Dresses of the Week

Star (Christchurch), Issue 18008, 19 November 1926, Page 12

Dresses of the Week

Written by

"STELLA"

It’s never too early in the year to think of holiday clothes, for even if you’re taking a holiday late, preparing early is all to the good—besides apart from official holidays, every summer brings its holiday occasions—its weekends, its days in the country which nobody can enjoy to the full unless they’re properly equipped. The latest in sports kit, as practical by the way, as it is smart and becoming, consists of a pleated skirt of crepe de chine, or some other silky material, and a matching jumper of fine wool stockinette, trimmed usually in the form of binding with the fabric of which the skirt is made. These jumpers and skirts are seen in white and every colour ranging from pale shades to black. The holiday spirit never manifests itself more vigorously than it does in jumpers. A jumper that’s new and fresh will carry most suits along with it. The newest models have collars, many of them have long sleeves; and a tie, drawn through slots in front, often provides a smart finish. Printed fabrics, especially in crepe, either of the silk or cotton variety, are on the whole more fashionable than plain ones. •

A word here to the holiday makers. Be sure to choos'c, whether for suits or frocks or jumpers, fabrics that don’t crush and get messy. You may be far from an iron and a consciousness of creases can spoil many a journey or long day out. Wool stockinette, light weight repp, sponge cloth, silk bouclette, carried out in light colours are as cool and summery as anyone could wish; and, of course" artificial silk and all the silky washing fabrics are ideal for holiday wear.

It may sound gloomy, but many a holiday that would otherwise have been successful has been spoiled for lack of a smart wrap! There’s no excuse for this nowadays, when these are as pretty as frocks and made in an endless variety of styles. Of course the very smartest thing at the moment is the double-breasted shape, cut on masculine lines, and moulded closelv to the figure, with the slightest of ilares towards the hem. For slim people only though!

To have a patterned dress is tjie latest thing, undoubtedly. If the silk itself is not patterned, then its trimming is. And another thing, no dress is made up of one material only. There are always two. One to trim with, and the other to be the dress. Take, for instance, any uniform colour in' crepe de chine, quite plain, and trim it with another crepe de chine which

is all flower}'. The exception to this rule of two materials is when the material itself has a gay patterned border. This takes the place of the second material.

It is very important to have a pattern which is becoming. There may be no great flaring patterns such as were worn in the favourite cretonne dresses of a year or two back. No, the silk patterns are discreet, though bright. Some are inspired from Eastern carpets, pictures nad mosaics. Others are cubistic and. again, there are lovely flower patterns—borders of spring tulips, roses, wild flowers. Too lovely for words.

What about styles? They are as bright as the materials. Short skirts, flowing draperies, slim bodices which follow the lines of the figure, and very decorative sleeves. The sleeve is of vast importance, let me tell you. There are long sleeves, short sleeves, and no sleeves at all. Many a dress gets its style from its sleeves. There are tight sleeves to the wrist, where thev are finished off with pretty cuffs, ribbon ties, frills, and all sorts of clever little devices. Again there are tight sleeves to the elbow, from whence they widen into the Chinese cuff, which falls away from the wrist to a point. The cuff must be in a different material from the rest of the sleeve, and must have a lining as it shows when the cuff widens. Then there is the long bishop sleeve. This is unlined, of course, and is caught into the wrist with a band and a button or ribbons. In soft materials the bishop sleeve is verv effective, but it does not. look well "in anything substantial. In short sleeves there is the Marie Antoinette, tight to the elbow and with long frills. There is also the puffed sleeve, and there is the wing sleeve for evening dresses. A butterfly sleeve for evening, too, and some times just straps across the top of the arm. But most evening dresses have no sleeves at all.

Evening skirts are of all lengths, generally uneven—one can’t make any rule about them. But skirt lengths for daytime are just the same. I have heard people say they are “longer” because they don t show the knee, to which I reply that on well-dressed women they never did! They have never been really smart unless they quite covered the knee-joint, with an inch or two to spare, when the wearer stood still, at all events, and that is just what they do now. Speaking of pres-ent-day skirts, they are certainly much more artistic than the half-wav ones between the knee and ankle, because one should, if possible, never cut across the lines of the body, except tv here

there is naturally a joint; skirts, therefore, should reach either the knee or the ankle; sleeves should either just cover the wrist or the elbdw, or not exist at all. I think there is a good deal in this statement, and if it’s a choice between knee and ankle length draperies to run for trams in, I’m for the knees ervery single time. A particularly smart tennis coat of cream frieze which was worn at a recent tennis afternoon by an Avonside girl was enhanced by its multi-colour-ed striped border, used at the hem, cuffs and collar. This was worn over a plain silk frock, made with a straight bodice and a finely kilted skirt, which although giving the necessary width for comfort hung straight, giving a slimming effect to its pretty wearer. Rose patterned crepe de chin© was used for a dainty afternoon frock by a young girl whose engagement has recently been announced. The design was not closely used but placed at intervals in shades of dull green aud blue. The bodice was plain with a turn over collar and long fitting sleeves, and the slight fulness at the sides was topped by quaint patchwork pocket* folding over the narrow leather belt. A frock of figured georgette, featuring long open sleeves and front neck opening was favoured by a Timaru visitor who is at present visiting friends in Opawa. The skirt frill was “shirred” from side to side across the back and left the front panel quite straight from the neck. A turn over collar buttoned to the neck was bound with the material and the long sleeved cuffs were finished in the same way. Striped fugis are as popular—or perhaps more so—as ever they were, and are seen in many smart designs and colourings. One I saw yesterday while waiting in the Square, was made up in mauve, pink and blue on a deep fawn ground. The frock hung from th© shoulders where it was slightly eased into a yoke, and at the hem was slightly flared. The belt was run through wide slots, and the turn down collar was finished with a long narrow buttoned panel piece down the centre of the bodice, and its pleated frill of plain lawn gave it an added smartness A multi-coloured spotted crepe de chine was an effective toilette I noticed while shopping vesterdav. The sleeves were just above the elbow and turned back with a wide cuff. The collar was of plain silk arfd a knotted tie of the spotted material was the only bodice trimming, and a slight fullness in front was given by a slight gathering, on the shoulders. Pleated side panels on the skirt gave fullness and a pocket was placed at each side above the top pleatings.