Dresses of the Week

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17906, 23 July 1926, Page 14

Dresses of the Week

Written by

“ STELLA ."

If there were any doubt at the beginning of the winter that the coat and skirt would hold their own this is by now completely dispelled, or should be when one reads of the coming popularity of them for spring wear. It is true that the skirt is sometimes a dress, and that the blouse is often a sweater or a waist-coat. But the short coat covering the hips and the skirt that is pleated or plaid or checked or striped or all three, must have at least one place in every fashionable wardrobe. On the whole, morning suits will take their note from the kind of neck worn with them. The stock-collar or the high turned-down collar demands the tailored coat, fastened with one button and with its corners rounded off. It is generally of plain material with slashed pockets, and is worn with a checked skirt. Its only adornment to be perhaps a button-hole, consisting of a stiff flower such as a camelia. Where the turned-down collar and tie are used, the coat has two or three buttons, is a little looser in cut, and has patch pockets or pockets that are well marked with stitching or buttons. This also must have a skirt of different material which may be striped or checked, but must be several j tones lighter than the coat. Sometimes a sweater is worn with the blouse, almost concealing it, and of a different pattern from, but toning in, with the skirt. Striped skirts are more often gathered than pleated, for obvious reasons. When the neck is low, the coats tend to be rather more elaborate. The Jow neck and V opening are filled in variously with a low-necked blouse, decorated perhaps with a few buttons down one side, with a fold-over blouse or waist-coat, or with becoming white , frills which edge the A’. The coats hardly pull in at the natural waist, but they appear to do so, whether because of the. stitching, which may curve in from the sides, or the belt that may be stitched lightly on to the coat, or because of the insertion of tight pleats on the hips. It is this suggestion of a waist and a lavish use of button decorations which give them a rather more dressed appearance. The coat is often of plain material, while the skirt, which is of exactly the same tone, may be covered with rather faint large squares in a slightlv deeper tone. Still more dressed is the morning suit, which may consist of a rather straight coat with buttons, tip to the chin, by means of a narrow white

waist-coat, reaching from chin to the natural waist-line. The collar of the covet-coating may be made of the same white linen as the waist-coat, and tie with a black velvet bow. The dress subject really grows more and more interesting and exciting every day. It is generally believed—one , reads and hears it on all sides—that I the coming season will be a momentous j one from the dressmaking point of view. It is evident that there will be more variety, alike in line and expression, while in the matter of colour there is a vast deal that is new; and, again, there are many revivals, such as maroon, wine reds, and purple shades. There is every promise, too, of a colourful season, and also' a season of patterned materials, the latter being equally prevalent in wool stuffs, silks and knitted wear. • j Trimmings of every description are especially arresting, and, like embroideries. are inclined to be bold and highly decorative. A" great future is predicted for the newest laces, which have leather suede and felt either appliqued or woven in with net or shaded tissues. The latest dress fashions say that their like has never been seen before, and I read that only a personal inspection can do them justice, when a mere glance reveals their great possibility, and the entirely different aspect they will bring to bear on dress of every description. A brilliant idea, too. is the godets now to be bought ready-made to affix into any skirt. Although widely prophesied for da 3*time wear, the bolero has found very little favour. This coming spring will show a removable jacket shaped on bolero lines, which will certainly enjoy a vogue on account of its practical outlook on life. Probably the death- ■ knell of the original revival- was the short, cut-in-two effect, so distasteful to most of us after long, slinky lines. The new version is a compromise. It fastens over at the. neck as formerly, but it is longer, and in many cases ties in front or at one side. A matching material was once considered essential, but nowadays a crepe bolero will accompany a velours dress. Chiffon boleros will be another smart whim for wear with fluffy evening dresses, while all the new designs succumb to the liking for long sleeves. The hostess at a wedding reception early in the week looked most attractive in a becoming gown of black crepe touraine, which was cut on long.

straight lines from the shoulders, an!S the frock was brightened by Chinese embroideries which trimmed the whole front panel in shades of gold, blue and green. A wide band of the embroid* ery also trimmed the skirt hem at the back, and her smart black hat, with the brim upturned in front, was light* ly trimmed with gold. A pretty, fair bride, well known td a wide circle of friends, attended a most important function during the week and wore a model frock of fine navy-blue repp cloth. The frock waa made straight from the shoulders at the back and formed two wide boxpleats, and the front skirt was formed of narrow box-pleats, the bodice waa made with a coatee effect and fell loose at the low waist-line, opening over a vestee of very finely pleated georgette of biskra shade. The long sleeves were wide at the wrist, and were finished with an inlet band of the pleated biskra georgette. Her hat of Bangkok straw, in the same shade as the georgette, was trimmed with a wide corded ribbon. A most distinctive business frock was worn by a smart, fair' girl who is often seen hurrying along Hereford Street. Her frock was most serviceable as well as attractive. The material used was stone-grey cashmere cloth, ' and was most appropriate for the style used. The dress was made on straight lines and flared at the hem with a becoming, care-free simplicity, and had no superfluous decorations. The collar, cuffs and buttons, which reached from neck to hem, were in bois de rose cloth. Black velvet, with its jirepossessing charm, was brought into service for a best-occasion frock, and worn by a young matron living in Merivale. It favoured the latest design, and did it full justice. It had sleeves to the wrist, and was made on long lines, and the novel introduction of an inverted pleat in the centre front was most effective, and gave almost a coat effect, as the sides were flared. The long, pointed collar and vest were of cherry-red crepe de chine, and terminated at the lov* waist-line with a large buckle. Checked and plain Kasha co-operate pleasingly to give us many an attractive ensemble suit. The one I saw at an afternoon party yesterday was very attractive. The colour combination was oatmeal, beige and admiral blue, the last colour predominating as the selected shade for the plain material.