WOMEN AND THE HOME

Star (Christchurch), Issue 18009, 20 November 1926, Page 18

WOMEN AND THE HOME

A LETTER FROM PARIS. By DIANA DANE. Frocks of the persuasion fire creating quite a sensation at the dress show.s- They billow so seductively, “frou-frou" so charmingly, that most women, I imagine, will include one or more in their wardrobes. The “Picture” frock appears in many guises. It may be merely the well-beloved bouffant gown, with a fitting bodice and a full, spreading skirt Perhaps its spreading skirt is further adorned with picot-edged flounces, or with frills of delicate lace; or it may be made to stand out from the hips by means of tiny cane or wire “hoops,” as were the dresses of our grandmothers. lit whatever form it presents itself, the picture frock cannot be wrong, so Iqng as its wearer looks “right” in it! Quite apart from the bouffant gown, a charming effect of frilly fulness may be secured with separate over panels, which float out from the natural waistline, leaving visible the slim skirt beneath. This is a very pretty style for the young girl's dance frock, and one model expressed it beautifully in very fine cloth of silver over which

floated loose shell pink lace panels, the pattern of the lace being picked out with shaded sequins. Silver shoes and the new silk net stockings in shell pink: a huge single ostrich feather fan in the same shade, and a sequin embroidered net filet encircling the shingled head of the wearer, were complementary details which helped this toilette to stand out as one of the daintiest in the salon.

For afternoon frocks with long sleeves, the lace or embroidered chiffon puff is finding many admirers. Similar lace or chiffon is used on the skirt in the form of full inset side panels, which flare out like godets. These side flares supply the reason, as it were, for the introduction of the puffs on the sleeves.

One of the most useful, as well as the most charming “little frock” models is expressed in georgette printed in an all-over tracery design, which is rather refreshing after the floral patterns which have held sway during the past months. Cut without sleeves and with a moderately high neck, the gown

maintains long, slim lines to below the hips, whence it flares suddenly into a sort of glorified flounce. The waistbelt, which is noticeable on most of the- new models, encircles the hips and the bodice pouches over it in the approved manner. The new and very artistic broche georgette is to have a great vogue for afternoon frocks, as well as for evening gowns and wraps. Such exquisite combinations of shades would scarcely be possible in any other material ; but here the vivid tones and the subdued ones harmonise so perfectly that the}' produce a colour poem which will charm the most fastidious amongst us. One of the chief joys about this material is the fact that it needs no trimming whatever. The lovely shades, the delightful way in which the}' are grouped, and the light airiness of the georgette demand that the gown be left quite unadorned. To trim a frock like this would be to spoil it; therefore, though broche georgette is not cheap, it is a sound proposition for the woman of modest means. Afternoon frocks may have long, wing-like sleeves of plain georgette in the same colour as the foundation; and these are often edged with narrow bands of the broche, alternatively for matron’s wear, they may be hemmed with the new soft velvet in exactly the same shade. Some wonderful trimming effects are obtained with nothing more than row upon row of tiny pin-tucks. On crepe or georgette, or even on chiffon, these minute tucks are worked in criss-cross designs, in squares, in plaid or check patterns, or they are simply used running straight down and round the gown. In whatever manner they are employed, they arc distinctly attractive. the very simplicity of the trimming and the excellence of the work which is necessary to make it a success, marking the frock immediately i ar one quite out of the ordinary. | Bin tucks are used also on the finest lawn lingerie, which is still dear to the heart of the dainty woman. Sometimer. they constitute the only not* of relief on an exquisitely hand-made set of finest handkerchief lawn, though, occasionally, deep hems of white net , or hand-made lace insertion lend a more decorative note.

HOME MANAGEMENT. HINTS FOR THE BRIDE. (By Phyllis Monkman). Home management demands skill, decision and. above all, patience! . Theoretical knowledge of homecraft does not always stand the practical test of every day life. All sorts of unforeseen conditions, especially in relation to finance and the cost of living, loom in the path of the youthful couple. ‘ Perhaps the greatest problem which confronts young home-makers is not how to avoid spending beyond income -foolishness for which there is no excuse^ —but how to spend to' the best ad- > vantage, giving each claim its legitimate share of available funds. Nec«Ssiti«;r First I In making the new home, one of the commonest mistakes is that of buying, at the beginning, things which could reasonably have been dispensed with for some years; and neglecting to acquire the dull, but very necessary, pieces -of household machinery which make for efficient house-keeping. It is folly to mak£ a purchase, wildly. on the spur of the moment!' On second thoughts and viewed more calmly, it becomes clear that the “plunge” cannot be afforded. Never be intrigued into spending more money than you intended to spend. A cushion. a chair, a vase, that is not really wanted but is bought because it happens to please the eye at the moment, becomes a burden rather than a pleasure. When you get home, add up the expenditure, and compare the total with the amount which should have been spent- then begins the trouble of striking a balance! On Credit. Never abuse the privilege and convenience of having “credit accounts.” Young wives especially are often tempted to buy whatever appeals to them and to have it “entered”— but it is very bad discipline. If this unthinking habit is not checked, debts will accumulate until they become a source cf grave anxiety; tears and recriminations will follow—and here ends the peaceful life in the new home! Use the credit system if you will; but only so far as the income will comfortably bear it. Save Hard. , The failure to save is another frequent cause of trouble in the new home. Rainy days do come in the best regulated households, and it is far better to ask: “How much can we put away without stinting?” than to wonder feverishly; “How much can we spend ? ” Saving hard, in these days, is a habit well wprth while; it makes for happiness, to have a balance in the bank ! KINKS. There are folks who can mock and make merry, when other folks' kinks give them fits; but they simmer with rage when their own kinks engage the attentio of mimics and wits. They think that to them is allotted a sort of divine right of kings, to laugh at. their kind, who never must mind, and must never hit back when it stings! There are kinks that must often rouse laughter, that gemline fun will condone; and between me and you, all humorists true, learn first how to laugh at their own! ! H.S.

PREMATURE GREYNESS. Premature greyness is increasing. A generation ago fifty was early for greying hair. Nowadays it is quite common for men and women in their early thirties to have hair which is nearly grey. Some say that the loss of the hair colouring pigment is clue to the use of electric light; others attribute it to nerve strain. Grey hair suits some fair-skinned women, but to the dark-complexioned woman it is by no means so .becorping. Premature greyness can be arrested if treated at once. An iron tonic should be taken regularly for six. weeks, then an interval of six weeks missed, and the tonic started again and taken for another six weeks. Scalp massage, with a little pure castor oil, is excellent for preventing greyness spreading. First massage the scalp with dry fingers, going over the entire head from the forehead to the nape of the neck. Then pour a little of the castor oil into a saucer, and, dipping the fingers into it, rub well into the roots. Then give a good brushing with a clean hair brush, and allow the air to circulate through it. This treatment should be given every other day for six weeks.

SARTORIAL SNAPSHOTS. The waistcoat vogue has very definitely “caught on." And not only as the smart finish to very gentlemanly tailored suits. Someone —a very important somone— retrieved one of these delicious, old-world, flowered affairs in scrunchy silk from the shadowy recesses of an antique shop, and converted the Georgian gilet into a perfect close-fitting bodice for wear with a bouffant skirt of plain taffetas to tone. And thus are fashions born ! “Stilt” heels in the Cuban manner may have captured the Parisienne’s fancy, but they are not conspicuously popular in London. There is obviously to be. a revival of the quite low heel. Chic shoe shops are making special displays of the most fascinating evening sandals in elusive shades of bois-de-rose satin. These feature the low heel and the distinctly rounded toe that is its logical complement. The one singly fastening-strap springs from a cut-away triangular strap, rather like those on the exceedingly smart little shoes from Czecho-Slovakia that have had such a vogue. The airy-fairy frocks of the modern dance-rooms sometimes achieve their effects in the simplest manner. As, for instance, the pretty little fashion of setting long ribbon streamers on the shoulder, “helped” with a shoulderposy, the same notion being repeated at the hipline. The last word in fobs is nothing more nor less than a large bow of spotted ribbon dangling from the breast pocket. Fobs arc extremely popular just now. Diamond watches in the new flat long shape are set into a strip of black moire ribbon and worn as fobs. The vanity bags of the momen't are all out to show how much decorative work can be crammed on to a comparatively small surface. Fine leather is raised and coloured to represent those dear little figurine cameos that adorned old-world ornaments in great-grand-mamma’s day. Rich and sumptuous embroideries are mounted with fine leather borders. Glittering sequins, and “pukka” or “pinchbeck" jewels, adorn evening bags. For day time, bags are made in the same leather as shoes, a conceit that no doubt originated in the fancy for decorative shoe leathers cf the lizard and snakeskin persuasion. Shoes and bags are now displayed side by side in the big shops, exactly matching as to skin and colouring. SALTED ALMONDS. W A SIMPLE HOME RECIPE. Pour hot water over the shelled almonds and allow it to remain only until the skins are loose, or the nuts will become sodden. Spread the nuts to dry in a warm place, covering them carefully to keep free from dust. In about twenty-four hours the almonds will be dry and crisp; but this part of the business should not be hurried. When the nuts are quite dry, take the white of a fresh egg and beat it very lightly—just enough to break it. Moisten the tips of the fingers, or a camel hair brush, with this and rub or paint the nuts on each .side, using as little egg as possible. Dust over with fine table salt, and brown in a slow oven. Almonds thus prepared will remain crisp and never turn rancid, as do those soaked in butter.

SCRAP-BOOK WALLPAPERS. The “scrapbook wall treatment” as exploited in the house of an eminent architect and decorator, relies almost entirely on engravings and illustrations taken from old books. Some of the books arc historical; some are volumes ol’ travel; some again are treatises on botany or animal life. These books are not necessarily of great value; if they were it would be sacrilege to tear out the illustrations. They are, however, of sufficient age to have the interest of quaintness and curiosity. The second-hand bookstalls will provide plenty of these volumes at very small In preparing the walls for scrapbook treatment, a plain white paper should first be applied as a background. But in order to give character and a touch of colour to the scheme the white paper should be broken up into separate panels: for this it will be necessary to apply “surrounds” in another tone —say in lemon yellow or pale green. To neaten the junction of the two papers, a narrow border should be applied all round the panels, and this may be used to break up the panels themselves into a sort of checkered design. As far as possible only “scraps” of the same size and shape should be used for the one panel. These need not cover the entire surface, but may be pasted on it, corner to corner, to leave unadorned spaces in between. A good effect is gained by cutting off the corners of each print diagonally; the slanting ends can then be placed against one another to secure a variety in spacing. SUGGESTIONS FOR SANDWICHES. Tasty, nourishing sandwiches which do not easily become “ messy ” are often needed for picnics, train journeys, school and office lunches and afternoon tea. Egg and Anchovy.—Take a hard-boil-ed egg, remove the yolk, mix it with a little butter and a teaspoonful of anchovy paste. Spread on buttered bread. Cheese Sandwiches.—Two ounces of grated cheese, one ounce of butter, mixed mustard, pepper and salt, thin slices of bread and butter. Grate the cheese very finely. Any little scraps of stale cheese can be used. Mix well with the butter, and season with pepper (and salt, if required), and a very little mixed mustard. Spread on slices of bread and butter, and make into sandwiches. Bridge Sandwiches.—Some cold ham, cucumber, brown bread, and butter. Cut some thin slices of bread and butter, also slice the cucumber thinly. Put latter on plate, sprinkle with salt and vinegar, leave for five minutes and then drain. Spread one slice of bread and butter with ham, cover with slices of cucumber and another slice of buttered bread, cut into three-cornered shaped pieces, and cover closely till wanted. Sicilian Sandwiches.-—Remove the skin and bones from six to eight sardines, and pound them with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and one and a half ounces of butter. Season with a

tcaspoonful of lemon juice, a sprinkling of pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Mix until perfectly smooth. Spread this paste between slices of brown bread and blitter. Chocolate Sandwiches.—Grated chocolate. cream, brown bread and butter. Put the chocolate on a slice of brown bread and butter, spread over a spoonful of whipped cream, sweetened and flavoured with vanilla, cover with another slice of bread and butter and cut into fingers. Salad Sandwiches.—-Mustard and cress, salt, pepper, brown bread and butter, half-gill of mayonnaise sauce, one bunch of watercress, one tablespoonful of cream. Cut some thin slices of brown bread and butter, wash the mustard and cress and watercress, and, after removing all unsightly pieces and long stalks, chop them lightly. Mix the cream and the mayonnaise sauce together, and stir in the chopped salading. Add salt and pepper if necessary, and spread on the bread and butter. Make into sandwiches, cut into small triangles. Dish on a d'oyley and garnish with a little watercress or small bunches of mustard and cress. Tomato Sandwiches. —These are very simple but refreshing on a journey on a warm day. Remove the skins from some firm potatoes, which should be cut into slices, dusted with pepper and .salt, and laid on slices of white bread and butter. 'Do not use very fresh bread for tomato sandwiches.

TESTED RECIPES. Almond Fingers—Half a pound of ground almonds, half a pound of caster sugar, quarter of a pound of flour, one egg, a little apricot jam. Mix flour, almonds and sugar and moisten to a stiff paste with beaten egg; knead until Smooth and lav an hour to “ firm ” on a sugared plate. Divide paste in two, roll out—with glass jar—into thin sheets, lay one on a floured tin, brush over with warm apricot jam. cover over; lightly together and cut with a sugared knife into narrow fingers. Bake in a cool oven about fifteen minutes ' until set and very lightly coloured. Leave until cold as they break easily when hot. Delicious little cakes. Rock Cakes—Eight ounces oi selfraising flour, four ounces of sugar, three ounces of butter, three ounces of currants, two eggs. Rub butter into flour, add sugar and currants and mix to a rather firm dough with slightly beaten *eggs; form into small rocky piles with a fork, dropping them on a buttered tin, and bake about fifteen to twenty minutes in a moderate oven. A New Way with Fruit Custard.— Half fill a piedish with fresh fruit, such as raspberries, or stewed fruit, such as apples or stoned plums or apricots. Sprinkle fresh fruit well with sugar and lemon juice. Thicken a pint of milk with a dessertspoonful of cornflour, previously mixed in a little cold milk, sweeten to taste, pour the hot cornflour on the yolk of an egg. Stir well, cool, then flavour with lemon essence. Place this over the fruit. Whip the white of the egg to a stiff froth, mix with it two tablespoonfuls of caster sugar and a little grated lemon rind. Pile this on the custard and leave in a warm place or a cool oven to set. Tomato Chutney.—Required : 41b of tomatoes, lib of apples, loz of crushed mustard seed, *oz of ground ginger, 3 small onions, *lb of cooked beetroot, 2oz of salt, 1 small teaspoonful of cayenne, li pints of malt vinegar, 31b of moist sugar. Choose sound, rather under-ripe tomatoes and put them into a preserving pan. Bruise them with a wooden spoon, add the apples cut in quarters but not peeled. Peel the beetroot and put it through a mincer. Peel, chop and add the onions with all the other ingredients except the sugar to the tomatoes. Bring to the boil and simmer until the mixture begins to soften, then add the sugar. When soft, rub through a hair sieve Reheat, stirring all the. time, and leave for a day or two before bottling. Egg and Tomato Salad.—Boil three eggs hard. Chop whites and rub the

I yolks through sieve. Cut a slice off a tops of three tomatoes and take out | centres, rub them through a sieve, mix ' | pulp with chopped whites, yolks (reserving a little for garnish) and a little mayonnaise. Fill tomato cases with j this. Arrange lettuce in salad bowl, sprinkle with oil and vinegar dressing. Place tomatoes on this, pile more mayonnaise on them and sprinkle with egg yolk. LEMON HONEYCOMB. | This delicious lemon sweet is prepared as fpllows:— Put into a dish the juice of a good sized lemon, with ten ounces of powdered sugar; whisk the white of an • egg, one pint of cream and one ounce ' of powdered sugar into a stiff froth; ; skim off the froth as it forms and lay 1 it upon the lemon juice until all the cream is exhausted. Let it stand for a day before serving. Women who are fortunate enough to possess a garden should make a point ; of seeing that a part of it is set aside I for the growing of herbs. If the garden is a Large one it may be possible to * have in it a iittle herb garden, in | which charming old-fashioped herbs, seldom seen to-day can be cultivated. But in every garden, large or smali, the ordinary herbs required often for cookery pttrposes should be sown. Parsley and mint are easy to grow, and are always in demand by cooks; yet how often quite good-sized gardens lack them! Sage is a decorative plant, ' and for its beauty alone it deserves a place in every garden plot. Thyme must not be forgotten, and, if there is room, there should be one or two bay trees, for bay leaves are useful [ for flavouring purposes. In northern ' gardens verbena will grow out of doors - all the year round, and on account of its sweet lemon scent it should, if possible, be given a sheltered spot. Then there are marjoram, tarrogon, and » basil., and, of course, rosemary. Marsh--1 mallows and marigolds, though not 1 herbs, are not out of place in a herb * garden, which, to add to its sweetness, ■ might be edged with bushes of laven- : der. Towards the end of summer a * stock of herbs should be gathered for l winter use. Gather the herbs on a fine ' day, and dry them first in a shady . place out of doors. When they _ are j . nearlv dry place them on trays in a 1 1 cool oven to finish drying. When the leaves are quite brittle rub them from ■ ■ the stalks and put them into bottles [ : , with well-fitting corks.