BACK FROM THE WILDS

Star (Christchurch), Issue 18009, 20 November 1926, Page 17

BACK FROM THE WILDS

Continent may prove Eskimos Immigrated

Smith-Wylie Expedition Returns to Civilisation and its Comforts

(Written for the “Star by B. C. Ryder, F\R.G.S.)

THE mosJL arduous of undertakings have at limes their tighter side, and a series of prolonged calms, during our passage of the outer islands of the Buccanncer Archipelago, gave us plenty of leisure. By this time our stock of gramophone records had been played time and time again, until they had long lost their interest. All of us were showing signs of wear and tear, possessing beards of considerable dimensions, not having shaved for many weeks. With no wind, and a tropic sun beating down we would lie under the awn inf” wondering what was happening in the world of news, as we had been out of touch with civilisation for many weeks. Our specimen casks were well filled with preserved specimens of fish, we had enough shark jaws and fins adorning the rigging to start a good-sized museum. In fact, the proceeds of a night’s catch of fish was strung from the two masts, to dry in the sun, giving us the appearance of a Chinese junk. The decks were covered with specimens of coral, that were unpleasant to tread upon with our bare feet, while from the stern dangled a sack containing clam • shells that were put there to dry in the sun, and as the days wore on, the fragrance of the sharks’ fins, and clam shells became more oppresive, until we were accompanied by great swarms of flies. We had been without sugar for about two weeks, so decided to adopt the somewhat novel idea of utilising black treacle. It certainly imparted a sweetness to the tea, but it was soon abandoned in favour of boiled sweets. At each meal a handful of sweets was doled out in lieu of sugar, but peppermint or aniseed somewhat detracted from the pleasure of the tea. A Large “Shark.” Early that afternoon a light wind came puffing over the Timor Sea, and although it gave us but four knots, yet it was a step in the right direction. We anchored that night in fifteen fathoms, and put out our usual collection of shark hooks. Just before dawn the party were awakened by the crew calling, and it was found that on& of the shark hooks was stretched taut in the water. We all grasped it and commenced heaving away, and from the resistance put up by that shark, he must have been a monster. Like a dead weight we pulled in, but it was necessary to obtain reinforcements, so we requisitioned the crew until there were twelve of us pulling in that solitary ; shark line. Slowly it came up and ex- . citement was fever pitch. One of us seized a rifle, to give the monster his quietus, as with perspiration standing on our brows, we pulled in that line. Only four feet to go. In it came slowly and slowly, until, to our great horror, appeared the top of our mud covered anchor. We had pulled up fifteen fathoms of perfectly good anchor. We got a good wind later that day and put up a wonderful run, striking the mainland at a pretty little l bay. All went ashore with a small net, and dragged part of the bay, securing some wonderful stingra}”, and quite a number of edible fish. The stingray wqre a good size, measuring nearly six feet. Our net was ruined by a big shark | going right through it. It was blowing strongly when the sail was hoisted, and the vessel fairly flew along, lying right over, with water coming half-way up the deck. We made our record run with that south-easterly. Rounding Swan Point the vessel came to an anchorage at Cape Lcveque shortly after 3 p.m. There were large numbers of curlew ashore, and quite a number were shot while some of us gathered a number of sponges that were lying about. The beach was literally alive with small crabs that were quite the quickest we had ( ever seen. They could rim so quickly that they easily eluded us, and even a dog that was on the beach, belonging to a native, had great difficulty in catching them. Civilisation Again ! The vessel left Lcveque early the following morning, on the final run to Broome, and all noted how quickly the contour of the land changed. From rugged rocks and cliffs, the coast gave way to white sand, which looked delightful with a big surf rolling in. It was hoped to have made Broome the following day, but again calms prevailed, and late that, day we passed a steamer sailing to Singapore, our first sight of civilisation in the guise of a modern steamer. The vessel arrived in Broome early

in the morning, and a bronzed but hap- * Py party trudged ashore and along . to the Governor Broome Hotel. Wc were back at last in civilisation, and although that civilisation represented : but Broome, yet to us it was the most : wondrous city our eyes had seen for many long weeks. Never did water look so inviting as that which flowed through the taps, and it was a novelty : having it so near at hand without hav- [ ing to dig for it, or guarding it as we guarded it through those many weeks of tropica! sun. It was comforting to lie at night without fear of reef and rock. The boom of breakers on uncharted reef was dispelled by the sound of motor horn, and we rested content that we were back once more where a white man was no novelty and where we could walk the broad streets in comfort in place of mountainous passes and tide-swept reef. Upon our arrival in Broome it was foupd that the Brambra, in which the party were to have proceeded to Carnarvpn, had been delayed and it would have necessitated our remaining in Broome for at least ten days. Fortunately it was learnt that the oil steamer Centaur was passing Broome the following night, so the vessel was wirelessed and it was arranged for her to take us and our luggage on board at sea. Most of our heavy baggage, including the nets, was still on board the lugger, so the party proceeded on board shortly before 10 p.m. and sailed to Entrance Harbour, where the Centaur was to meet us. It was a very dark night and there was a fair sea running, so the prospect of boarding a steamer at sea with over two tons of baggage and specimens was not very appealing. Embarkation. The Centaur was sighted steaming along, and a message was flashed to . indicate our position, while we waited ! for her to slow down. Sailing close to ' a vessel at sea on a dark night is a difficult business, and three times our vessel circled her, whilst they attempted to get a line to us. Finally a line was got abroad, after we had all but crashed in to her in N the darkness, owing to the big vessel swinging round on us on the tide, and our boat made fast with fenders out. The captain and officers of the Centaur showed us the greatest courtesy, and had our baggage hoisted up on the derricks in very little time. Our unusual method of embarkation was watched with considerable interest by members of the State Government. including the Minister for Public Works who was travelling by her. It took two hours to get every- ! thing on board, and it was then neces- ' sary to make our way aboard by means of a rope ladder that swung as the vessel rolled, and all but precipitated us into the water. The Centaur immediately got under way and our party enjoyed the comforts of civilisation,, as only those who have been isolated from it know how. The following day the vessel ran into heavy weather and commenced to pitch in a very severe manner, and although most of the passengers found it necessary to retire to their cabins and seek the solace of “strawberry boxes” we were so well used to the sea as to scorn their sudden exits, and braved the elements like seasoned . sailors. Dangerous Berthing. It was raining- a thin drizzle when Carnarvon hove in sight, while a big swell made the berthing of the Centaur a matter of some difficulty. Despite the fact that there were over six stout hawsers out from the ship to the wharf, these kept breaking until the vessel would swing out, and be carried back to the wharf with a resounding bang, that threatened to carry the whole structure away. Chief officer and second officer blew whistles and yelled unintelligible Malay to scurrying natives, while new rope springs were attached. Dangerous Berthing. It was raining a thin drizzle when Carnarvon hove into sight while a big swell made the berthing of the Cen taur a matter of some difficulty. Despite the fact that there were over six stout hawsers out from the ship to the wharf these kept breaking until the vessel would swing out, and be carried back to the wharf with a resounding bang, that threatened to carry ' the whole structure away. Chief officer and second officer blew whistles and veiled unintelligible Malay to scurrying natives, while new rope springs were attached. The vessel was plunging at the wharf like a fresh horse;

there were eight six inch ropes out, and every moment it looked as though the big vessel would break away, but fortunately they held, and then came the disembarkation as Chinese stewards carried bags and suit cases down the swaying gangwayThrough all this scurry and bustle, the member/ of our party made a descent down the precarious gangway, which by now had been badly damaged by coming into violent contact between the ship and the wharf. At moments we would be eight feet from the wharf, so that it was a case of jump when the best opportunity offered.

After a great deal of trouble in landing our nets, specimen tanks, movie cameras and some two tons of other gear, we managed to find a seat in the diminutive train at the ■wharf, to thg thriving township of Carnarvon.

Accommodation was found for us in the leading hotel and all retired grimy but happy. The following morning a number of leading Australian residents -who had proceeded to Carnarvon joined our party. Amongst them was Mr Campion, son of the Governor General of Western Australia. The party were mustered into big touring cars and after our provisions were safely stowed away on a baggage truck, we left Carnarvon in a cloud of dust and good wishes for Point Cloates some 230 miles up north. The country was very sparse and drab; feed seemed a negligible quantity. while the stock that was passed seemed very emaciated. How they managed to survive upon the poor country was a marvel to us, yet they seemed plentiful enough.

The vast size of Australia is soon brought home to one, when driving over miles of inland country. Many stations boasted an area of three-quar-ters of a million acres, and one station visited had a horse paddock of 25,000 acres alone. To connect up one station by telephone cost its owner £SOO. . .

Marvellous Radio! After seemingly endless miles of travel. Minilya Station was reached, an oasis in a desert of drab flat country, and it was indeed a surprise to find in this outpost of Australia, in the midst of desert country, orange groves, lemon trees, a wireless plant, electric light, and blood stock that would have vied with our cities. How the owner managed to find room for us all was a mystery, for we were over t wen tv-five strong, yet there seemed to be beds to spare- A happy party spent an enjoyable evening listening to a thin piping voice announcing radio music from Melbourne. . . . Melbourne ! That seemed countless miles away, and to us the centre of civilisation. It seemed strange to be seated in the centres of north-west Australia, listening to music played miles away. From Minilya the party proceeded to Ningaloo, past the big salt lakes, the cars running well over the sandy country. Out on the plains our cars made a somewhat imposing procession, four motor-cars and two heavy motor trucks, all* stacked high with provisions, bedding, cooking utensils, nets, etc. The country was literally alive with game, emus, turkeys and many varieites of kangaroo. Towards evening time working towards the coast, the kangaroos came down from the hills in their thousands—great big

red boomers, standing well over six feet. Camel Transport. The rainfall at this part of Australia is very light, but a heavv dew compensates. Fortunatel" the oarty were provided with waterproof rugs. Arrangements for transport were carried out without a hitch and on reaching the heavy sandy country near the coast the members of the party utilised camel teams that had been sent ahead. They were hitched to waggons with our luggage piled high; they worked through the fine loose sand making about two to three miles an hour. The camel has certainly solved the big problem of transport in the remote parts of Australia, where other methods of transport have failed. After many weary miles march over the sand dunes the party reached Point Cloates, where extensive whaling operations are carried out by the Norwegian Bay Whaling Company. Whaling at Point Cloates. Whaling is extensively carried out at Point Cloates. and although the season only lasts for six months, yet the catch last year totalled 670 whales. The whales found in this part of Australia are the humpback, and they generally average about 40 to 50 tons. Through the kindness of the manager the party were taken over the whole of the plant, and went out to sea on the whaling vessels. At about July and August, the whales work northwards, and return with their calves, being harpooned close to the reef, where they endeavour to free themselves from the barnacles by rubbing themselves on the reefs. Captain Olsen, who was in charge of the»Fram, one of the whaling vessels, has the distinction of being the world’s champion harpoonist, and the party spent an exciting day witnessing the chase and death of quite a number of whales. The modern whaling vessels are equipped with a harpoon gun placed on a raised platform. behind which the harpoonist stands. A telephone connected with the engine room enables him to convey directions, which he receives from the look-out man in the crow’s nest. As soon as a whale is sighted, the vessel steams at full speed, and although the whale endeavours to elude it by diving and reappearing some hundreds of yards away, yet they rarely escape. On the occasion of our visit, Mr Olsen gave an excellent exhibition of harpooning. We sighted a whale about a quarter of a mile away,, and by careful manipulation of the vessel, got within sixty-five yards of it. The distance was considerable for firing the harpoon, which itself weighs over one hundredweight. With his gun trained on the whale, the helmsman steadied the boat and with a deafening report the harpoon was discharged. We could see it hurtling through the air, and saw it strike the whale. Modern harpoons are fitted with an explosive head, which bursts four seconds after entering the whale, killing it almost instantly. A whale rarely drags the vessel over the water as is commonly imagined. Sharks Attack Whale. As soon as the whale was harpooned it came to the surface and started blowing, throwing up great quantities of blood, which soon attracted dozens of tiger sharks. From all directions they came, leaping on to the unfortunate whale, tearing great pieces out of it. In order to give the whale its quietus, a second harpoon was fired, and it was soon brought alongside. The sharks attacked the whale even when alongside the vessel, and we secured some remarkable moving pictures of the thrilling spectacle. The humpback whale is the only one of the whale family that makes a sound, and its snorting and bellowing was verj* terrifying as it plunged about in its flurry. Two whales were secured and taken shore wards, where a smaller vessel conveyed them nearer. Finally a small launch took them direct to the landing stage where they were cut up. It takes but twenty minutes to cut up a whale, and the whole carcase is utilised- The blubber is melted down into oil, the average yield being about 4$ tons, and the oil is then conveyed into huge tanks, preparatory to being shipped to England by the company’s own vessel The bones of the whale are ground up and made into fertiliser, but the whalebone no longer finds a market, modern fashions having outgrown this old time necessity.

The party spent over a week at Point Cloates, and caught many fine fish, one groper being over seven feet long. Sharks are very thick at Point Cloates, and it is said that they can entirely consume a whale in about twenty minutes. From Point Cloates. the party worked back to Carnarvon, where they split up, some going overland and the others by boat preparatory to returning to New Zealand.