiance. It is suspended by metal chains from the ceiling, and, being long and pointed, supplies all the embellishment that is necessary in any corner. A curtained comer may be beautifully successful if the curtain be an interesting one, with landscape appliques. A flight of seagulls over a moonlit sea, a clump of irises at the j marge of a lake, an army of butterI flies against a background of dull ! orange—these and a hundred other , ideas suggest themselves! The curtain is useful, too, for hiding the shelves whereon are ranged beloved but shabby books and paper covered novels. Few people think of setting a bureau right across the corner of the j room; yet in this position it is more j isolated, and is, therefore, more inspiri ing to the letter-writer. On the walls : behind it, hang some little picture that has something intimate to you. and upon the top place a Couple of • tall candlesticks to make you independent of the central light.

CARE OF CHILDREN'S HAIR. The hair of young children is very often naturally beautiful, but neglect or bad treatment causes it. to become dull, heavy, and lank. Young babies should have their heads washed every day, but as they grow older such frequent washings are unnecessary. It is not wise to wash the hair of a child of three years and upwards more than once a fortnight, and if the children live in the country, where the air is weeks is generally sufficient. Only the purest superfatted soap should be used, and warm, not very hot, water - rainwater is best. The hair should be rinsed in luke warm water, rubbed partly dry with soft, warm towels, and finally dried in the open air if the weather is mild and dry. Soft hair brushes should be used for children's hair, and, if possible, each child should have Jus own brush, kept, when not in use, in his own little bag. Hair brushes should be washed frequently. The hair should be brushed with firm but gentle strokes. <md the comb used but little. The hair should be cut about once a month. Most little girls have short hair now, but when it. is allowed to grow long, it should be even more carefully treated. Long hair should be plaited into one or two loose plaits for school and at night. Very dry hair will benefit from an occasional massage with warm olive oil. Do not let a child wear a hat in the house, or when playing in a shady garden. A dose of mild sunshine is good for 'the ■hair: • TEA POSTED FREE TO COUNTRY. Every day the. choice Biplane Tea, in Ceylon blend or china, is posted free to the homes of many country and suburban residents who.se grocers do not stock it. os 2d in stamps sent to the Biplane Tea Depot brings this choice economical tea into your home. Try it and enjoy its delightful flavour. 81)15

PICTURESQUE OPERA WRAP,

FAMILIAR JOYS. Familiar joys, that freshly sweet and fair, hold simple happiness beyond compare! The sleeping buds to waking beauty stirred; the first clear woodland note of springtime bird; the tiniest flowers • that in the hedgerows bloom; pale shafts of sunlight in the humblest room. They are the gleams that light the path of Life; the melody amidst discordant strife. How we would miss our joys of everyday, that greet and bless us on our pilgrim's way! The cosy talks; the jqlly, friendly books; the interchange of understanding looks; the downy cushions on the shabby chair; the well-loved footfall on the winding stair; the old brown teapot and the cup that cheers; the lightest touch that heart to heart endears. How dull and drear and lonesome we should be, bereft of Love’s dear gift of sympathy! The word of solace when Life’s song is sad; the answering handclasp when the music’s glad; the smile that kindles darkness like a star. Familiar joys, but oh, how sweet they are!

THE VALUE OF RAIN WATER In hard water districts the collection of a small quantity of rain-water is well worth while for the washing of woollens and coloured things. If the tank is provided with a wooden cover, the water is kept free from dust and smuts, in towns where the roofs are dirty, the water should be strained through two or three thicknesses of muslin l>efore being used for the laundering of light-coloured garments. Less soap is required to obtain a lather with rain-water than with ordinary tapBEAUTY HINTS. Sitting up late at night will cause grey hair as will nothing else. It makes those dark circles about the eyes, and causes the “windows of the soul'’ to lose half their lustre and softness and beauty. Who ever saw a pretty woman with dull, lifeless eyes? Mie wouldn’t be pretty were she so afflicted. By sleeping properly, the body is kept stronger and fresher, and thus the complexion is benefited greatly. Wrinkles do not come so soon, the skin does not take on that muddy yellow hue as it would otherwise, and checks are pink and rosy with that greatest of all rouges—health. One danger in the use of cosmetics is the neglect of the general health. When the skin is muddy. or. sallow, it is. generally a sign that there is some derangement of the blood or stomach, and likewise when a eoid-Sorc or pimple appears. Instead of trying to cover these blemishes with cosmetics, one should seek out the cause and then go to the root of the trouble. Wise people, when they have toothache, go to the dentist rather than to a druggist. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Beauty has two great friends; the cosmetic maker and the physician.

TREATMENT FOR FRECKLES Freckles are by no means unendearing—to a certain type they provide chic. But deep and persistent freckles beyond the mere faint powdering of nose or forehead, are not only ugly but actually injurious to the skin. Prevention is better than cure. All women with red hair and a milky skin or the sensitive blonde type freckle easily. Such should wear wide-brim-med hats, preferably lined with orange, carry orange sunshades, and use a specially protective vanishing cream. If freckles do appear, there arc several easy remedies. The simplest consists of equal parts of fresh lemon juice and glycerine dabbed on and left to dry. This or boracic lotion painted on with a brush will cure light freckles. Deeper ones may yield to a lotion made from loz peroxide of hydrogen, (10 vols.). glycerine, eau dc Cologne, and rosewater. An old-fashioned remedy is made from an ounce of red rose petals infused in 12 fluid ounces of hot water. After crushing the petals and straining off the fluid, add 30 grains of citric acid to each half pint. Dissolve, leave to stand for 12 hours, and draw off all the clear part of the mixture. This needs to be applied regularly twice a day, as do the anti-freckle lotions made from half ounce alunr a teacupful of fresh milk, and a few drops of eau de Cologne, or the zinc preparations, or the freshly expressed juice of a cucumber mixed with buttermilk, all of which are effective freckle antidotes. STRAWBERRY JELLY. Put one pound of strawberries and half a pint of white wine into a saucepan. Place over the fire and stir. Whilst it is simmering, add one ounce of gelatine, which has been dissolved previously in half a pint of warm water, and two table-spoonsful of sugar. Pour the mixture through a very fine sieve; re-heat and pour into a mould and leave in a cold place to set. Turn out and serve. MOTHER AND HOME. BE PREPARED FOR ACCIDENTS. It is a good plan for a small firstaid outfit to be included in every holi-day-maker’s luggage. Even if one is going to a town where there are several doctors and chemists’ shops, it is well to have at hand all the things necessary for dealing with a slight accident. When one is camping, touring, or staying at a remote farmhouse, these things are doubly important. An ordinary small biscuit tin makes a good place in which to store the outfit, which should include a sharp scissors, safety pins, bandages of various sizes or strips of old linen, and a small supply of boric lint and cotton-wool. A small bottle of iodine is necessary, so are a flask of brandy, a bottle of castor oil, and a hot-water bottle. Many women will like to include their own special medicine for the family, and a bottle, of embrocation or liniment for treating sprains. A small bottle of olive or carron oil is good for burns and scalds, and boracic lotion is invaluable for the eyes. Eau de Cologne and a good dusting powder should also be included. If small quantities are taken, corks are tightly overed with oiled silk, and everything is firmly packed, the holiday medicine' chest should not take up a great deal ■ f room, and its contents should travel •a safety. LOOKING AFTER A PERAMBULATOR. Perambulators should be kept in good condition by regular daily atten tioa. Every day after being used a perambulator should be dusted, and rain and mud marks removed. Never allow any crumbs, etc., to remain in the perambulator. Hoods should be fixed in place frequently, and thoroughly dusted, then rubbed with a good furnishing cream. Sometimes a tvre may work loose‘ and come off before it is much worn, and when this occurs the metal rims should be freed from soil, painted with a good varnish, and the tyre pressed back into place while the varnish is still wet. It is not a very difficult matter to re-line a shabby perambulator. The old lining should be carefully removed and used as a pattern from which to cut out a new one m American cloth. This should be fixed into position with upliols- j terer's pins, and the edges can be made neat with upholstery braid. . SAVE YOUR STRING. From your bag of odd bits of string you can .make a cute little kettle holder. Crochet a six-inch chain and work backwards and forwards in treble stitch until you have formed a square. Make a little loop at. one of the corners, and Jiang the holder in a bandy spot near the stove. A string kettle holder doesn't get so messy as a cloth one, and also looks more out of the ordinary. Anyone- with a hook and string need oniy squander ten minutes over making it. HOW TO BOTTLE FRUIT. Have your bottles in readiness—you will require tall, wide-necked ones, anti be sure that they are perfectly clean and dry. Each bottle will take approximately one pound of fruit, which should be in firm condition, and not too ripe. You will also need some good, hard mutton suet—rather more than one pound to six bottles. With these in readiness, proceed in the following Light the gas in the oven, and put the shelves far apart—so that there is comfortable room for the bottles to stand. Then pack each bottle closely with fruit; give each one a shako oe casionally while filling, to get the fruit to fall into place as much as possible Now fold a sheet of paper the of your oven shelf, and put it in the oven for the bottles to stand on, wise they might crack. Put in all the bottles, and turn the gas as low as it will go. Leave them for half an hour, and during this time put on a large kettle of water. Cu f the suet into small pieces and put in a saucepan on the gas. turning it about occasionally and squeezing it. When the fruit has been in the oven for half an hour, carefully lift the bottles, put them on the table, and cover the fruit in each with boiling water; then immediately take a strainer in your left hand and run some of the melted mutton fat (about an inch in thickness) on each one. Both the boiling water and the fa*, must be put on without any delay. After this, tie the bottles down securely, and store in a dry place.

Lemon Tartlets.—lngredients: Quarter of a pound of pastry, lemon curd, one dessertspoonful, of lemon juice, the white of one egg, a pinch of grated lemon rind, two ounces of caster sugar. Line patty pans with short pastry. Put in each a layer of lemon curd, sprinkle a little lemon juice over and bake in a moderate oven ten to fifteen minutes. Whip the egg white until stiff and dry. Gently stir in the sugar and lemon rind. Pile a little on each tartlet, and set in a very slow oven.